Jump to content

superduty69

Members
  • Content Count

    231
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by superduty69

  1. Really like the rear bumper fit. That looks great!
  2. Here is two of mine, for your consideration.
  3. The last cd's I had in the stereo were Slayer Raining Blood, Pantera Live and Iron Maiden Live. Now I use Pandora radio on my phone plugged into the stereo. Usually Slipknot radio or Pantera radio. They both play a good mix of what I want to listen to. I have been a faithful metal head since the 80's. Plus as a side benefit it keeps the neighbors away.
  4. Lol I've been around just don't post much.
  5. The fit is way better for a custom one. Find a local chassis shop that does this kind of work and talk to them. Look at their work and ask questions! In the end you will have something that fits the car and is safer for you and make the car stronger in the end.
  6. If that had fit a 63 Mercury comet, I'd a bought that! Great work!
  7. Do you two know you guys are gonna cost me more money? Lol! Very cool side project that I can see in my future.
  8. Preload is when the cross bolt on top of the spring is tight to the spring and is applying pressure to the spring. Preload will stiffen the suspension. Since you are having a problem "I" would unhook the shocks, loosen the front eye bolt and the shackle bolts. Adjust the CalTracs so that the cross bolt is off of the spring as much as you can and bounce the rear of the car. It should bounce freely and a lot, like 4-5 inches. Did you grease all the bolts and bushings when you installed them? Did you have the bolts in the shackles and front eye tight? They should be just snug, nylock nuts are the best in these applications. ^^^ these are important^^^ Hook back up shocks and set to full soft, both settings. Bounce the car again to see if it is better. Adjust the CalTracs to 1/4"-3/8" gap and drive the car. And see what you have. Sometimes it is better to go back to the beginning and start over. Something is bound up and by going over everything it is easier to find the issue.
  9. 1978 Ford Granada, yea I know.... It had a 302 and a stick shift. Put all the teenage kid stuff on it. Cragars, air shocks, dual exhaust that exited in front of the rear tires. Was a really nice car and it ran good enough to surprise people from time to time. Traded it in on a 79 f-250 4x4 after I got snowed in one too many times.
  10. How do you have the CalTracs adjusted? Do you have preload in them or a gap? Did you set them up with your weight in the drivers seat?
  11. On the I Pad you have the options, at least I do.
  12. 15" Convo Pro's top pic is with 28"tall front tire, bottom pic is 26" tall front tire.
  13. This is how I modified the compressor I borrowed from Advance Auto. This works.
  14. Looks great! And can post pics from phone now! Great job!
  15. Yes, opening the gap will help to a point,but too much could be a problem at the track with sticky tires. If you only have one hole in the front you could raise the rear of the bar. I did this with mine. It was still hitting the tire too hard with it in the bottom front hole. Drilled another hole maybe 1" up. Any amount of lowering of the front hole you can do, would help. I can take a pic of that in the morning if you want.
  16. Move the bar to the lower hole in the front. In the vid it looked like Calverts rear bracket but the bar was at such an angle I was unsure. Do not use the upper hole, in a stick app. It will hit the tire to violently, as you are seeing. I would lower bar in the front. I set mine with a 1/16" gap with me in the seat. This soften the hit even more. Install the shock extensions also. Take it and run it. See what it does, you may not need the extensions but I would put them on and see how it reacts. If it doesn't do the bounce, take them off and see if it comes back. I would leave everything else as is till you make a pass. If it bogs raise the leave rpm. If it spins lower the rear psi. My Hoosiers liked 12.5-13.5 the best but I never used M/T so you will have to experiment with that. If it still seems to have a lot of body separation tighten the shock extension 2 clicks and if still spinning after lowering the rear psi loosen the shock extension 2 clicks. This is also experiment area. The traction bar setting is most likely your biggest issue in the vids. In the second slow vid you see it try to crush the tire and it never moves. The bars put that much leverage on the tire that it raises the body till it takes the weight off of it. Or the shock tops out. The tire snaps loose for one turn and the car goes forward. Having the tire stick like that on the hit is extremely hard on parts. Try it and see how it works and let us know.
  17. Ok, a few questions, Leave rpm Tire pressure What traction bars are they? I watched both slow speed videos multiple times. I see several issues but I know your reluctance to change the car as it sits. Here is a video of mine. Ran a 7.44 @ 95. Stock springs, slide-a-link traction bars and Calvert shocks. Leave rpm was 5000 and tire psi was 15.
  18. This is as true as it gets. You have done an amazing job with your car, and it is good to see you enjoying what all the work got you.
  19. Here is a simple test, jack the car up and let the rear hang down. Measure the extended length of the shock vs the total extended length. If they are very close the shock is topping out under power. My guess that roughness you felt was the shocks topped out. I ran the 44130's on mine, on the street for a bit and track with the stock springs. The stock springs are just not ideal for this application. You are encountering the same issues I did when I started taking mine to the track. I didn't have as much fun street driving, car shows as I did racing so I went that way.
  20. Lol it is going back together. A cage, new quarters and paint. Another couple months we should be at it again.
  21. One thing I have found, if you have reasearched engine builders, you can usually find at least one guy that has had a problem. No matter how large or small they are.
  22. I used FPS for my engine several years ago. I bought it with the intention of street driving and ended up racing it. We swapped the hyd. roller for a solid roller cam and some valve train work. Went a best of 9.80 @ 136 on pump gas. Very happy with mine. They were very easy to deal with. There are plenty of options out there.
  23. Way to go on your new best pass!
×
×
  • Create New...