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Docwok: Unfortunately, I did not take pics during the installation and disassembly now is not an option. The bracket I fabricated is a different shape and configuration than the one by MTF. Mine spans the entire length from the back side of the door pillar gusset to the the wheel house flange fastened along the sides and bottom of the bracket. My thinking is that the force of the retractor locking in a frontal impact will pull the retractor mount straight up as the forward motion of the occupant will transfer the load from the roof mount pivot bracket to the retractor reel below. Looking at the floor mount for aftermarket retractors, I see a suggested method that uses one or two thicknesses of sheet metal and one large round fender washer. If the force of the frontal impact is enough to overcome my reel bracket, I would expect that the car would be so deformed that survival would be unlikely. I am not an engineer so do your own due diligence and risk assessment before attempting a modification such as this one.

This is where we place them

To add to the mix, I chose the Scott Drake belts due to the similarity with the factory deluxe belt buckles. However, I really did not like the idea of having the exposed retractor reel on the floor behind the seat. I ended up fabricating a bracket for the rear bulkhead inside the fiberglass rear quarter trim panels. From there I had to cut a slot in the rear armrest area for the belt to pass into the interior. I finished off the slot with a trim piece off of a Corvette. Looks like a factory stock installation to the casual observer and no retractor on the floor.

A road racing engine would perform differently than a street strip type engine so you should determine exactly what type of driving/performance is most important to you. As the saying goes., "There is no replacement for displacement". The bigger the engine, the less it has to rev to make power. Some people prefer high revving crappy idling small blocks while others prefer low revving good idling torque monsters so it would help if you let people know which type you prefer more. A 351 cubed, non stroked Windsor can be built to run pretty strong without having extremely poor idle quality and without having to rev to 7000 rpm. Obviously, if you stroke it, it will make more power. You also need to consider gear ratios. The smaller the engine, the numerically higher the gear ratio needs to be for decent acceleration, so if you don't have an overdrive trans and use like 3.50 gears or numerically higher, the engine will be revving fairly high which can get annoying on long drives not to mention it will wear it out a little sooner as well. The power is in the heads. Cheap heads do not flow nearly as well as expensive heads like AFR's but cheap heads will still make more power than stock ones so you also need to determine how much you want to pay for the power you want so to speak. Unless you are a recreational drag racer or just like to roast the bejesus out of your tires a lot, the Chinese heads will work fine although I would run good springs and change the rocker studs.