sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 19, 2017 Building a 302 roller engine and after emailing Comp Cams about what I was looking for they suggested I get the 35-430-8. I will be running an 8.8 rear with either 3:55 or 3:73 gears. Hopefully will be putting a 4R70W in at the same time and will probably use an F150 torque converter which I read somewhere has a 2400 stall. I will be mostly cruising with the car but hoping to get into a little bit of road racing. I have long tubes, 1.6 roller rocker arms on mostly stock heads (a little porting), and ran a Holley 600 carb in the past. My question is, would the Ford E303 cam be an ok cam? I am broke right now so looking to get by a little cheaper than the Comp setup and I found an E303 for $100. I have read quite a bit about the Ford E303 and it seems like it would suffice but wanted more opinions. 9 napedVem, MicahDex, Siburthuts and 6 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted February 19, 2017 I use an X303 in my 351W and am happy with it. Alot of people don't like these cams becuase they have a straight pattern (same specs on intake and exhaust). They are made by Crane so the quality is good. The E303 is a little more mild than the 35-430-8. You might want to get an opinion from Ford Racing Tech. They have been helpfull to me in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 19, 2017 I use an X303 in my 351W and am happy with it. Alot of people don't like these cams becuase they have a straight pattern (same specs on intake and exhaust). They are made by Crane so the quality is good. The E303 is a little more mild than the 35-430-8. You might want to get an opinion from Ford Racing Tech. They have been helpfull to me in the past. Thanks. I will give them a call this week. I was planning on calling anyways to get advice on springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 19, 2017 Comp specs: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl35-430-8 Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,500-6,000 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 280 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280 Advertised Duration: 280 int./280 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 int./0.560 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees): 110 Ford E303 specs: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6250-E303 Duration int. 282° Duration exh. 282° Lift .498 Lobe Separation 110° Duration at .050 lift is 220 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 Both of those cams are bad choices for your set up . The comp cam tech that suggested that cam is an idiot. Also, you need around 9.5 - 10.0 compression and between .034" and 043" of quench/squish clearance. There is WAY more to building an engine PROPERLY than just throwing a cam in it. It might also be helpful if you told us what intake you are running. What do you mean by an F150 stall converter? An F150 is a truck. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
machm1970 180 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 There's a pretty big difference in those 2 cams. I had an E303 in an '84 Mustang I built a few years ago. It had GT40 heads, shorty headers, a Performer intake and Edelbrock 600. I was pretty happy with it, nice idle and decent power throughout the RPM range. Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 774 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 I used a B-303 in my roller cam 5.0 in my 1968 coupe. I have a T5z with 3.73 gears. I am using GT-40 cast iron heads, and Tri-Y headers. I used 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley Street Avenger 570 cfm carburetor. My ignition is a 1985 Mustang GT Duraspark II. I picked the B-303 based on a conversation with the Ford Tech line. I am very happy with the performance and the sound of the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 First, thanks to everyone for the advice. I was looking specifically at the E303 cam because I found one very cheap. Both of those cams are bad choices for your set up . The comp cam tech that suggested that cam is an idiot. Also, you need around 9.5 - 10.0 compression and between .034" and 043" of quench/squish clearance. There is WAY more to building an engine PROPERLY than just throwing a cam in it. It might also be helpful if you told us what intake you are running. What do you mean by an F150 stall converter? An F150 is a truck. . Barnett, I know that there is a lot more to building an engine than throwing a cam in it. I am not an expert, and that is the reason for posting for advice. Some more info: I was running the Edelbrock Performer Intake with the Performer Cam before taking a lobe out. The engine is bored .030 over and I have SpeedPro flat top pistons. I do not know if I will stick with the same intake though as switching the intake is a lot cheaper than the cam. I am well aware that an F150 is a truck. The F150 also came with the 4R70W transmission. In those transmissions I read somewhere that it has a 2400 rpm stall converter. If what I read is wrong on that feel free to point me in the right direction. Let me know if any other info is helpful. If neither cam is good; what would be good? In the end if a better cam is significantly more money than the E303 at $100, I might just get the E303 and run that till I have more money to put into the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 That converter will work, and you may find it either a little tighter or little looser than 2400 on the flash side. Flash or (Stall) is influenced a lot by what kinda power the motor makes when it comes to putting stock converters in. A custom converter will run you a lot more money but it will be built to your engine/driveline and car specifications. I am actually going to be going back to a stock stall on my 4R70W simply because the last 2 times the company that built my converter has built it to loose for my liking...The car actually feels much slower with the looser converter LOL. The Alphabet cams were good for their time and made cam selection a lot easier, and a LOT of people still run them but there are so many better grinds out there. If your strapped for cash I say use the Alphabet cam you can get at a good price. The cam the Comp Tech recommended for you seems way to damn big for your combo, hence Barnetts comment I believe. Stockish heads and alum intake with light stall and the gear you are running I would shoot for something in the 215/220@.50 Duration range and keep the lift down around .450/.500 or so with a LSA in the 110/112 range. Especially if you wanna run power brakes.... If I had to choose between the Alphabet cam and the Comp cam, I would likely go with the Alphabet as it would be a better match to your parts than the Comp cam would... 2 barnett468 and sixt9stang reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 First, thanks to everyone for the advice. I was looking specifically at the E303 cam because I found one very cheap. In the end if a better cam is significantly more money than the E303 at $100, I might just get the E303 and run that till I have more money to put into the car. Where did you find an E303 cam for only $100.00? The next cheapest roller cam is from Comp. If you aren't going to spend at least around $230.00 for a cam then the specs are irrelevant and you should buy the $100.00 E303 cam you found. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 I would imagine the E-Cam he found is something someone had sitting on a shelf at home that never made it into their motor or was installed and run and replaced...It is a Hyd Roller so if its used chances are it is just fine in any event... But that's just a guess Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 You are correct. I am told it was ran for 600 miles and then pulled. What would be a decent combo for cruising and a little bit of road racing? I was thinking of upgrading to a dual plane intake in the future also. With the Edelbrock performer intake and cam the car was very strong but floated the valves above 5800 rpm so I don't want to run into that situation again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 20, 2017 Sounds like it just needs some better springs to keep the valves under control with that same cam. Dual plane intake may help a bit if you go with the Alphabet cam.. If you buy the used cam just check all of the lobes to be sure they are good to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 hope the gear on the used cam is still good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Should be able to tell from the pictures if the gear is good or not. I would love to hear your opinion though on what you would run on a small budget. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Should be able to tell from the pictures if the gear is good or not. only if it is high resolution and you know exactly what you are looking for Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 I would love to hear your opinion though on what you would run on a small budget. Well that's a complicated question because it depends on what you mean by a "small budget" . Does it mean you have $100.00, $200.00, or $300.00 for a cam? Sounds like you may need valve springs also, therefore, if that is the case, do you want a high perf cam that will float the valves or do you want better valves with the cam you have or do you want both? It all comes down to how much money you have and type of performance you want, and since I don't know how much money you have and what type of perf you want and don't know how far down below the surface of the block your pistons are there is no way for me or anyone else to really give a good answer to this question. There are a lot of very intelligent people on this site but I don't think there are many that are psychic. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 I am mainly looking for what cam or specs would work for what I am looking for. So mostly fun cruising and hopefully a little road racing. You had said the two cams were not good, would you be able to suggest one that would be good ignoring other aspects. I can figure out the piston to valve clearance and other things. Mostly looking for what might be a good setup in the future for when I have money. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 I missed the E303 cam. Looking at the following cams that are close to specs that Mike mentioned above. Stockish heads and alum intake with light stall and the gear you are running I would shoot for something in the215/220@.50 Duration range and keep the lift down around .450/.500 or so with a LSA in the 110/112 range.Especially if you wanna run power brakes....If I had to choose between the Alphabet cam and the Comp cam, I would likely go with the Alphabet as it would be a better match to your parts than the Comp cam would... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-3722/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-440-8/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-444231/recommendedparts/make/ford?prefilter=1 I will have to save up some more before ordering but I am really looking for advice so that I can start gathering parts to get my engine put back together and I greatly appreciate all the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 the cams with 114 lsa will not have a hard hit . they will have a slightly soft/smooth powerband but are still decent cams. with 9.5 - 10.0 compression and good valve springs https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220235-10/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-221275-12/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-51403001/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-349-8/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-351-8/overview/make/ford https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-15520/overview/make/ford Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Thanks! I will start checking those out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Did I miss something? Are the stock cylinder heads being used? If so, what also needs to be considered are the valve springs. You can only fit a single spring with a damper on a small block Ford cylinder head in stock configuration. This limits your cam choices. Many performance hydraulic roller cams require a double valve spring. Those will not fit without machine work to the valve guides. Whatever cam is bing installed the valve springs will need to be replaced. Ford Racing use to sell a drop in repacement single with damper valve springs and retainers to be used with their hydraulic roller cams. I haven't checked recently to see if they still sell them. I'd stear away from Comp as they typically have more agressive lobe profiles and want double valve springs for their hyd. roller cams. Just something to keep in mind when everybody is offering cam selection advise. You need to be certain there is a drop in replacement valve spring that will work with whatever cam is selected. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Yeah we mentioned a VS upgrade earlier... Its always good to get a set of springs that are matched to the proposed camshaft. And Barnett is right about the wider LSA of 113-114 not hitting as hard, it will have a much smoother sounding idle which will also constitute a much smoother idling motor usually that wont shake the car LOL. My Hyd roller in my 408 is pretty small and I had it ground on a 113LSA I believe and it is noticeable but not near as noticeable as a lot of smaller cams with tighter LSA. It also has a nice Torque curve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 Did I miss something? Are the stock cylinder heads being used? yes, slightly modified stock cyl heads of unknown combustion chamber size with valves that purportedly float. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted February 21, 2017 I have to look at the heads that I have more. They are not the original '69 heads as I got them from a buddy that had put screw in studs and did some other work to them. I will get some pictures and maybe some measurements so that maybe I can get some help on springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
