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tonyinsandiego

Horn doesn't blow when rim blow switch depressed.

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Horn isn't working.  Here is what I do know.  Horn will work if I remove the steering wheel and short out the little brushes making contact with the steering wheel.  The steering wheel has the rim blow horn and it makes contact from the rim switch to the screw terminals.  The problem has to be after the screw terminals or the contact of the ring and brushes.  Has anyone had an issue with this before?  I did not check the continuity between the ring and the rim blow screw terminals.  If that's the case, then my entire steering wheel could be shot,

 

Suggestions....

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I think the ring he is referring to is the ring or contact plate on the back of the wheel that the contacts ride on.

 

I would disconnect the battery and use an Ohm meter to confirm continuity at the 2 screws that the rimblow sw wires attach while activating the rimblow.

 

Larry

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I do have continuity at the terminal contacts,  This tells me my rim blow switch is working.  I had the steering wheel off and I didn't check continuity between the  screw contacts from the rim blow (wire leads) and the contact plate (what I was calling a ring).  You're right, I was referring to the back of the wheel the contacts ride.  I know the rim blow steering wheel isn't the best design but it's a nice novelty.  Thanks for the help.  Not really understanding why this isn't working.  I could have a build up of crap on the contact plate.  I tried cleaning this with acetone and super fine scotch bright . 

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Disconnect the horn at the radiator support and put a voltmeter between the connector and chassis. You should get 12V when someone presses the horn. If you do, you're ok electrically. Try giving the horn a few whacks with a rubber mallet or spray some penetrating oil down inside it. They tend to freeze up/corrode after years of non-use.

If you don't get 12V, there's probably an open somewhere in your switch or harness.

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6 minutes ago, 69RavenConv said:

Disconnect the horn at the radiator support and put a voltmeter between the connector and chassis. You should get 12V when someone presses the horn. If you do, you're ok electrically. Try giving the horn a few whacks with a rubber mallet or spray some penetrating oil down inside it. They tend to freeze up/corrode after years of non-use.

If you don't get 12V, there's probably an open somewhere in your switch or harness.

My horn hasn't worked since I bought the car in 2010.  It is an original rim blow steering wheel (unknown if it is original to my specific car or not.)  I replaced the rim blow switch over the weekend (2nd time.  1st time I ruined the switch!)  This time I'm pretty confident I didn't mess up the switch.  I scraped or filed all rough spots in the "track" that the switch goes in, then used dish soap to lube it up so it would slide in easier.  Push on the switch, and nothing.

Now if I take the wheel off and take the screws out of the ends of the wire and touch them to the contact points on the inside of the steering column and push the horn switch, the horns work.  So, I thinking either something is missing, or worn down too much to make contact somewhere.

Anyone else have this issue and fix it?

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Sounds like the contact rings on the bottom side of the steering wheel are worn.  I don't think that part can be replaced on the Rim Blow steering wheel.  I haven't seen that part being reproduced.  With any luck, it's worn contact buttons that are part of the turn signal switch which is easily replaced.

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One of the problems with the setup is there are too many connections (I count about 9 and your allowed .2v each).   I had 11.5v at the horns and they would not work.  If I jumped direct to the battery they work.  Solution is to install a relay which it should of  had in the first place and use the horn circuit to activate the coil side of the relay.

 

Power the relay with a fuse off the positive battery lug of the soleniod

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