rockhouse66

The filler board doesn't use fasteners in a 1969 car. It just has little wings that fold down to keep it from sliding around. The trunk mat should cover it. Let me know if you consider parting with your original mat.

I don't think there are numbers to ID an original, but I think it is a little thinner than the best repro and, of course, would have the brown felt backing and show some wear. Not sure this helps but here is an original. Would be happy to look at pictures of yours and would, of course, be interested in it.

I have this pricey ACC one in my coupe and I think it looks very good. I think the cheap ones look awful. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/trunk_mat_burtex_original_speckled_style-141015-1.html Don't let that original mat get away, regardless of condition. If it is for a non-folddown fastback or a coupe, I would be very interested in it.

Very interesting car. I have details of an unrestored coupe with the sports appearance package only, and there is no blackout on the tail panel. So, if it was original on the car you saw, it must have been part of the hood blackout option.

I don't know how similar that Demon is to a Holley, but the Holley has an adjustment screw for the secondary throttle butterflies. It should be adjusted so that these are always cracked open just enough to expose the transfer slots (very narrow slots in the venturi). If this is not done, then you have to open the primary further with the idle screw to get your idle speed. This open primary will cause run-on. You want the engine running on all 4 venturis at idle. Then the primary will be in its normal almost closed position and the engine will not run-on when switched off. That has been my experience. Yes, carbon buildup/hot spots could do it too, but it is a lot easier to work on the carb first!

What carb are you running? If it is a Holley, I'm betting that carb adjustment is your problem.

Bo The item I described as a plastic clip is really not (though it is plastic). Here is a picture. Also, on that plastic clip above the booster, those are reproduced and can be purchased from AMK. And yes, the washer hose makes an unnatural loop through it, but I believe that is correct.

The original clamp is black plastic FYI.

I believe these are the closest look to the original that is available (other than early NOS ones).

I sent an email - my mistake maybe? Anybody hear back from this guy?

I still have this one; http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/pts/4064436469.html

The diagram is in the shop manual. That orange hose on the bottom of the air cleaner base is a choke bleed and is supposed to go to a T in the choke tube that screws into the carburetor. Very unusual you still have the orange hose, and a very good chance that the choke tube with the T is missing. BTW, this T and extra hose/check valve appeared on '69 cars built sometime after about mid-Feb. and wasn't on the earlier cars.

I have a pair of low backs but they are in GA, so I didn't think it made much sense for someone in WV? $150 for the pair if you pick them up near Athens, GA.

The knob unscrews from the stem. Pull the stem up, hold it tightly with needle nose pliers, and unscrew the knob. Some come off easily, some don't.

I bought a pair of chrome wheels from Paulsen and they also offer them bare. They have the "bumps" for hub caps. Also, a smaller center hole than Wheel Vintiques or Stockton so they look better IMO. http://www.petepaulsen.com/catalog/oem.html

I think it should have Bendix on the bottom to be an original, but not 100% on that.

These parts are now on eBay plus a lot more '69 parts; 8-track radio, clock, trans, diff, etc. http://www.ebay.com/sch/rhc1822/m.html?item=111172854487&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

If that brake m/c is truly an original Bendix unit, it is worth some money for restoration. Ditto things like the tie rod ends. You could compare the details of the m/c with some of the pictures here (they are for PB, MB is similar); http://www.deadnutson.com/page/page/2634063.htm

These are mine and for sale in the Atlanta general area (Athens, GA). See my Craiglist ad here; http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/pts/4064436469.html http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/pts/4064445433.html

This is a nice piece and I have it currently on eBay; http://www.ebay.com/itm/111165345769?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

If you find a pair NOS, they will likely be '70 style and not exactly like the oriignals in '69. They changed from 3 wire to 2 wire. If you really want correctness here, you will probably need to find a restored pair or originals.

I've seen some pretty ragged/butchered from the factory, but the way I think they were supposed to do it involved drilling a hole with a hole saw top and bottom of the A/C line knockout in your upper photo, then knocking out the rectangle to end up with a sort of oval or oblong hole. Use the existing holes top and bottom of the knockout as the pilot hole for your hole saw. For the lower line, there was a hole drilled or punched in that sloped section just above the hole you show. Not sure how that one was done. Maybe someone has a good picture to post of an original car that doesn't already have the cooler lines in the way? EDIT: I just remembered, there is great detailed info here: http://www.boss302.com/holes.htm

I'll take the water pump. PM sent.