1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 I am going to be replacing the battery apron and want to know what if any thing I need to do to make sure nothing moves out of place. Do I need to brace the shock tower to ensure it doesn't move and so on. Or if anyone has words of wisdom on making the job easier? thanks 1 ultdocs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 No bracing is needed as long as you get measurements first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 Good deal. thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 Yep ,get measurements first and it will fit right in place .Drill the spot welds through the battery apron but not through the frame rail or the shock tower .You can drill through the radiator support because the apron will be the backing for welding Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 +1 to what the guys said above. I replaced all 4 of my aprons and it all went back together as it should Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 Oh when you replace the apron move the battery to the trunk and get one with no acid LOL that way you don't gotta do this again 1 ultdocs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 I am going to say against drilling. When drilling you often hit into the base metal of the piece behind it. After doing many inner aprons over the years, I cut the apron out just inside of where it lap joins the other piece. Then I use a grinder on the spot weld to thin the material to the point that the remaining strip of the apron peels off with little effort. As you are grinding you know you are getting close as a blue circle will apprear around the spot weld as the metal gets thin and cannot move away the heat. Once there the metal will tear off leaving a small nub where the spot weld was. A grimder will knock that down flat. One of the reasons I do this is that I use a spot welder to install the replacement piece so I want full thickness of the material I am welding to Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 Ranster is Right as well... Depends on what method ya wanna use really. Drilling IMHO is a little faster but eats a bit more metal up... Grinding is a little slower and makes a lot of sparky mess but is cheaper than drilling....Those bits aint cheap and 1-2 good grinding discs will tear a whole car apart LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted January 12, 2016 ...and if you decide to keep the battery tray up front, I suggest you, do a test fit. Don't forget the group 24 and 27 trays are different. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 By drilling i should have said spot weld cutter ,most paint supply shops will have them .You usually cut until you see a slight rusty look , you have gone through the top panel /battery apron .a light grind on the spots and you are good to go . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 I replaced the floors, qtrs, tail lights section, fillers, and qtr drop off already. Unfortunately I am all to familiar with the devil spot welds. I have spot weld cutters and have used the grinder method or edge of cut off wheel. More worried about when I breat the apron loose from the radiator support that nothing springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 It shouldn't go anywhere... But when you cut it loose the core support will move a bit on that side possibly depending on what kinda loads you have on the car and what locations those loads are, But the core support is thin and easily moved into place lol.... Heck if your really worried about it take a small piece of metal dowel rod and tack it to the top of the core support and top of shock tower and that will keep it located in place for sure... But I wouldn't be worried about it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
