Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
prayers1

Should I build a 408W or 408C, a little wordy

Recommended Posts

I think with most people including myself  have been trained to go .030 need it or not on a car block.

Which makes no sense for me.. I do a lot of power sports motors and never bore more than needed.. 

But I do it anyway on my cars....Maybe were looking for the most CID and not thinking if something went wrong..

When something  go's  wrong on a car motor it is normally way more than just boring it .010 over to fix it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not if something goes wrong.  I agree, at that point 0.010" won't make a difference.  The cylinder walls are already relatively thin.  And at 0.030" if there was any core shift during the casting process, it further increases the possiblity of heating issues.  To me it just makes no reasonable sense to bore more than needed to gain a couple cubic inches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wives`tales and mind set can be very hard to change if not impossible.. I deal with it daily.

On some of the simplest things...My buddy told me ----------..(Now its the truth)

I ask them if he knows so much why are you here?

As with many I have fallen into the trap but not so much anymore.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am implying that i to have fallen into the you must bore it .030 if you are going bore a car motor and i know better.

Life has always been just like dealing with the internet beleave what you want but it dosent make it right..

 

You are right on the boring thing....Implying nothing towards you..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is all new to me about how to figure how much to bore a cylinder.

 

The machinist said you first figure how much out of round the cylinder is, in my case the worst  one was #1 it was 0.15 out, he said then you have to get the same on the other side of the cyl so you double the amount and get 0.30. Maybe I didn't understand him. Let me know if one of you can figure what he was trying to say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is all new to me about how to figure how much to bore a cylinder.

 

The machinist said you first figure how much out of round the cylinder is, in my case the worst  one was #1 it was 0.15 out, he said then you have to get the same on the other side of the cyl so you double the amount and get 0.30. Maybe I didn't understand him. Let me know if one of you can figure what he was trying to say.

 

 

ok, they try to bore using the center of the cylinder . if it is worn .015" on one side only and not worn on the other which is unlikely, they would have to take .020" off that side plus .020" off the other side unless they offset bore it.

 

if your cylinder is .015" too large, you need to go at least .030" unless they offset bore it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good reason to me..

 

I believed most shops went .030 because there was little chance of it not cleaning at that amount.. 

Know one wants to return pistons and then re-bore the motor because cil.NO.8 did not make it..

 

I remember somervell rebuilt ford flat heads with .030-.040-.060 pistons all in the same motor

and the crank journals being different under sizes..

Talk about hack and whack.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P1 I am not shore what your looking at for kits at this time but Tmyer is offering a center pin setup that can be had from std to .060

for 2200.00...the way i see it you will be more like 2800.00 after ad ons..

I dont know that offset pins are or have ever been a real problem on the street but centering the rod on piston pins sound like a very good idea in the long run..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray,

It will be a little while. I need to drop the block off to get prepped, order parts then rebuild.  In between that time, I need to up grade to power steering and brakes.

I will let you know asap what I'm doing engine wise. For now were stroking the 351C!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 408 Cleveland fits fine in my 69 convertible, with a C6.  I installed Borgeson power steering and also a power brake booster and have lots of header room.  Plenty of room to change plugs.  At first glance people confuse it with a Big Block because it has tall valve covers to fit the full roller rockers, etc.  Much better engine than the Windsor, although it is a CJ 4 bolt main block, with cast closed heads.  It does have the Windsor rotating assembly to get the bigger rod journals, but it is all Cleveland power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...