rockhouse66

Here is what the door looks like behind a deluxe panel.

I have a nice set of the rear interior woodgrain panels. I am in NC and headed to Carlisle this afternoon. seven seven zero 823 thirteen seventy or email at jimwoods7 at outlook dot com

I have a theory about this and some evidence to support it. If your coupe had a black vinyl top, like most Grande's did, the rear window trims are black. If no vinyl top, they are a grey color. I think the parts book might also list another color or two though I have never seen any colors but black or gray. I have the rear window trims from an extremely low mileage plain vanilla coupe, body color new lime, and they are grey.

Originally the wire came out of the loom here;

Fresh 390 Stroker, .030 over, 4.25 Scat Crank, 445 cubic inches. Dyno run and tested; 504 HP, 563 TQ. Top quality parts throughout. Scat H beam rods, Mahle coated pistons with trick 1 mm top & second rings, 9.9 CR for pump gas. Professionally ported C6AE-R heads, CJ 2.09/1.65 valves, Crane valve springs, Performer RPM intake, Harland Sharp roller rockers with HD shafts and end stands, ARP main bolts, head studs, rocker studs. Comp solid lifter cam with Ferrea Ultra Lite lifters and custom Smith Bros pushrods. 8 QT oil pan. Price is $8500. Located in Western NC. Interested parties please email me at jimwoods7 at outlook dot com. All build details documented, dyno results available.

If your goal is just to get a roller tip, you could look into these lightweight non-adjustable rockers. $450 a set. You may need custom pushrods with these depending on what cam you use. https://lykinsmotorsports.com/products

Contrary to that thread link, the knobs just unscrew. Pull the shaft out to full extension, grip the shaft and unscrew the knob. Since you can buy new knobs, if the removal is really tough you can just grip the shaft with something and gorilla the plastic knob if necessary to unscrew it. Then use a new knob when you reassemble.

I think the possible damage is to the shock absorber and its bushings due to full extension and the weight of the suspension components hanging on it.

I have one. What are you using on the pot metal/aluminum parts as an additive to the water? I use mine with either Purple Power or Simple Green added but I am cleaning bearings with it. When I put an aluminum piece in it discolored it. I think that was using Simple Green.

I understand Marco is no longer at K of T and their quality has suffered lately. Just passing along info I read elsewhere.

I have used the BR Driven oil on 4 flat tappet engines now and had no issues with cam break-in. Maybe just lucky but I am superstitious now so won't use anything else. I should note that these break-ins were done on a dyno where the load and temperature can be closely controlled so that may be part of the reason for my success. I also made sure I had checked and rechecked everything to ensure that the engine started immediately.

A Truetrac diff is nothing like a traction lok. No clutch discs.

I think that is the preload. In other words, "nominal" is zero preload and then you remove shims to obtain the required preload.

I doubt this is your problem, but my Grande' behaved in a similar fashion. It took me a long time, but I eventually stumbled on the fact that the stud for the idler arm had been installed upside down. So when you hooked everything up, the angle of the passenger side steering link was much different than the angle on the driver side, causing a lot of bump steer when only one tire hit a bump. How do the angles of your steering links compare when you eyeball them? Same?

Which vendor space will you be in at Carlisle?

The Hurst setup uses the 1970 style switch, not the '69 style that you show in your picture.

More detail. Here is my '69 with a Hurst shifter, using the Hurst plate and the '70 style switch, switch retainer and a '70 b/u light switch harness.

This diagram shows the bracket you need.

I restore smog pumps for show cars and need cores. The ones I need will have a casting number on the back cover of 7801149 and will have a 3 bolt hub on the front. These are basically 1967-1973 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury smog pumps. Have any laying around? I pay an average of $200 each depending on completeness and condition. More if you also have accessory items like the brackets or hoses. My email is jimwoods7 at outlook dot com. And thanks for looking!

You will pass right by this place if it interests you; http://www.thebighousemuseum.com/ And the Biltmore House in Asheville, NC is a must see if you like that sort of history. It might take a little detour to get there North from Atlanta then East to Charlotte, but the area is very pretty with mountains and Asheville is a cool town worth exploring.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113146641389?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Listed as $145 BIN but I will do better for a member here.

FOR SALE - the trim pieces shown in the photos below. All pieces will need to be refinished to be nice. Sold as a lot. The lower windshield pieces are in better than usual condition with no hard dents or bends. They are '70 style with the rounded tab edges. The upper windshield piece might be FB or might be coupe. I assume these are different? Compared to the one on my coupe, this one seems to be flatter / less curved at the ends. The plastic headlight pieces are intact with nothing broken. Price is $150 for the lot plus shipping at actual cost from NC, zip 28721.

It would have also had this tape stripe;

Repro? Service Part? Assembly line part? They are all different and the value varies widely from $50 to $500.

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