1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted December 27, 2016 None of my gauges have ever worked and I have not messed with them at all. I have aftermarket temp, oil and amp gauges where the radio used to be. But I'd like to get the cluster working. I haven't pulled the cluster out yet, but I am thinking of pulling it and refurbishing it in the basement over the winter. Is it possible to test the gauges with the cluster out of the car? Be nice to have it all done with working gauges before spring. thanks 5 ProgonMom, JdasonAnowl, doledVem and 2 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 28, 2016 Most aftermarket gauges are three wires: ground, power, and signal. You can test each gauge by providing ground and power using a 9V transistor battery, then briefly attach a ground lead to the signal post: the gauge should peg high. On stock gauges, do the same thing but there is no ground lead: apply power to the post that has power coming from the CVR and briefly ground the signal post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted December 28, 2016 Mid mentioned briefly, just a minute, to see the needle move. Also, do not expect the ampmeter to work, none of them ever did, even on new cars. if you have problems, the odds are it is the CVR or flexstrip, or ground connection. The last thing to be a problem is probably the gauge. This is especially true if 2 or 3 of them do not work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted December 28, 2016 I had planned on just swapping out the flexstrip. Was just hoping to verify the gauges work or not. If not I'd just changes those also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 29, 2016 Good luck on swapping the circuit card. I have had many customers complain that they had to go through 2 or 3 of them before one worked. That's why I offer hard-wiring the 69/70 dash clusters: see http://midlifeharness.com/products.html 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted December 29, 2016 What all do I need to send you for that service? Which parts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted December 29, 2016 Regarding ammeters, I purchased a good used one from Perogie recently because the pointer on the original ammeter never moved. This one works. I get some needle movement when turning on headlights, etc. When I purchased it Perogie also had NOS ammeters for Mach 1's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 29, 2016 What all do I need to send you for that service? Which parts? You have two choices: (1) I provide the dash cluster harness with a quick disconnect and a matching connector and wire pigtails. You are responsible for splicing in the existing dash cluster wires into the pigtails. (2) Send in your underdash harness for refurbishment and I'll do the conversion plus provide the dash cluster harness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted December 29, 2016 How does a new circuit panel fail? They are so simple. I've only swapped out two on different instrument panels. Never had any issues. Maybe people are not paying attention to the connections and making certain they are clean. Attaching old dirty 46+ year old connectors into the new printed circuit panel expecting all to be okay. Or bending the circuit panel and breaking a conductor. Sorry to sound negative, but that just seems like an unusual strange problem to occur. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted December 30, 2016 I don't have good answers for you, as I never saw the bad boards; only reporting what my customers tell me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites