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Print Dad

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Everything posted by Print Dad

  1. Rpm…thanks… I want to be fair
  2. Hello all, my wife says time for front seats sitting in cellar to go. these seats are in great shape and have the tracks attached. I know pix would help but I am trying to figure a FAIR price to sell them for. they are high back black with red stripes…no rips or holes. what would be a fair price? I will add pixs in a day or two but these seats look good, I had them in my Mach for about 30 years.they are original ford seats just wondering ….sam
  3. Well fixed perfect. I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod, the result is perfect pedal height great brakes. so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter. the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost . he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master. I will never really know.. but it is done. I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help thank..,sam thanks
  4. hello Brian yes that looks like my pedal. I am 100% certain I ordered the right master. It came with push rod not attached, not sure if the rod was the right one. a bit discouraged……. Thanks. Sam s
  5. Hello thanks for helping. I should have explained better… if I loosened the master without disconnecting the rod from the pedal,,,. do you think I could wiggle the rod and make it sit in the center of the master piston? I think your right ..the rod is not seated. The best solution would be remove the rod.. but I am trying to avoid that thanks… sam
  6. Det0326: thanks for the thoughts the rod was included with the master but not attached. I agree with your thinking. do you think I can seat the rod by loosening the master from the firewall? the whole difficulty in this job for me is the brake switch, that is why I was thinking maybe I could create some play by just loosening the master thanks. Sam i am waiting for a new master but will have to pay $$$$ for install. I should just try doing it again. I did it about 10 years ago and the switch was hard for me. I would rather replace a cam than that switch lololol thanks again.. sam
  7. Hello, I have a couple additional questions. 1. why do they sell master cylinders with no push rod if you can’t get old oushrod out.. my master included the rod 2. any thoughts of me trying to loosen the master to get the rod seated? thanks. Sam
  8. Hello 69 RAven, thanks for taking time to respond. i hAve checked and double checked the Master I had installed itis AcDelco. 18 M1020…..and should fit manual drums all around. for me this should be simple but I don’t think I can do the brake switch…hardto get under dash. why did I go with deacons. It was the most expensive rock auto had and I have used rock auto for years ipaid $400. To have the master installed and will have to pay again thanks. Sam
  9. Hello all… sorry to be a pain but I need follow up thoughts on my issue. the car is 70 Mach with manual drum brakes all around so last week I had a very reputable shop install a new master cylinder. everything went well but when I picked the car up the brake pedal is about 3 inches higher than nornal i Supplied the master and rod. I am thinking it is either the wrong rod or the master rod is not seated in the master. this would make sense because the rod is suppose to go into the master about an Inch now the important questions 1. do you think I could just lose the master cy,under from the firewall and perhaps the rod would seat the reason I took it to a brake shop is I don’t think I can get under dash to hookup the brake light switch (age is getting up on me). ant ideas how I could get the rod seatedwithout removing it from pedal I paid good money to have this done.. but he is swamped with work and shows around the corner I fear. I would like to put the car up for winter. I know this is not a huge deal But I can’t and won’t drive the car withe pedal so high about 1.5 to 2 in head higher than the c,urchin pedal I appreciate your ti e, thought and suggestions Sam
  10. Seems to me that the push rod is not seated correct or it is the wrong master and the rod is too long. as a point of info..l the brake pedal is now about 2 inches higher than the clutch pedal this is unacceptable..gonna talk to the shop on Monday. Maybe I need a different master and rod
  11. Hello, I will look up my old records to check the size of the previous master. I have had this car 46 years and over the years have replaced a lot items thanks sam
  12. I think both are 1MM. I had installed the last master about 10 years ago - and I THINK I got the same one Thanks - Sam
  13. Mach1Driver Thanks for the videos - - I should have been more clear on my original post This car has no booster - just manual drum brakes all around. Thanks - Sam
  14. Hello all,,, once again I am looking for thoughts, opinions, ideas etc, so here is the car specs… our 70 Mach 1 351c drum brakes all around. Man steering today I picked up our car after having a new master cylinder installed by a very reputable shop. the brakes are amazing but the pedal is a little too high for me. I would say the pedal is about and inch and a half higher than what is was before. I purchased the master with a new rod no adjustment onthe rod. so whAt should I do… get used to new pedal height or is there a way to adjust it? I don’t think there is an adjustment unless it was on the pedal to mater rod which there isn’t. I appreciate you thoughts and opinions thanks. Sam.
  15. Hello Mach 1 Driver, thanks for the thoughts and advice,… I will replace the gaskets but I don’t ever see or feel gas on the outside of the carb. I may also try putting fuel in the vent tube. just so you know when I crank the motor I only crank for about 5-6 seconds, the wait a few seconds then repeat. I never continue to crank long thanks for the help… best of luck with your dream car sam
  16. Hello all, once agAin I turn to this forum for thoughts and advice. I have been busy with several projects but a minor but important issue has me stumped. the car 70 Mach 1 351 c the carb about 8 years old Holley 650 vac secondaries when the car sits for about a week it takes a lot of cranking to start unless I give it a 2 sec shot of starter fluid i have checked the choke and it is working great and fully adjusted i have a clear “fram” filter before the carb,,,, it stays 3/4 full i checked and there is NO leaks at accelerator pump, metering;g block or anywhere outside the carb. this leads me to think possibly a bad power valve ??? not sure if they leak into the manifold. when the car starts… she runs about as perfect as could be expected. no-skips , buck, backfire ets. My wife thinks I’m nuts…but I would like to let car sit and start right up after 3-4 weeks if I start after 2 days I pump the gas once to set check turn key and it fires i know I have to remove sight bowl screw to verify that the bowl is empty I appreciate thoughts and opinions sam
  17. RPM, a great picture .. thanks a real great pix and if I do have a shop do the job.. I’ll give it to them. hard to explain why I may not attempt the job. plastic time I did it it took about 3 hours and thirty tries. onthe final attempt it went together sooooosimple just had to get the correct angle. this has me depressed a bit.. I have wrenched on cars for 60 years and not much I wouldn’t tackle. I guess just an issue with my age…. thanks. Sam
  18. Hello Rustback, thanks for the info and thoughts. when I replacecthe master it was simple except for installing brake light switch. i worked a just that for several hours… too tight up there. when I finally got the switch in it took about a minute. that is why I was thinking of leaving the rod on the pedal. You are right manual drum brakes all arounr not sure what I will do… thanks again….. sam
  19. Follow up questions 1. can pull the rod from master cylinder and leave it attached to br!e pedal 2. I know the rod is suppose to attach inside the master cylinder. But why? Does the brake pedal help pull the “puck” backward 3. Should I just add fluid and keep a eye on things…. 4. Why do some master cylinders come with no rod? idoubt I can work under the dash.. don’t know why I appreciate ideas tips etc. sam
  20. Hello all, I feel really stupid because I already did this once about 10 years ago. so more specs… car is 70 Mach. 351c with 3 speedstck. drum brakes all around. I can pull the master cylinder and bench bleed a new on… the part I forget is the rod that hooks to the pedal. I forget how it attaches… I hope it’s not behind the brake light switch. last time I replaced the switch it took me hours. Then suddenly it went in. So I guess I need to know if anyone would leave the rod on the pedal and just replace the master? I noticed a tiny leak up by the clutch pedal today…inside car…only took about 1/16 of an inch of fluid in back bowl. frontwas perfect. looking for ideas and thoughts…keep in. Mind im71 and not as nibble as I once was. Should I just watch this or replace master?e thanks in advance. Sam
  21. New din tool arrived today. Mush heavier. inserted tool. Nothing… I have given up. Lol may just have aftermarket instslled thanks.. sam
  22. Print Dad


    Hello, sorry to hear of your issues but I have a fewthoughts 1. the stripped screw will cause a leak…don’t use it 2. you can just replace the front room back bowl… depends on which is messed up 3 you can get a accelerator pump at most auto supply stores like advance auto etc just so you know.. it is pretty simple to replace the bowl… I bet Holley will have instructions. On their web site good luck. Sam
  23. Hello all, I’m hoping some of the people here can offer ideas my wife’s radio won’t come out…it is factory radio with single CD player below so I put the din tool in the 4 holes ..push the tool in, don’t feel much… then I try to push outward on the tool and pull the radio. It won’t budge.has a little wiggle side to side but really stuck. For kicks I tried the cdplayer and that won’t come out. I don’t want tobreak the bezel and I think there is as few behind the cd unit..but that won’t come out. I have tried a lot…but something must be messed up with the springs. I talked to a radio shop today and they want & $500 to install a new radio i was hoping to pull the radio and get numbers off it and try to find one on eBay. the CD player works.. but the radio doesnt how do I get the dang radio out? trust me it is stuck.. I watched about 10 videos and it looks so simple. nope… not for old me… any ideas ? thanks sam
  24. Hello ALL, ONce again I turn to the PROS here on a somewhat simple but VERY important couple of questions regarding our fuel sender As a reminder - car is a 70 MAch - gauges all work - BUT The fuel gauge reads FULL when only about 3/4 FULL. I had changed the sender several years ago. SO here are my 4? questions - -I should know the answers but OLD age has me questioning everything 1. - Will the sender PULL out while the tank is in the car - I had changed the tank several years ago. Not sure if there is room between the tank and rear pumpkin - - I wish I could remember, I think I installed the sender when the tank was new and out 2. - Should I simply bend the arm - - for a rough adjust or OR 3. - Should I replace the sender and if so - - what brand seems BEST. I think the once I purchased was a quality unit from CANADA - I just can't remember 4. - Are the S DRAKE units reliable and accurate I know this should be simple but I always seek advice of MANY here Thanks - -Sam
  25. Hello 1969 Mach1 I may be wrong on the width of my fan - but a quick measure I thought was 18inches I agree the 3 shroud picture is what I bought a long time ago from CJ - -it is a Drake product but looks like crap. I was thinking maybe the big block motors with 24 inch radiator would fit an approx 18" fan. I hope the sun comes out tomorrow and I will try to get a better measurement As I mentioned the 3rd ppix is me with the shroud up against the radiatoy with just the top 2 screws - -but it stinks
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