Solo2

Any old style open pit alignment shops will be able to do the alignment. There are many old timer's alignment shops in the dfw area. I use them many times before. Just let your fingers do the walking in the "yellow" pages under open pit alignment shops.

To answer you question, Yes, there are differences in model years. C4 '64 C4 '65-'66 C4 '67-'69 etc............... The only difference between the six and the eight will be in the torque convertor. Given that the C4 is the same year.

To answer you question, Yes, there are differences in model years. C4 '64 C4 '65-'66 C4 '67-'69 etc............... The only difference between the six and the eight will be in the torque convertor. Given that the C4 is the same year.

Go to Ford's website for more info on the head.

FYI When making catalogs it is always about a year before. The head is only purchased fully assembled. Things change since the catalog was printed a year ago.

All your questions will be answered by downloading their catalog: http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/catalogs.asp

FYI Here are the air flow numbers for the AFR 205 and my choice of a better head. This head is what I will use for my 408 stroker. BTW it is also the new head that is used on the new Ford Boss 302 racing crate motor, M-6049-Z304P. AFR 205 .200" 141 I 119 E .300" 201 I 170 E .400" 251 I 205 E .500" 291 I 221 E .550" 301 I 228 E M-6049-Z304P (Ford's New Boss 302 head) .200" 148.7 I 110.4 E .300" 225.3 I 158.8 E .400" 278.1 I 191.7 E .500" 314.1 I 221.5 E .550" 319.7 I 227.7 E

When you do not know the torque spces of a bolt. Use this site as your guide: http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.htm

Here is what I have on the 8910 from the archives: I hope that this works for you........ Finally, start with the engine won't shut off I had to add the diode to the wiring harness at the regulator as directions show to stop the feeback of the regulator energizing the msd. Works great now. (In it's most simple form we had to use the wiring diagram from the 8920 current tach and apply that to the 8910 adapter. After a few hours showing my buddy (Dale) the posts from here about the tach and the msd we were almost ready to go to the 8920 tach adapter and try that. The 8910 adapter diagram doesn't make sense to us and we had to treat the tach as a seperate circuit on it's own. In the end what we found was to disconnect the tach harness from the dash wiring, get another mating plug and supply ignition key power to the red wire on the tach wiring going to the tach. Then the blck wire coming out of the tach goes to the red wire of the 8910 tach adapter. From there the white wire goes from the tach adapter to the Tach output of the msd box. Another way which is basically the same is to leave your dash harness attached (because ignition power is there anyways) to the tach and the pink wire which is no longer used with the msd would be the one to go to the red wire of the adapter and from adapter to the tach output of the msd. Although I did not use this last method jumping from the pink wire which is a resistor wire may cause a problem with the tach working properly as I didn't try this method.) The wirig diagram for the 8910 uses the white wire from the msd ignition pickup to complete the circiut of the tach which I don't understand how that works, so we just ended up going from ignition through to tach through adapter to tach output on msd. Thanks to Dale for his help, as two heads can be better than one with these electrical gremlins and I hope this helps... The way I'm reading it, he's running it almost the way MSD says, but running the tach on a standalone circuit and not picking up the signal from the coil, but using the tach port. Basicly it looks like this: B+------->TACH<---------->R --[8910]-- W<-------->MSD tach port. Next time I'm at a parts store, I'll pick up an 8910 and check this out. It makes more sense to me than to pull the tach signal off the coil, which has multiple sparks below 3000 RPM. This multiple spark is why you use the tach port in the first place. My 6AL renders my Snap-On digital timing light useless, I have to use an old style dial back light.

I do not have any experience in using the msd unit & msd adapter with the tach. I only know this: Both Tachman and I agree, you need that resister wire to control the current going to the small transistors in the tach, otherwise they get to much current and burn up. More like a +$200 repair job for replacing the burnt transistors and diodes. My $0.02

Just to let everybody know, that back in '66, Ford had a tsb out for "longer" legged people that needed to move the seat back to make for additional leg room. I have sent this two page info on vmf many, many times and could send that info to you as well. Note: It might be the same info since I have sent this tsb info to so many people now. Just pm me with your email address. TSB 269, Additional leg room between steering wheel and driver's seat

Congrats on the konis. I know that they look nice on. Q: What setting for the front / rear did you start at?

Here is the better full length thread. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2450&highlight=cleaner

Follow this thread. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1452761/tp/1/

Here is that general "how to restore" book. http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/item.asp?itemid=LT18

Here is that general "how to restore" book. http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/item.asp?itemid=LT18

Just for your info; the firewall gasket is plain old fashion "rubber". Most people just use an old bike inner rubber tube to use and cut-out what they need.

Just for your info; the firewall gasket is plain old fashion "rubber". Most people just use an old bike inner rubber tube to use and cut-out what they need.

What's a striaght line or 1/4 mile? My cars only knows the twisties of the road and "Grand-Prix" types of roads. It reminds me when I show my cars at car shows, they always ask, how fast can see go, I say 1:58 minute and they get a puzzleing look on their face. Why do they only refer to 1/4 mile speeds?

What's a striaght line or 1/4 mile? My cars only knows the twisties of the road and "Grand-Prix" types of roads. It reminds me when I show my cars at car shows, they always ask, how fast can see go, I say 1:58 minute and they get a puzzleing look on their face. Why do they only refer to 1/4 mile speeds?

You are almost getting the best bang-for-the-buck with the Global stuff. But there is one better, try opentracker racing for the suspension. He is "THE BEST BANG-FOR-THE-BUCK"! http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ He will steer you in the right direction. Great man to deal with. For the subframe connectors try Tinman he is the best; http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=60/home_id=59/mode=cat/cat60.htm http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/subframe. The second best subframe is the TCP product. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/subframe_connectors.htm You need to rethink about your motor build, the head is too small for the carb, the 205 is a better head choice for that carb but, it all depends on the cam profile, doesn't it ? If you keep the 185 the 650cfm carb would be better choice. Here is a simple carb requirement formula: carb cfm required = (cubic inches x RPM/3456) X VE% example: (351x6000rpm/3456) x 85% = 517.97 cfm See even your monster killer 351 just needs no more than 600 cfm carb. Please rethink your motor build and its purpose? street driving only, 1/4 mile running or open track?

You are almost getting the best bang-for-the-buck with the Global stuff. But there is one better, try opentracker racing for the suspension. He is "THE BEST BANG-FOR-THE-BUCK"! http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ He will steer you in the right direction. Great man to deal with. For the subframe connectors try Tinman he is the best; http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=60/home_id=59/mode=cat/cat60.htm http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/subframe. The second best subframe is the TCP product. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/subframe_connectors.htm You need to rethink about your motor build, the head is too small for the carb, the 205 is a better head choice for that carb but, it all depends on the cam profile, doesn't it ? If you keep the 185 the 650cfm carb would be better choice. Here is a simple carb requirement formula: carb cfm required = (cubic inches x RPM/3456) X VE% example: (351x6000rpm/3456) x 85% = 517.97 cfm See even your monster killer 351 just needs no more than 600 cfm carb. Please rethink your motor build and its purpose? street driving only, 1/4 mile running or open track?

There is NO one book that "tells all". There is a "how to restore your mustang" book but like said it is general stuff, the same stuff that you can get in the service manuals. The service manual is the "Bible" to restore your '69. It has everything that is mostly needed. Then what the service manual lacks the other listed books will fill-in the gaps.

There is NO one book that "tells all". There is a "how to restore your mustang" book but like said it is general stuff, the same stuff that you can get in the service manuals. The service manual is the "Bible" to restore your '69. It has everything that is mostly needed. Then what the service manual lacks the other listed books will fill-in the gaps.

Well welcome! You are getting there but not like some of us older guys. How about since mid 70's! Going on the second and last restore-restromod on the '69. If you are in Texas, we have a very large '69 crowd here. Come and join us.