LoneWolf2U

Part of the casting from factory. Not covered by anything.

Try using a simple peice of hose to locate the whisling sound. I like using a chunk of 5/8 heater hose about 2' long. Flexable and large enough to pickout the differant sound you are seeking. Ps, I still am leaning towards the spacer plate not being completely flat and leaking near the rear next to the manifold. They do tend to bow if not torqued properly. Ps,Ps, Just a thought popped up in my head, The missmatched intake to heads may be your cause for low vac while running. The 2V head ports are trying to suck all the air being allowed in by your 4V intake. Now you have volume and not enough flow. just my 2cts

Low vac is from, 1. leaks 2. ign timing retarded 3. valve timing, cam may be set 4* retarded for smog. As for the spacer issue, sbf's that have coolant passages in the intake will heat fuel and cause it to boil when eng runs hot or sits after running. This will show as hard warm starts caused by flooded condition. The C eng is a dry intake and is less likely to boil fuel, but heat does transfer so a spacer is a help in contoling it. From PD's last post, The spacer you are using could be part of the trouble. an open spacer should not be used on a four hole intake, There is vac tracks on the bottom of the carb you are using that will be open causing possiable problems. Try using a 1/4in 4 hole spacer under the carb. Its made from gasket material with crush sleeves at the bolt holes style. These thicker gasket spacers will block off the choke and heat crossover opening in the intake, a possiable leak source you are having. When using this style, carb mounting is critical. set carb on finger tighten nuts snug. then using an X pattern corner to corner to torque them. a front to back H pattern tightening may cause warpage and leak.

The hole is for the timing chain and fuel pump oiling. excess oil from the valley area spills over to lube them from there.

Also have clock face woodgrain panel for $35.00 Photobucket account not working at this time, email mach1rider2u@yahoo.com for pic.

Have dash pad with cap installed for 69/70 with air. in really good condition. $75.00 plus shipping from 92544

If you think the intake is leaking from underneath, plug the pvc hose and Hook your vac guage onto the dipstick tube and run the motor rpms up to 2500. If it has a leak from the vally area your guage will rise. My thoughts are timing could be reset for better vac readings. the factory setting are best used for getting it in a running state and then fine tuning it to what the motor likes best. The book on mine calls for 6* btdc and it runs much better with it set at 12* The C motors are a breed all there own and need to be tuned as such.

From your discription it sound like a sticky intake valve from sitting so long. If you can get it to idle, remove one plug wire at a time till you find the offending cyl. Second possabilty is a spark jumping plug wire causing it to pop on an nearby cyl or bad dist cap allowing it to cross fire spark.

Spraying starting fluid will only raise the rpm if it finds a direct leak, not a seeping leak. Before you pull the intake off, pull out ALL the plugs and look them over. is one or two of them oil soaked? This is a godd indication of the gasket leaking from the valley area into the intake ports. If your plugs are all tanish colored, I would try tuning the carb mixture screws to raise the vac reading along with timing changes to 16 bftdc or till you do not have a pinging problem. As for your other post, you can remove the intake with the dist in, but it is a bear to replace it and not have the gaskets slding around. I pull mine out and use 4- 5/16 all thread rods in the center holes for guides to get ti straight down on the gaskets.

Pull out the plugs and dry them off. you have prob flooded it by now.

red wire to key on power source, yellow wire to fused power source hot all the time(holds the memory and clock) black wire to ground, blue wire is for switching on amp or anntena power.

Time for new switch, As it does control brake light funtion when using turn signal. Make a color chart of wiring (color of wires from colume to harness wires) before removing old switch to help with reconnections.

Check for voltage at the coil + side with the key in ON position. I bet you are not getting any. Possiable cause is resistor wire cooked from your mishap.

The cable is sticking inside the housing. When it sticks the trans coninues to turn it winding it up, then it releses and unwinds causing the jump in reading at the speedometer. pull inner cable out from the trans connection and inspect it for fraying and lube it with white grease and reinstall.

The air bleeds are in the top front. looking down the air horn with the choke plate open, you will see 4 small dots on the top front area. They look like very small balls stuck in the housing. these keep a vac from forming in the fuel bowl and starving the eng.

The air bleed holes are plugged. Try spraying some cleaner in them first, or running a thin wire strand thru them. My guess is that if you removed the sight plug from the front bowl, the drivers side adjusting screw would work conferming the air bleeds are plugeed or gummed over from sitting.

Could be as simple as the harness is loose from the back of the guage pod from bumping it around mounting the dash pad. Everything else works but that system.

If you have the window up, You have the steps right. It takes some pressure to get it coming out up the channel. The screw may be covered under the black at the end, but its there to hold the rubber from riding up. and +1 on the dish soap lube for the install.

Yes, but dropping the Idler arm also, will lower the steering link and will assist you in this task.

It sounds like you didn't put the roll pin back in. there is a measurement of where the control valve is to be placed and then roll pin needs to be installed and clamp on valve to steering link tightened.

It sounds like you didn't put the roll pin back in. there is a measurement of where the control valve is to be placed and then roll pin needs to be installed and clamp on valve to steering link tightened.

take yellow wire form radio (memory) and hook it to the lighter. black radio wire to grnd red radio wire to yellow wire in dash harness for switched power.

take yellow wire form radio (memory) and hook it to the lighter. black radio wire to grnd red radio wire to yellow wire in dash harness for switched power.

Match set does not mean adjusted properly. Your problem from the discription is line pressure is not releasing after petal has been pressed several times. Most common cause is rod adjustment is not correct, usually the rod is too long and not allowing the masters plunger to return to its fully open setting allowing the fluid to return to the masters res.

Match set does not mean adjusted properly. Your problem from the discription is line pressure is not releasing after petal has been pressed several times. Most common cause is rod adjustment is not correct, usually the rod is too long and not allowing the masters plunger to return to its fully open setting allowing the fluid to return to the masters res.