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AUTO TO T5 conversion

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Not a hard swap.

I have done several,of them and there are a couple ways to do that swap.

One is to use the early bell housing and an adapter between the bell and trans.

The other way is to use the late bell housing and then you have the option of conversion to a cable linkage, conversion of the bell housing to use original type of linkage. Or you can convert to a hydrolic clutch.

 

It's a good swap and not that hard to do.

If you want to talk about doing the conversion you can always call me

 

Bob

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I did it, and it was real easy.  Just be aware that you may need a new starter, depending on the flywheel you get.  I got a Ford Racing flywheel, and it takes an automatic starter.  The difference, is the starter offset. I also got my T5 from http://www.ebay.com/sch/mpsautosalvage/m.html

I have hammered it with my twin turbo 427, and it still works great!

 

Good luck.

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I used Modern Driveline for my 5 speed swap as well.  They were very knowledgeable and had everything I needed.  I would recommend not only looking and your current motor but any future motor plans and buy the proper transmission to be ready for any upgrades.  Save you some time and money later on.

 

I am glad I made the switch as the car has been a blast to drive (when its not been in the shop for other issues).

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Ok so I have looked at the kits. My motor was calculated to make 400/400, or so the builder told me. A T5 is limited to 360ft# and warranty at 330. A TKO is 600 ft# but a grand more. I am not planning to do anything else to the motor, but would rather have more beef than not enough. Any comments?

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 My motor,393 stroker, comp cams retro roller 35-425-8 .513(282).526(289). victor jr heads 70 cc using NGK 7373 v power plugs and msd mechanical distributor (factory installed spring set up) 10:1 compression. Holley 750 DP (set up from the factory)

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ur setup is almost the same as mine, but having that said, having a stroker motor behind any t5, including a t5z is a sensitive topic, some say they will break, some say no and others say upgrade to a TKO. 

 

I was going to go with a t5z at one point, from what re-searched (okay, i googled it) if ur on streets tires and not power shifting and you have a good clutch i think it will hold up fine, but since its a stroker, I rather put something behind it where I know I don't have to worry about it when I'm Shifting like Dominic torreto on the streets lol. 

 

I suggest going with a TKO600. Yes, it cost's more but I never herd of anyone breaking their TKO's on this forum.

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X3 for the TKO600.  I would bet you could probably get the T5 to last for some time, but the one time it doesn't hold up, your out to replace or upgrade then.  Make sure to get a good shifter too.  IMO, those make a world of difference for the longevity of a transmission. 

 

On the 6 speed upgrade.  Those are very big transmissions.  I think more times then not modification is needed to the tunnel for it to fit.  I think I remember someone on here doing a swap and not having to do major tunnel work, but that may just have to do with the car and factory tolerances. 

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ur setup is almost the same as mine, but having that said, having a stroker motor behind any t5, including a t5z is a sensitive topic, some say they will break, some say no and others say upgrade to a TKO. 

 

I was going to go with a t5z at one point, from what re-searched (okay, i googled it) if ur on streets tires and not power shifting and you have a good clutch i think it will hold up fine, but since its a stroker, I rather put something behind it where I know I don't have to worry about it when I'm Shifting like Dominic torreto on the streets lol. 

 

I suggest going with a TKO600. Yes, it cost's more but I never herd of anyone breaking their TKO's on this forum.

Exactly right on the T5.  I have an upgraded T5, and I don't power shift, or dump the clutch.  It is holding up nicely. 9" tires in the rear help as the fuse, as they break loose if too much torque is applied.  With that said, my long term goals include a TKO600, and 12" tires.

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You and I are in the same boat, Im almost putting out the same specs as you, I have a 392, built c4 with a stock 8 and it handles just fine, the tires break loose before they can hook. I read that 8's can take the punishment just as long as your not putting out more than 500hp and not on slicks or sticky street tires. for me, I will most likely go with a 8" builder from Ebay that builds the 8 that can handle major hp/tq, I believe some users on here have bought from him, so maybe they can chime in, i just need to look into what axels i need I am debating between strange and currie at the moment.

 

if you have a t5, you have the option of going with astro or gforce internals, but it'll cost you though, but with that amount of money your going to put in if you go with building a t5, ur better off just purchasing a TKO. 

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rwcstang,

 

tj1141 is is handle on eBay, i think. He built my 8" and it's been solid for a few years now...great guy to work with too. i figured I will drive everything until it breaks and then replace it. That was several years ago...

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You and I are in the same boat, Im almost putting out the same specs as you, I have a 392, built c4 with a stock 8 and it handles just fine, the tires break loose before they can hook. I read that 8's can take the punishment just as long as your not putting out more than 500hp and not on slicks or sticky street tires. for me, I will most likely go with a 8" builder from Ebay that builds the 8 that can handle major hp/tq, I believe some users on here have bought from him, so maybe they can chime in, i just need to look into what axels i need I am debating between strange and currie at the moment.

 

if you have a t5, you have the option of going with astro or gforce internals, but it'll cost you though, but with that amount of money your going to put in if you go with building a t5, ur better off just purchasing a TKO. 

That's interesting advice. You provide in detail why spending a bunch of money on a lesser 8" diff works for you, then tell the OP to go for the higher rated TKO. Kind of conflicting logic, no?

 

I would tell the OP to get the TKO, but I would also suggest to you to get a 9" and spend the money on that. If you get a 31 spline unit, you won't even have to spend any money on new axles. While your 8" may hold up, especially when tires are your fusible link, if you are on the front end of spending money, I would easily go 9" over 8" any day. 8" diffs are stop gap for your horsepower specs, and suitable depending on tires and goals, and savings, of course. But if you are planning on spending real money, start with the best platform you can. Just one guy's opinion, of course....

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That's interesting advice. You provide in detail why spending a bunch of money on a lesser 8" diff works for you, then tell the OP to go for the higher rated TKO. Kind of conflicting logic, no?

 

I would tell the OP to get the TKO, but I would also suggest to you to get a 9" and spend the money on that. If you get a 31 spline unit, you won't even have to spend any money on new axles. While your 8" may hold up, especially when tires are your fusible link, if you are on the front end of spending money, I would easily go 9" over 8" any day. 8" diffs are stop gap for your horsepower specs, and suitable depending on tires and goals, and savings, of course. But if you are planning on spending real money, start with the best platform you can. Just one guy's opinion, of course....

True, but not many ppl can afford to buy/build a 9" and a TKO at the same time, like myself. So if he has a budget in mind then stick with what you got until it breaks or until you save up for the upgrade.

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True, but not many ppl can afford to buy/build a 9" and a TKO at the same time, like myself. So if he has a budget in mind then stick with what you got until it breaks or until you save up for the upgrade.

Well, that's an assumption, but not unfair. If you are getting by on an 8", just continue getting by until you can afford the 9" and the TKO is paid off.

 

Point being, it doesn't make much sense throwing money at an 8" when you could be throwing it at a 9", regardless of timing or budget.

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