Print Dad

Hi Mike, I just sent you a PM - -I am very interested THANKS - -Jim

Hello All, Well I replaced the thermostat TWICE LOL I had a 190 in the garage and today bought a 180. Somehow I installed the 190 instead of the new 180. The thermostat that was in the motor was a 195. I started the car and let idle. I watched when the thermostat opened and the radiator fluid was flowing REAL WELL - - but looks merky. I most likely should have flushed the radiator I have a bottle of flush, BUT was hoping the new thermostat would help/cure the issue. Well after sitting at idle for about 15 minutes the gauge was reading pretty hot. NOt quite as high was before BUT still was around the right side of the "M" in temp. I kinda am hoping if I take it for a ride - -he may cool off a little more. Looking into the radiator - -I can tell it should be professionaly flushed at a radiator shop. I MAY go that route next or a MAY just go for a new radiator. I DID NOT have the thermal gun today - -but the radiator feels about the same TEMP at all spots. Not sure where I stand now. I will also get a gauge and see exactly what temp it is running. FOr a quick test - -can I use the same sender that I am using on the factory gauges???? I sure would like to get past this. The car is running GREAT - -the OIL looks real real clean and NO signs of foam or anything on the stick. I need to figure out what I am dealing with. Like I said - may take her out for a drive and see if the moving air helps. LAstly - -I blew out the FINS on the radiator to see if that would help. SO some progress BUT still not satisfied yet Thanks fro hanging with me on this Jim

Hello ALL, I had to go out and check the thermostat. I am GLAD I found it does have the restrictor plate under it. The thermostat I took out - seems to be OK BUT of course I am going to swap it out. The one in there is the correct style for the C but it is a 195 and I would like to drop down to a 180. Not sure what brand it was BUT said "303-403 195. I am going to the parts store and see what they have available. Thanks to the link from Wycked69 I can just call and see if they have the part. I know the thermostat needs to be tested BUT from looking at it - it appears to be working and was NOT stuck - -I was wishing it was LOL THANKS all and I'll post my progress Jim

Hello All, THANKS for all the info. I should have included a little more info in my first post BUT getting OLD and loosing a little umph. dennyb68 - -You bring up a great point about the restrictor plate. To be honest the last time I swapped out the thermostat - -I think about 4 years ago - -i DON"T THINK the restrictor was in the block. This could be part of the issue. How does the restrictor plate get held in place? OR is it just drop in? I need to remove the neck and see if the plate is there. THANKS buening - - I am running a 24 inch radiator Ford - (Previous owner had installed). Yes I am running a mechanical fan - - I am using a thermal clutching fan (just replaced the clutch) and running a 7 blade fan. I have had this set up for the last 5 years and just started having and issue last year. The temp seems to climb pretty quickly after start-up and DOES NOT go down. At first I thought it was a gauge issue - BUT now - -no - the temp gauge (factory original) gets almost pegged and stays there. Even driving on the highway it stay HOT. I plan to check a few things like circulation and clean the fins on the radiator and of course swap the thermostat. dennyb68 - -I understand what you are telling me. I gotta check for the plate. I don't know how the plate is held in place, BUT I am fairly certain my motor does not have the plate under the stat Mach1Rider - I forget what thermostat I installed years ago. I will check when I pull it. I am going to check the coolant flow - BUT not certain what is happening there. I DO NOT think the restrictor plate is under the stat. I know the stat in there will be stamped so I'll check it out Wycked69 - Thanks for noticing me on the other forum. I would like to think I know a little about classics. Yes the radiator although OLD is in pretty good shape and did have a good circulation - -I will check that today. Thanks for the helpful attachment - -nice to have numbers. I am VERY curious now - becuase if I recall back when I first swapped the stat - I don't think the restrictor plate was there. I think people told me that it was NOT needed at that time and I think I MAY have ignored the fact that it was missing. I am VERY CURIOUS how the restrictor plate is held in place in the block. Is it something that just presses in or is it kinda held in place after the thermostat is installed. Damn - I gotta go out in the garage now and check this out. Will post in a little bit about the restrictor. THANKS ALL - -I must admit I am loosing my confidence in wrenching on the car and I sure would like to resolve this issue THANKS so MUCH to everyone Jim

Hello All, My newest issue started awhile ago. The temp gauge reads high and pretty quickly. It goes to just about pegged on HOT. I have done a few things hoping to help. I thought this was a gauge issue - -BUT now I am thinking it is what the motor is running. I am looking for a few thoughts on this. I just replaced my "thermal clutch fan" no change Today I checked things with a thermal gun and the radiator seems fine - -but running close to 195 in all areas. This is just with the thermal gun. I changed the sending unit My OIL pressure gauge had seemed to be running high for a few times BUT now seems to be working fine. So I am thinking I will swap the thermostat to a 180 - -I think I am running a 195 now - -BUT I can't recall - -about 3 years old. The car is running HOT for sure BUT never pukes out the overflow. Many people tell me to swap the thermostat - -and I will - BUT I would think once the thermostat is open - -it is open. Thoughts on this? I am running a shroud. I think I will flush the system and replace the antifreeze (50/50 mix. Seems like after the thermo swap - -I may be looking at a water-pump. EVerything on the motor is stock with the exception of Morroso "tall" chrome covers. I Was just wanting a few opinions on where I should head next. The radiator is stock BUT seems to have good flow and NO blockages according to the thermal gun. Please offer a few thoughts - -THANKS Print Dad Oh yeah - -do they make more than 1 sending unit for a Clev? Just wondering. THANKS - Jim

Hello Mike, Yes that is the part I am looking for. I sure HOPe I don't have to spend that kind of money - -just starting my search at least I know what the part looks like. THANKS as always - - -I hope you get a chance to view my next post. I would be interested in your thoughts. Print Dad

Hello All, I am sorry to be posting this becuase I already have a thread going BUT - I sure would like to learn a little more about this part. Thanks so much to a GREAT responder in Austrailia (jandj1970), I now know what I looking for. I am looking for the part that attaches the light to the radiator support bracket. I am enclosing HIS picture to show the part I need. I also could use a little more info - - 1. - What is the part called 2. - Does anyone know who makes them or if they are even available? I know this is a small issue - -BUT - I sure would like to fix this. Looking on the "net" I only see the bracket that attaches to the radiator support BUT NOT the part that surrounds the light itself. My lights do work and look normal from the front BUT the bracket is just missing. Any more thoughts? I sure would appreciate it- - Thanks Print Dad - -the old guy

Hello jandj1970, THANKS so much for the GREAT pictures. Yes this is indeed the part I am missing. I have been looking for something BUt I was NOT sure what the part even looked like. This is a GREAT help - -thanks a million. Now the trouble - - I have NOT seen this part in any catalogs and DO NOT know what the piece is called. When I look in local parts suppliers etc - -they show the bracket - -that attaches to the radiator support - -BUt I have never seen this "other part". I have a feeling they don't re-pop it - - I am hoping somene can she a little more info - -such as what it is called and hopefully where I can get 2. Thanks again - this is a GREAT help and I may even try posting again now that I know what I am looking for. THANKS - - - Print DAd (Jim)

Hello All, Doing a little cleaning on our 70Mach and noticed something is not right with the bracket for the Sports Lamps. I think the car was hit in the nose prior to us getting it. So I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to take a picture of the back of the sports lamp and how the bracket is supposed to look. On ours - there is a bracket that comes off the radiator support? and heads front to the sports lamp BUT it is not connected to the lamp housing. Thanks in advance - -if possible Print Dad I see these brackets at MU and they look like what is coming off my radiator support BUT I am not sure how they are supposed to attach to the back or bottom of the sports lamps. This is what my brackets look like BUT they don't touch the sports lamp http://www.google.com/search?q=70+Mustang+sports+lamp+brackets&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.50165853,d.dmg,pv.xjs.s.en_US.seW1cfrvSKg.O&biw=1512&bih=918&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=Q9n9UZmrEpOo4AOLhIGIAg#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=lcXowiD5VdcJKM%3A%3BWQMIn15gVhVY6M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mustangsunlimited.com%252FProdImages%252FSLB70-C.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mustangsunlimited.com%252Fitemdy01.asp%253FT1%253DSLB70%252B01%2526Category%253DLighting%2526subCategory%253DFog%252BLights%2526SubSubCategory%253DHardware%252B%252526%252BAccessories%2526CatKey%253DEMUSTANG%3B500%3B473 Any help greatly appreciated on this little project - -P. Dad

Hello TexasEd, Before I add a few comments I wanted to say "NICE POST" to jholmes217 - - well written and VERY detailed Well DONE. I would like to offer a couple of TIPS from an old timer that MAY help a little more. I am certain the members will understand what I write and MAy consider it a little overkill - - My suggestions - - in addition to the great advice already given 1. - Make certain to cover the distributor hole (opening) with some masking tape of gently put a rag in the opening -you don't want anything to fall into the motor. 2. - since you are somewhat "new" to installing the intake - -I would advise removing the valve covers first. The tops of the valve covers MAy get in your way if you don't angle the intake in correct 3. - This is the OVERKILL part - -But what I often suggest to "newbies" is to go to your local hardware store and purchase 2 bolts abouut 3 inchs long. Must get the same thread size as the intake bolts. Now you cut the "heads" off the 2 bolts. Just prior to the actual install - - I would put one screw in the motor where the intake is going to sit - ancd the other bolt in the rear on the opposite side. So let's say you put a "BOLT" in the driver front (intake bolt hole) then a bolt in the pass side rear of the intake. Just gently put the "bolts" into the motor and ONLY finger tighten enough so they are not loose. PLEASE - -follow the advice of the responders as far as DRY fitting etc. The bolts I speak of - -will act as a guide when you go to actaully set the intake in place. The cast iron intakes are a little heavy and could be a little tricky to line up just right. with the BOLTS - - you will be in perfect postion. Once the intake is set down - -insert several of the intake bolts and once a few are started -you remove the BOLTS and put in the correct intake bolts. There is a tightening sequence that needs to be followed and can be easily found with a quick search. also - -when you do torque down the intake - I like to torque down in three steps. so let's say the first time I torque - -I take all the bolts down to say 10 ft/lbs I do that working from the center out in a criss cross fashion (the sequence) then I go around and take them all down to say 14. I think you have been given GREAT advice BUt I only wanted to ass about the "Bolts" cause it kinda makes it ALMOST foolproof. Print Dad

Hello Suullio, One of the biggest mistakes people make when selecting a carb is thinking bigger is better. On a stock motor I think you would have much better results with this. http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-80570K/10002/-1?parentProductId=749689 I know it may sound small - -BUT the car will perform very well with this carb in my opinion. Print Dad

Hello Suullio, One of the biggest mistakes people make when selecting a carb is thinking bigger is better. On a stock motor I think you would have much better results with this. http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-80570K/10002/-1?parentProductId=749689 I know it may sound small - -BUT the car will perform very well with this carb in my opinion. Print Dad

Hello All, Once again I find that I posted incorrect info. The arm is supposed to fit UNDER the eccentric. Nice catch buening and of course you are right about this. Pernpaul - - you should not have to worry about the position of the arm if the motor is in the correct position. What I mean is - -after you pull the OLD pump out and clean the mounting surface - -just place the new pump in the opening - - -if the NEW PUMP does not sit flush with the Housing cover, then pull the pump out, rotate the motor and try to re-install. See if it sits flush at that point. It should. The eccenric is an egg shaped circle that will push DOWN on the arm at the proper time. Sometimes the arm is hitting the arm in a downward position and that requires you to pull the fuel pump in (because) the eccentric is trying to get the pump in the proper position. To eliminate any guess work - - see if the pump sits FLUSH to the motor by hand. If it does - - install the bolts and you are good to go. Sorry about the error - -I think sometimes the old brain freezes. I WILL be more carefull in the future Print Dad

Hello All, Once again I find that I posted incorrect info. The arm is supposed to fit UNDER the eccentric. Nice catch buening and of course you are right about this. Pernpaul - - you should not have to worry about the position of the arm if the motor is in the correct position. What I mean is - -after you pull the OLD pump out and clean the mounting surface - -just place the new pump in the opening - - -if the NEW PUMP does not sit flush with the Housing cover, then pull the pump out, rotate the motor and try to re-install. See if it sits flush at that point. It should. The eccenric is an egg shaped circle that will push DOWN on the arm at the proper time. Sometimes the arm is hitting the arm in a downward position and that requires you to pull the fuel pump in (because) the eccentric is trying to get the pump in the proper position. To eliminate any guess work - - see if the pump sits FLUSH to the motor by hand. If it does - - install the bolts and you are good to go. Sorry about the error - -I think sometimes the old brain freezes. I WILL be more carefull in the future Print Dad

Hello Permpaul, FIRST - -Thanks for your service to our country. Always great to hear from our millitay people. I know you have experience in wrenching BUt it is possible to put the pump in with the arm BELOW the eccentric? The arm is supposed to ride on top of the eccentric. The only way to tell is to pull the pump and re-install making sure the arm is pointing upward as you install so that it goes on the top of the ecentric. If you are pulling the PUMP again - -(may have to) you could pump the arm by hand and see if you feel pressure on the outlet side. double check the fuel lines to be sure you are using Inlet as in. lastly - it is possible you have gotten a BAD pump. Quality control is NOT too good these days. Hope this helps and BE SAFE Print Dad

Hello Permpaul, FIRST - -Thanks for your service to our country. Always great to hear from our millitay people. I know you have experience in wrenching BUt it is possible to put the pump in with the arm BELOW the eccentric? The arm is supposed to ride on top of the eccentric. The only way to tell is to pull the pump and re-install making sure the arm is pointing upward as you install so that it goes on the top of the ecentric. If you are pulling the PUMP again - -(may have to) you could pump the arm by hand and see if you feel pressure on the outlet side. double check the fuel lines to be sure you are using Inlet as in. lastly - it is possible you have gotten a BAD pump. Quality control is NOT too good these days. Hope this helps and BE SAFE Print Dad

Hello 1969mustang, Recently replaced my speakers in the package tray. I got a set from Mustangs Unlimited. I must admit - not too crazy about the new grille BUT I used my old ones. These speakers fit well BUT I am still listening to 8-tracks so you likely will not get a HUGE sound from them. One other thought -back in the day - -many people had speakers that sat on top of the package tray - -I never really liked the look. Just one guys thoughts Print Dad

Hello 1957pistol, Just wanted to submit an idea and some thoughts. I am waiting to get a dash pad for our Mach. I know that for most of us - money is tight and $300 is still a LOT of money and can be used in other areas of the car. What I did was to get a vinyl repair kit and made a temp repair to our old dash pad. The repair kit comes with a powder filler, and small heat element that looks like a soldering iron, and some papers to put in grain look. Works pretty well if you take your time. The repair kit is NOT better than a new dash pad - BUT it does look a little better than a cover. One of these days I'll get the $$ for a new pad - till then - for about $22.00 the kit seems to have done a DECENT job on our cruiser. Good luck Print Dad

Hello PxDnNinja, First - a little info for you - -on a car with an automatic, the "flywheel"is actually called a "FLEX plate". They are similar but different. On a standard shift vehicle the flywheel is solid and the clutch, pressure plate etc make the connection to move the car. On an automatic - -the torque convertor takes the place of the clutch assembly. I hope this makes a little sense. I doubt the flex plate is the issue BUT it could be. Before doing much, I would first check the transmission fluid to be certain the level is UP on the stick or the car will not move. Now - - we need a little more info from you. I take it that the car will start BUt just not move. Is this correct? What do you hear or feel when you shift the car into drive or reverse? Try to describe that happens when you shift. NEXT - - if you SAFELY jack the car up and put the front on jack stands, you can look under the "inspection cover". so where is this cover? - -if you follow the oil pan to the rear of the motor - -you will see another large cover attached to the back of the motor. ON the bottom of this shield is a cover . So the isnpection cover I talk about is between the motor and trani. Anyway - the inspection cover has 4 small bolts that hold it in place. There are 2 on the bottom and 2 up a little higher. The inspection cover is about 14" wide and thing metal. If you remove the cover - you will be able to see part of the flex plate. You MAY be able to see cracks in the flex plate - -BUT more likely the trouble is in the torque convertor or trani pump. We need a little more info to be able to help more. It may help to know what size motor you have such as a 6 cyl or a V-8 like a 289 or larger. Hang in there and DO NOT just pull things apart till you are certain what the issue is. Be well - -work SAFE - -Print dad

Hello Must1969, Sounds like you have looked into this pretty well BUT there is another possible cause - -sounds to me like a lean condition in the carb. Do you know what size jets are in there and also have you looked at the "booster" shot? It seems as though the idle circuit is working BUT it could be an issue off idle. You may have to look further into the carb even though it is rebuilt. I would start off simple and check the bowl heights and then check the booster or squirter. The passages are TINY and can get clogged. Just a thought becuase you seem to have the internals of the motor covered Print dad

Hello All, I recently have been trying to FIX a broken base on our 70 Mach with sports mirror (driver side). I learned a few things during this attempt to repair and I thought I would pass along some of the things I learned in the HOPE it will help others. 1. - The pedestal (or base) on the remote mirrors is NOT made to come off. Sure it unbolts - BUT the wires and end will NOT go thru the hole. I THINK you may be able to disconnect the wires from the control knob but it seems a little risky. I THINK the wires are installed and then the knob mechanism is squeezed closed to hold the wire. I DID NOT attempt this BUT others may. 2. - I used the JB WELD with STEEL - - and it seemed to work - -BUT - trouble soon arose. While drilling through the weld, the JB stuff came off the mirror base in a CHUNK. This leads me to believe I had not scuffed up the underside well enough for the JB to adhere. I had scuffed it BUT perhaps not enough. 3. - This is the IMPORTANT part - - I had a friend of mine TRY to weld the mirror base. It WORKED!!!!! He explained to me that back in 69/70 when the mirror was made, the metal was a HIGHER quality and made in the good old USA. He said that back then, they would screen the raw metal for impurities and therefor he thought it MAY weld. He tried it and it worked GREAT. SO I guess the advice is - - when welding work fast - -and DO NOT think that the "POT" metal or whatever it is called will not weld. He did say that the NEW metals today that they use WILL almost certainly NOT weld. I just thought i would pass this info along to give HOPE to others because the darn mirrors are a little pricey and the money can be used for other things. Be well - - work safe and NEVER underestimate the good old Made in U.S. A. materials Print Dad

Hello ALL, GREAT NEWS - I crawled under the dash and saw that the pin that holds the clutch rod to the pedal had broken. SO not the clutch as I had feared just a 15 cent clip. Once and awhile I guess we all get a break. So now back to the simple sports mirrors. HAD TO tell ALL - - Perhaps a clutch will go in this summer when it is a LOT warmer here. Night are down to low 30's and I am getting to OLD to be that COLD lol Thanks guys - - - Print Dad

Hello All, Yup it's me again with a new more serious issue. Tonight I took the car out fro what was likely the last time of the season. I blew the clutch - just driving normal with Mrs. P Dad in the car. I know I have to pull things apart but I was wondering if anyone knows what size clutch I have with a factory 3 speed. Yup a cheapo Mach with a 3 speed stick. I will likely keep the 3 speed as $$v are a little tight. I have the complete shop manuals BUt I think they talk about 4 speeds. I am thinking it is an 11" clutch and would like to order the parts before I pull it apart. Hoping someone else has a 3 speed Mach that would know for sure. Thanks once again Print DAd

Hello All, FIRST let me Thank all who offered ideas tips and very KIND and generous offers. It sure means a LOT to me and I DO honestly appreciate it. Well tonight I took the car out to a function at my school and guess what? I blew the dang clutch. Stinks for sure. When I was young - -I replace the clutch on a Saturday just pulling down on my chest and replacing stuff. Not as young as I used to be and a little worried I will have issues. The other concern is I had a custom exhaust done and it goes right under the trani in an X or H I forget. It is ALL welded and I have NO torches. Stinks for sure. Well I will jack up the old girl and see what has to be done - -just gonna take a little longer than it used to I guess LOL Thanks all the HELp and Pak - -perhaps it should have snowed here earlier Jim - -Print Dad

Hello ALL, A special hi to PAK and here are the pictures I took. They are NOT very good as I ran into the garage and tried to get them real quick. When I DL'ed them I was NOT real happy with the quality. OLD CAMERA but it works. So what I have here Picture #1 shows my BLACK driver mirror and the crack on the base - -There is also an extra screw to help hold the base to the door I guess. The picture is weird because the mirror was there and the flash did something BUT I hope it gives an idea Picture #2 is an OLD mirror I am pretty certain came from my 69FB when I was young - -I had the car about 1973ish. I took a picture of the numbers on the base Picture #3 - -shows the very end of the base has broken off and I do not have the little piece. I am thinking about trying to fabricate something with a SHAPED washer and the JB. Also to PAK - I will be sure to get the right JB. If needed I will take better pictures later BUT it sure is raining and I have a pretty bad cold so my wife says STAY IN the house LOL THANKS - ALL - -I am really touched by the offers, ideas, tips etc. Print Dad - -Jim