superduty69

John, yes we enjoyed hangin out with you guys also! That is a great deal, my belly is always full when i leave that show. Coz, check this out.http://www.prostickracing.com/ This is a great group of guys! If you need to know anything specific pm me and i will call ya. Hopefully there won't be a conflict next year so we can all hang out! John

Do you have the poly bushings or the rubber ones?? I have heard of the poly bushings causing the rods to break(not enough flex). John

As much as i love coming to that show, we will not be there this year.:frown: We will be at 75-80 on Fri. and Summerduck Raceway in VA on Sat. racing with the Pro Stick class.:biggrin: Hope it is nice and you get to go, as that is a great afternoon! Maybe next year! P.S. We will be at MIR on July 24 also, i know some guys are local to that so stop and say hi. Look for this car

I bought my rear drum brakes from Strange, as i was buying other parts from them anyways. Came complete, bolt on and go. Comparable price and work great. John

Or if you dump it at 5400 you get both! John

Slapper bars are better than nothing. They do help but not as much as a Cal-Trac type set-up. The Cal-Trac bars are the top of the heap for bolt on leaf spring traction aids IMO. I have Slide-A-Links on my stang, very similar to the Cal-Trac, i have NEVER had any wheel-hop ever. It will blaze the street tires and will pull the front tires with the slicks on. John

You will have to remove the old first. When i did mine the int. was out, dash,seats everything. Imo this is the easiest way, at least seats, upper dash and drivers side rear side panel will need to be removed. In one weekend, im not sure. But i know i did not spend 24 hrs doing it. Now having a complete car and removing everything, run the wire and put it all back maybe 24 hrs for a pro is close. Does Painless have the install inst. on there website?? I know i read the inst. that came in the kit several times before i even started. Maybe a couple evenings to tear it apart and a long weekend to run wire and re assemble might be doable. I did not use the Powerbraid, if you want to use it do it when you run the wire it would be easier than tearing it apart again. John

You will have to remove the old first. When i did mine the int. was out, dash,seats everything. Imo this is the easiest way, at least seats, upper dash and drivers side rear side panel will need to be removed. In one weekend, im not sure. But i know i did not spend 24 hrs doing it. Now having a complete car and removing everything, run the wire and put it all back maybe 24 hrs for a pro is close. Does Painless have the install inst. on there website?? I know i read the inst. that came in the kit several times before i even started. Maybe a couple evenings to tear it apart and a long weekend to run wire and re assemble might be doable. I did not use the Powerbraid, if you want to use it do it when you run the wire it would be easier than tearing it apart again. John

I used the Painless kit on my 69. And it was truly painless, the inst. were very clear and easy to follow and it was mainly plug and play. John

I used the Painless kit on my 69. And it was truly painless, the inst. were very clear and easy to follow and it was mainly plug and play. John

http://www.accufabracing.com/exhaust.htm Give them a call. They should be able to hook you up. I got a set for my car and they fit very well. John

I have a Holley black pump and it is LOUD. I only started running it this year with 600 +- miles and not had a problem with it other than it is LOUD. One thing i would suggest, go to summit.com and pick a pump and read the installation instructions. There are some issues that need to be addressed, placement,pre-post pump filters and electrical. The inst. cover most of it and will give ya better idea as to if you still need one. IMO if you are set up with a mech. pump and need to replace, a good name brand pump should be more than enough to feed what you have. With way less hassle. Hope this helps a little. John

This will probably be up to you and how much you want to spend to get the results you are after. You may be able to find a pre-made kit for a 69, but i doubt it. Your best bet would be to find a local, reputable, chassis shop and talk to them. A roll bar usually means no more back seat. But a good shop may be able to run the bars in a way that it may not be as bad. Here is the link to my progress thread and pics of the roll bar i had made for mine. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=4416 I would definitely find a shop, NOT Willy's bait and welding :tongue_smilie:.Find a style you like,Google is your friend, they will help you and it will fit nicer and look better. It won't be real cheap but you will end up with something much nicer. John

What are your plans for the car? Drag, road course, cruising? The first two you will need to check the rule book for the class or division you want to run in, as there are different requirements for different classes. The faster you go the more safety things you need. If cruising, something to stiffen the car a little, but ease of entry would be a big one. Because a rules abiding roll bar/cage does require some extra effort to get into,out of.:whistling: John

Yes i have dumps on my car for the track. They are not street legal in PA. I have Dynomax Ultra-Flow's. 3" by the way. What is it that you want to know? John

If you can't find gaskets, you can use Permatex Ultra Copper. I used this on my headers and no leaks at all. I do not know that "I" would try it without something in there. Maybe someone else knows for sure. John

Done, nice pics. John

I bought mine from http://www.cjponyparts.com/ You will have to fit it to the hood as it is fiberglass. John

Are you sure the torque converter is seated all the way into the pump? If it is not seated it may cause the crank to press forward and take the thrust clearance away. Something to check at least. John

If my clutch comes back in time i will have it there. If not we will be down with the Comet. It sucks having it apart now, but it had to be fixed. It just would not hold even with the crappy street tires i got on it now. And not a chance with the slicks on. John

Damn..... Sorry to see that. You were leaning towards the head gasket in your first post and that was it after all. That is one bad thing about doing this stuff over the internet, you are there, you ran it,and you heard it. We can only offer advice or insight as to what to check or test by what info is given. For piece of mind i would also check that the deck surface is flat in the area that the gasket gave out. If it was lean and hot i would check it just to be sure. I hope this gets fixed up and you are back on the road before to long. There is never any fun in finding something like that. Good Luck John

I agree with Jayru, 25 base timing way to high, I would start 12-14deg. base. Carb needs tuned, Holley or Edelbrock? Do you know how to tune the carb yourself or know someone who can? Myself, i would not tear the motor down for no good reason until i sorted out the carb. If plugs are black I would start at carb. John

Personally a manual trans. is the only way to go, But...... you could get an auto with a manual valve body and shift it your self.:shifty: John P.S. Not all 4 speeds are first round losers, but they take a good bit of practice to do it consistently. Which is the MOST important thing to drag racing. As i am finding out.

A couple of questions... New motor or just new carb. What was the timing before and after adjusting. Was carb. installed ootb or or set up for your motor. I only run my junk on premium gas to eliminate any detonation problems. A quick way to check push rods is to roll them on a flat surface. Do you have headers and are they leaking. They can and do sometimes sound like that. Any more detailed info will help us give you detailed responses. Hope this helps John

These are words to live by. I have done this many times and things go much smoother. Takes longer but the frustration is just not worth it. I feel your pain, because the closer you get to being done the worse this becomes. Very nice job so far keep plugging along.:biggrin::biggrin: John