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Vicfreg

1970 Convertible Restoration

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Vic, Did you ever find a solution to lowing your shaker? 

Iam having the same issue and would like my scoop lower.  My engine is a 351C, with RPM performer and Holley sniper.
I read that the base for the 429 cobra is 1/2 shorter, I have one inbound. 

-Mark

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Hey Mark. Happy new year!

My shaker scoop was high, I thought. But I’m still able to move it around, so it’s not binding on the hood.

Rich Ackermann sent me some pictures of a concourse Mustang he had with a shaker, and then a few other pictures, that showed there’s a pretty wide variation on how high they sit.

I’ll see if I can find them and post them here.

In the end, I decided to leave it like it is.

I think the only 429s that had a shaker as far as I know, were the Torino’s. They have a different shape, shaker hood, it’s pointed.

The Boss 429 had a really large hood scoop. I’m not sure if they had Ray under that or not.

Let me see if I can find those pictures and I’ll post them for you. Let me know what you decide to do, I’m interested in seeing how it works out.

vic

 

 

 

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Well, I found them. These are the photos that Rich Ackermann sent me. The black horse is a concourse winning cover jet. The red car is the one that he has posted on the forum for the past few years

Mind, much more like the red Mustang, than the black one, being much higher.

But like I said, it does not bind on the hood I can still move it with with my hand


 

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Hi Vic, Happy new year back at ya! It does seem like the height of these shakers are all over the place.  Mine sits about like yours. 

The SpeedMaster Cobra Jet Shaker arrived. Speedmaster79.com Part number PCE106.1007 
Summit carries it, as well as a few others. All metal, and great quality.  It is shorter, 1/2 shorter? Maybe?? 

From the pictures you posted, maybe I have a 351C shaker?  The also PO hacked it up to make the Dizzy fit. I did not want to hack up this new base until I replace that dizzy, so I drilled holes in the old base that matched the new top.

 

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Hi Ersin.  This one is a reproduction.   I did not use the metal backing strip, as it had a slightly different geometry than the molding, and prevented me from aligning it correctly  So, I installed it directly to the hood, and it fit much better.  It actually worked out ok.  I have a new 1969 molding piece from NPD that obviously did not fit.  But, I am happy with the way the '70 reproduction fit in the end. 

Vic

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Honestly, lot's of patience required to get the hood molding, headlight trim, stone shield and lower molding all lined up.  Also lot's of painters tape required to protect the paint.! 

I have no idea how they possibly did this at the factory, you need 3 hands to do it .....

 

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On 1/7/2024 at 3:18 PM, AusTex70 said:

1503544802_IMG_16252.thumb.jpg.c56e49b0166ce0757344ab4b70e1474c.jpg.3e8c65688097e6157b4fd993259bf71b.jpg

Is the air filter gonna fit with your clearance mod? The air filter sits where the X is marked. At least on mine it does. 

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Rich Ackermann had a good suggestion, I also use one of these air filters, which works well with the shaker airflow coming from the top

My base was a pretty tight fit for air filters. I tried several air filters and this one works.

 

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11 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Hi Ersin.  This one is a reproduction.   I did not use the metal backing strip, as it had a slightly different geometry than the molding, and prevented me from aligning it correctly  So, I installed it directly to the hood, and it fit much better.  It actually worked out ok.  I have a new 1969 molding piece from NPD that obviously did not fit.  But, I am happy with the way the '70 reproduction fit in the end. 

Vic

Vic, is your hood an original or a repro?

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On 1/10/2024 at 7:36 PM, RPM said:

Is the air filter gonna fit with your clearance mod? The air filter sits where the X is marked. At least on mine it does. 

I had to use a 13 inch filter. The normal 14 inch won't work. 

 

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I finally finished installing the dash pad.  A chore for me.  I would rather take my engine out....

But, think it looks good, especially with the color matched dash panels.

I also finished my console top plate.  I put black Di-Noc on it, and it came out pretty well.

Next mini-project is to install the rear quarter window power window actuators. That requires a little cutting. Thanks to the Forum members for helping with hints on that.

 

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Hey Mike.  I think I did, it's been a while since I got it.  It is a Ford tooling piece.

I have a lot of lessons learned from this adventure.  Let me know when you are going to do it and we can talk on the phone.

Vic

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My console is finally done and ready to install.  Took several iterations, but I think it came out good.

Modifications:

 - Turned my rear ashtray into a courtesy light.  Modified the stock ash tray housing to install a LED, then sources some clear reverse light plastic material and shaped it to match the ash tray opening.  Shot it with some VHT Tint spray to blend in with the black. 

 - Installed my New Relics power window switch in the front of the console box where the cigarette lighter used to be. Sourced some pebble grain ABS plastic, and cut it to match the outline of the console box front where the lighter was. Then cut the hole to mount the power window switches.  This took a lot of Dremel grind/cut/file do over...  Then glued the new front panel onto the console box.  Was a tight fit in the back where the power window switch wiring harness goes, but snuck it in there.

 - Added the Shelby Gauge Pod where the front ashtray goes . Installed some Autometer ghost silver face gauges with blue LEDs. They measure my oil cooler discharge temperature and my transmission pan temperature.  

 - Sourced some 19mm billet push button switches from an Australian supplier, and they laser engrave the switches.  They have blue led Halo lights around the switches.  I have 2 for my Dakota/VHX dash, one for my LED headlight halo, one for my engine fan override, one for my trans cooler fan override, and one for my interior lights.  I also have a rocker switch for my power door locks.  

- Added a stainless steel cupholder

- Finished the console box interior with subwoofer exterior fabric.

- Wiring underneath used the AAW GM style ribbon connectors, and a industrial DIN rail terminal block for the wiring interfaces.

 

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Console installed temporarily so I can use the power windows.   Taking the car to get the top put on in about a week. 

Installed my steering wheel.

And, put almost all my tools away, so the end is near.

 

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Worked on my door panels today, as you probably can see, I didn’t use the woodgrain inserts, I bought the composite inserts from MTF, painted them body color. I think they came out pretty cool.
 

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