Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Does anyone with a 428 ever notice how the holes in the main bearings don't totally match up to the oil journal holes? I think the same goes for the crank bearings too. Question: I'm going to do a partial tear down on my engine to replace head gaskets and miscellaneous seals. Should I go as far as taking the main bearings out to open the bearing holes( and Champher the holes)? Keeping in mind they would go back in their original location. The motor has 11k miles on it and runs fine. I just don't no how far I can tear down without any ill effects or harm. I was told that some of the mismatched oil holes only let 30% of the oil thru. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 That's one reason why my 428CJ motor died. I've made all the mods to block now in the rebuild process. The 1UB crank that was in it was so far out of alignment it now serves the purpose of a door stop, that's all it is good for. This book by Barry will help explain a lot of it if you don't have it already. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-How-to-Build-Max-Performance-Ford-FE-Engines-by-Barry-Rabotnick-Paperback-Bo-/151537829598?hash=item23485bc6de:g:XL8AAOSwNyFWd4CR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Got th book on order. In the mean time.....all opinions would be appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Dang! This was supposed to be posted under technical......can it be moved? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Do NOT modify the bearings . Modify the holes in the block with a grinder and the holes facing downward to keep metal out of the passages. Put a number 70 holey main jet in the oil port for the rockers. Taper the rear oil drain back hole in the block slightly with a drill. Use what is sometimes referred to as a Cobra Jet oil filter adapter. Seill the hole from the adapter mounting boss t the oil galley 1 size larger. radius/chamfer the hole in the block the oil pump lines up with so it is the same size as the pump. chamfer the two oil holes in the oil filter adapter pad. run sufficient crank and rod clearance use 1/2 grooved bearings. use oil with 1250 to 1600 ppm of ZDDP or ZDDB after break in. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Barnnet, Great info! Curious tho....why not drill out the bearings themselves ? Also, a little more info on the cobra jet oil filter adapter? Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Barnnet, Great info! Curious tho....why not drill out the bearings themselves ? Also, a little more info on the cobra jet oil filter adapter? Dave Modifying the bearing increases the potential for the babbit to lift or for you to damage them during modification, plus is moves the oil closer to the outside of the bearing which can allow it to run out of the side of the bearing easier etc. std on left . cj on right Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Lots of info available on the 428 oiling system. Picture above; 3/8's" on the Left and 1/2" on the right. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Great info!! Keep it coming! So it looks like I can get away with some modifications without a total rebuild......cool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 Modifying the bearing increases the potential for the babbit to lift or for you to damage them during modification, plus is moves the oil closer to the outside of the bearing which can allow it to run out of the side of the bearing easier etc. std on left . cj on right So if I have a cobra jet.....does it automatically mean I have the one on the right? Or do I still need to find one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 So if I have a cobra jet.....does it automatically mean I have the one on the right? Or do I still need to find one? All 69 and 70 428 cobra jets had the cj adapter, HOWEVER, unless you bought your car brand new, you need to check it because it may have been changed sometime in the last 45 years . If you need one, they can often be found on Ebay and aren't very expensive. 1 Raven R code reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 23, 2016 And a high volume pump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 I love Barry's book. Very good read for sure. I consulted with him when I was looking for a cam. Can't wait to hear her run soon. Bruce 1 Raven R code reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 Me too, Bruce. And I have read Jay's intake book just as much if not more. Love the detail in it. I have gained a lot from those two books. You far off from hitting the go button now? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 So....is it safe to say then that I can safely remove each main cap and connecting rod bearing for inspection and make necessary changes to the journal openings? Do I need to remove one at a time or is it safe to remove them all to the point where the crank can come out? I know if is very important to mark everything and put everything back in it original location and orientation. Sorry if some of this is redundant .....but ist kind of my "measure twice, cut once" mentality while I wait for the FE bible to show up. Mental preparation is everything! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 You said earlier the motor has 11,000 miles on it and runs fine. Two things come to mind; at the last re-build the crank probably had the holes opened up and if it ain't broke... Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 Brian, the last rebuild(or build ) was done at the factory when she was built in 69. I replaced most of the gaskets when I opened it up at 3,100 miles back in 1987. I figure it's time to do some preventative maintenance . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 Ahhh, ok, your not rebuilding your engine. Do NOT get a grinder anywhere near it. As mentioned, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Use oil with high zddp content. There is a bit of a story as to why the oil holes don't line up perfectly, and unless you are racing it, there is no need to modify them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 I was wondering why you mentioned to start chamfering oil passages on a motor that wasn't headed for a complete rebuild. Glad you caught it. I thought to myself, I guess Raven R Code will eventually realize that block has to be completely disassembled and cleaned in a spray jet washer or something like that after taking a grinder to the oil passages. Then still scrub the oil passages to be certain they are clean. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 While you have it apart,I would recommend taking measures with the heads for running on unleaded pump gas fuel. The four most common are below; 1. Have hardened seats put in the heads 2. Take your original heads off and pack in oil, then put on some aftermarket quality aluminum heads 3. Run a lead substitute 4. Run leaded racing fuel or add racing fuel to pump gas. I am doing #3 at the moment, but I'm saving for some aluminum heads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 24, 2016 I was wondering why you mentioned to start chamfering oil passages on a motor that wasn't headed for a complete rebuild. Glad you caught it. I thought to myself, I guess Raven R Code will eventually realize that block has to be completely disassembled and cleaned in a spray jet washer or something like that after taking a grinder to the oil passages. Then still scrub the oil passages to be certain they are clean. I shouldn't read while I'm sleepy, lol. 1 Raven R code reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 25, 2016 Me too, Bruce. And I have read Jay's intake book just as much if not more. Love the detail in it. I have gained a lot from those two books. You far off from hitting the go button now? Well, I would have had the last few pieces to start it months ago if my other vehicle didn't start giving me fits. If all goes well I will buy the radiator next month. Then I think I have everything to start the engine and see if she drives. Since everything has been rebuilt with this project. Excited to hear how she sounds. With those FPA Tri-y's, that aluminum Shelby GT500 Intake, the cam, the port work I did, the roller rockers, and the ignition. I hope she will be a real beast. How are things down under buddy? I did not make it down there this year for Almond harvest. Oh well. B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted August 25, 2016 Getting close, Bruce. Be sure to share once she is running! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 25, 2016 Oh yeah, video will be posted. I was hoping to get her running and get her to an exhaust shop before this winter, but I think the exhaust will have to wait to next summer. B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 29, 2016 Talked to one of the best FE builders in the NE today. I'm going to bring him the bare block and he is going to drill and champher the oil journal behind the filter mount and the same for the mains and rod journals. $200 and 2 days to do. The filter hole will be opened up to 5/8". Then he will was and clean the block properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites