barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 23, 2017 Imho, if your shims or old adhesive is a snug fit no jig is needed. The sides and bottom of the bracket will automatically align with the glass. Yes but he has yellow weatherstripping glue which means they were repaired before and this also means that even if the brackets still fit tight, they could very well have been reinstalled at the wrong angle, therefore, in his case, it is likely that he is best off doing exactly what I suggested and clean the entire track out and start from scratch but it's impossible to say with 100% certainty without actually having the parts in my hands so I can see what is going on , however, imo, it is the safest thing for him to do, but again, as I mentioned, I don't suggest that anyone try this if they have no previous experience doing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Well Guys, here it is, the window jig, with measurements. Couple 2x4 & 2x6's, screws, plumb ball, workmate, and some good ole Yankee ingenuity from a fifth generation Texan. Next step, remove to make paper shims as Barnett suggested, apply glue, install glass into brackets making sure they are seated all the way in channel, clamp, and then shim to correct angle using some nylon toilet shims. Thoughts? 2 RPM and Raven R code reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 lol, wow, you are definitely on a mission . that's all xlnt and i'm guessing at this point you have a good idea of what we were trying to explain about lining the brackets up with the glass and each other etc . i'm very curious as to exactly how the factory did this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Brackets marked, glass roughed up, paper shims in, and glass centered in bottom of channel. Glue as used on WCCC can be ordered thru Oreily Auto Parts Will glue tomorrow evening, stay tuned.......same bat time, same bat channel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 I may have found that answer out tonight, "how the factory did it". On the 69 coupe window brackets, which I was able to remove the glass fairly easy and will be using. It appeared to have never been re-glued and had white deterioted plastic pieces on the ends of the channels that were embedded into the old black glue. The real test of my jig will be on the passenger side with bare channels and paper shims Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 the glass does not go directly against the bottom of the bracket . it is spaced up slightly by the factory rubber insert . if you space it up around 1/8" it will be fine . dont put glue on the very bottom of the channel as it will be hard to force it out when pushing the glass down into the channel . i put glue in the channel only and not on the window . it the glue comes up more than around 1/4 above the top of the bracket i remove it before it hardens to insure it does not interfere with anything. put the glue in the refrigerator for an hour first . this will extend the working time . if it sets up before your glass is completely in place you are screwed . i think he used glass glue which sets up withing around 5 minutes and is hard enough after an hour to install the window but it should have instructions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Dually Noted. Thank you very much for your input and direction Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Dually Noted. Thank you very much for your input and direction no prob, you're welcome . i'm sure everyone here is prayin for ya, lol . it's just one of those jobs that you only get one shot at it and it is more likely to fail than succeed and it is not for the faint of heart. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 put the glue in the refrigerator for an hour first . this will extend the working time. Huh. I've been working with two part glue for a hundred years and usually wanted it to set up sooner. Never ever thought of the fridge to extend the drying time though. I have used the fridge to keep brushes and rollers from drying between coats of house paint. Clever trick Barnett, thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Huh. I've been working with two part glue for a hundred years and usually wanted it to set up sooner. Never ever thought of the fridge to extend the drying time though. I have used the fridge to keep brushes and rollers from drying between coats of house paint. Clever trick Barnett, thanks. both the window glass glue and the glue i use sets up fairly quickly . the glue i use can start to set up after around 2-3 minutes to a point where the bracket can no longer be moved on the glass . the hotter it is outside the faster it sets up . ask me how i know, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 The best product I've used for years is Essix 418 urethane. I also put the brackets in the vise and squeeze them tighter which eliminates the need for shims. This take at leat 48 hours to cure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 26, 2017 Glass is done! Fri pm and Sat am were a cool 35-45 degrees outside so fridge wasn't needed. Jig worked like a champ and both pieces are in the car, working, and adjusted. Couple tips not on the wccc video; Pic shows where I found dropping in brackets was a breeze Using a 16" 2x4 in center first to install C brackets Using 2- 12" long boards to hold window up while installing regulator Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 27, 2017 xlnt congrats did you use the paper shims i mentioned? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 27, 2017 Couple tips not on the wccc video; Pic shows where I found dropping in brackets was a breeze Using a 16" 2x4 in center first to install C brackets Using 2- 12" long boards to hold window up while installing regulator i put a rag on the edge of the window then vise grip it at the elevation i want it . the vice grips rest in the rag on top of the door edge preventing it from falling down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 27, 2017 Yes, used the paper shims. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Hey Casey, I'm about ready to glue in my glass. When you took the plumb bob measurements of 3" & 2-5/8" of the glass and bracket, do you remember the distance from the front or rear edge of the glass from which you measured? I would think the plumb bob distance would vary based on that location. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 On 2/21/2017 at 7:47 AM, rockhouse66 said: I used this stuff; http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Automotive/Aftermarket/Products/~/3M-Channel-Bonding-and-Sidelite-Adhesive-08641-47-3-mL-6-per-case?N=3294532134&rt=d I would not recommend epoxy for door glass! It will shatter the glass on a hot day. Experience can be heartbreaking! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Bob, I do not have that measurement, but if brackets are vert straight, then it shouldn't matter . Glass is straight as well as where it hits the w strip Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Ordered the glue, like used on Cougar video, fro oreillys. Made the gun like he did also Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Thanks Casey, I've got the glue, gun, glass and brackets ready. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Good luck Bob, glue sets up pretty quick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Ya, I'm going to put the glue in the ice box per Barnett, we shall see. Good thing is we've got a cooling trend going, so it's a brisk 98° here. I was able to find a piece of the original plastic spacer which snaps into the front and rear of the glass channel to center the glass. It measured .065" thick on each side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 The 3M is still a rock hard Epoxy that has no give. It's really no different than their old mixing cups that would never hold up, that's why we use urethane. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 Again as a reminder.....I would stay away from any glue that dries to a rock hard state like epoxy. I know 2 people that tried that in the 90's and they both shattered. Urethane sounds like the better choice . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 11, 2017 The glue we be talk'en about (3M) stays pliable, similar to flubber without the bounce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites