~1969 428 CJ main bearings.

[Raven R code 281]

Does anyone with a 428 ever notice how the holes in the main bearings don't totally match up to the oil journal holes? I think the same goes for the crank bearings too.

 

Question: I'm going to do a partial tear down on my engine to replace head gaskets and miscellaneous seals. Should I go as far as taking the main bearings out to open the bearing holes( and Champher the holes)? Keeping in mind they would go back in their original location. The motor has 11k miles on it and runs fine. I just don't no how far I can tear down without any ill effects or harm. I was told that some of the mismatched oil holes only let 30% of the oil thru.

[Ash 145]

That's one reason why my 428CJ motor died. I've made all the mods to block now in the rebuild process. The 1UB crank that was in it was so far out of alignment it now serves the purpose of a door stop, that's all it is good for.

 

This book by Barry will help explain a lot of it if you don't have it already.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-How-to-Build-Max-Performance-Ford-FE-Engines-by-Barry-Rabotnick-Paperback-Bo-/151537829598?hash=item23485bc6de:g:XL8AAOSwNyFWd4CR

[Raven R code 281]

Got th book on order.

 

In the mean time.....all opinions would be appreciated.

[Raven R code 281]

Dang! This was supposed to be posted under technical......can it be moved?

[barnett468 418]

Do NOT modify the bearings . Modify the holes in the block with a grinder and the holes facing downward to keep metal out of the passages.

 

Put a number 70 holey main jet in the oil port for the rockers.

 

Taper the rear oil drain back hole in the block slightly with a drill.

 

Use what is sometimes referred to as a Cobra Jet oil filter adapter.

 

Seill the hole from the adapter mounting boss t the oil galley 1 size larger.

 

radius/chamfer the hole in the block the oil pump lines up with so it is the same size as the pump.

 

chamfer the two oil holes in the oil filter adapter pad.

 

run sufficient crank and rod clearance

 

use 1/2 grooved bearings.

 

use oil with 1250 to 1600 ppm of ZDDP or ZDDB after break in.

.

[Raven R code 281]

Barnnet, Great info!

Curious tho....why not drill out the bearings themselves ? Also, a little more info on the cobra jet oil filter adapter?

 

Dave

[barnett468 418]

Barnnet, Great info!

Curious tho....why not drill out the bearings themselves ? Also, a little more info on the cobra jet oil filter adapter?

 

Dave

 

 

Modifying the bearing increases the potential for the babbit to lift or for you to damage them during modification, plus is moves the oil closer to the outside of the bearing which can allow it to run out of the side of the bearing easier etc.

 

std on left . cj on right

 

[Brian Conway 264]

Lots of info available on the 428 oiling system. Picture above; 3/8's" on the Left and 1/2" on the right.  Brian

[Raven R code 281]

Great info!! Keep it coming!

 

So it looks like I can get away with some modifications without a total rebuild......cool.

[Raven R code 281]

Modifying the bearing increases the potential for the babbit to lift or for you to damage them during modification, plus is moves the oil closer to the outside of the bearing which can allow it to run out of the side of the bearing easier etc.

 

std on left . cj on right

 

So if I have a cobra jet.....does it automatically mean I have the one on the right? Or do I still need to find one?

[barnett468 418]

So if I have a cobra jet.....does it automatically mean I have the one on the right? Or do I still need to find one?

 

All 69 and 70 428 cobra jets had the cj adapter, HOWEVER, unless you bought your car brand new, you need to check it because it may have been changed sometime in the last 45 years . If you need one, they can often be found on Ebay and aren't very expensive.

[Caseyrhe 650]

And a high volume pump.

[LindenBruce 27]

I love Barry's book.  Very good read for sure.  I consulted with him when I was looking for a cam.  Can't wait to hear her run soon.  Bruce

[Ash 145]

Me too, Bruce. And I have read Jay's intake book just as much if not more. Love the detail in it. I have gained a lot from those two books.

 

You far off from hitting the go button now?

[Raven R code 281]

So....is it safe to say then that I can safely remove each main cap and connecting rod bearing for inspection and make necessary changes to the journal openings? Do I need to remove one at a time or is it safe to remove them all to the point where the crank can come out? I know if is very important to mark everything and put everything back in it original location and orientation.

 

Sorry if some of this is redundant .....but ist kind of my "measure twice, cut once" mentality while I wait for the FE bible to show up.

 

Mental preparation is everything! Thanks!

[Brian Conway 264]

You said earlier the motor has 11,000 miles on it and runs fine.  Two things come to mind; at the last re-build the crank probably had the holes opened up and if it ain't broke...  Brian

[Raven R code 281]

Brian, the last rebuild(or build ) was done at the factory when she was built in 69. I replaced most of the gaskets when I opened it up at 3,100 miles back in 1987. I figure it's time to do some preventative maintenance .

[barnett468 418]

Ahhh, ok, your not rebuilding your engine.

 

Do NOT get a grinder anywhere near it.

 

As mentioned, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Use oil with high zddp content.

 

There is a bit of a story as to why the oil holes don't line up perfectly, and unless you are racing it, there is no need to modify them.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I was wondering why you mentioned to start chamfering oil passages on a motor that wasn't headed for a complete rebuild.  Glad you caught it.  I thought to myself, I guess Raven R Code will eventually realize that block has to be completely disassembled and cleaned in a spray jet washer or something like that after taking a grinder to the oil passages.  Then still scrub the oil passages to be certain they are clean. 

[jholmes217 65]

While you have it apart,I would recommend taking measures with the heads for running on unleaded pump gas fuel.  The four most common are below;

 

1.  Have hardened seats put in the heads

2.  Take your original heads off and pack in oil, then put on some aftermarket quality aluminum heads

3.  Run a lead substitute

4.  Run leaded racing fuel or add racing fuel to pump gas.

 

I am doing #3 at the moment, but I'm saving for some aluminum heads.

[barnett468 418]

I was wondering why you mentioned to start chamfering oil passages on a motor that wasn't headed for a complete rebuild.  Glad you caught it.  I thought to myself, I guess Raven R Code will eventually realize that block has to be completely disassembled and cleaned in a spray jet washer or something like that after taking a grinder to the oil passages.  Then still scrub the oil passages to be certain they are clean. 

 

I shouldn't read while I'm sleepy, lol.

[LindenBruce 27]

Me too, Bruce. And I have read Jay's intake book just as much if not more. Love the detail in it. I have gained a lot from those two books.

 

You far off from hitting the go button now?

Well, I would have had the last few pieces to start it months ago if my other vehicle didn't start giving me fits. If all goes well I will buy the radiator next month.  Then I think I have everything to start the engine and see if she drives.  Since everything has been rebuilt with this project.  Excited to hear how she sounds. 

 

With those FPA Tri-y's, that aluminum Shelby GT500 Intake, the cam, the port work I did, the roller rockers, and the ignition.  I hope she will be a real beast.  How are things down under buddy?  I did not make it down there this year for Almond harvest.  Oh well.  B.

[Ash 145]

Getting close, Bruce. Be sure to share once she is running!

[LindenBruce 27]

Oh yeah, video will be posted.  I was hoping to get her running and get her to an exhaust shop before this winter, but I think the exhaust will have to wait to next summer. B.

[Raven R code 281]

Talked to one of the best FE builders in the NE today. I'm going to bring him the bare block and he is going to drill and champher the oil journal behind the filter mount and the same for the mains and rod journals. $200 and 2 days to do. The filter hole will be opened up to 5/8". Then he will was and clean the block properly.