Another Pink Resistor Wire Question

[albarnett_99 13]

Hi guys,

 

I have been reading all the posts regarding trying to bypass the pink resistance wire in a '69 (non-tach) ignition to get a full 12v to the coil and electronic ignition system.  I have a couple of questions about how to proceed and would like your feedback.  So far I have gathered that the 2 most common options are:

 

1. Remove the pink wire from the ignition switch pigtail and engine gauge harness (engine bay) so that the original engine gauge harness can be used

2. Either remove/splice into the pink wire at the ignition switch pigtail, run a new wire directly to the + side of coil

 

At present I have mechanical gauges for oil pressure and water temperature.  I am using the lead from the engine gauge harness for the + coil terminal. I am thinking about going with option #2 above so that I can avoid all the work of trying to replace a wire in the engine gauge harness.

 

My questions:

 

1.  How do I get the pink resistance wire out of the the plastic end of the ignition switch pigtail?  (I would prefer to not splice)

2.  If I decide to leave the pink resistance wire after disconnecting from the harness, can I simply wrap electrical tape to the end?

 

Appreciate your help and advice.  

[69RavenConv 286]

1.  How do I get the pink resistance wire out of the the plastic end of the ignition switch pigtail?  (I would prefer to not splice)

 

Most electrical pins have a locking tab on the side that prevents the pin from backing out once it's inserted into the connector. They make extraction tools that slide over the pin and squeeze the tab inward so the pin can be removed. You can try doing the same using a small pick or jeweler's screwdriver to depress the tab. It's often tedious and aggravating but can work. FYI, I spliced mine.

 

2.  If I decide to leave the pink resistance wire after disconnecting from the harness, can I simply wrap electrical tape to the end?

 

Yes, taping it should be fine. If you disconnect it from the switch like you say in step #1, it won't have any juice on it anyway but taping is always a good policy.

[barnett468 418]

.

just grab both ends of the pig tail/bullet connector with pliers and twist as you try to pull them apart . . they can be quite stubborn.

 

the pink wire will no longer have power so there is no need to tape it up but you need to remove it from the coil then run a wire from the bullet connector to the coil.

[69 red fastback 20]

I did like 69RavenConv suggested, I used a jewelers screwdriver to realease the locking tab and it came right out. I was able to find a new bullet connecter at my local carquest store, I then took a 12 gauge wire and the green with the red strpe and attached them together and put them in the new bullet connecter and then soldered them, pushed the pin back in the pig tail plug. I also ran my new wire through the firewall where I ran my tach wire and put it in a plastic loom and I think it turned out nice looking

[Midlife 814]

This is what I do for customers who want this modification:

I first cut the pink resistor wire right at the back side of the ignition switch, fold it over on itself and slip a piece of heatshrink on it.

I then cut the pink resistor wire before the firewall grommet (inside of the passenger compartment), fold it over, and heatshrink it.  There are now two folded over pink resistor wire segments before the grommet.

 

I then splice into the green/red wire coming from the ignition switch (same pin as the cut pink wire) and tie it into the brown wire that goes through the firewall grommet.  That brown wire shares the pink resistor wire at the engine gauge feed plug past the grommet that lies in the engine compartment.  Everything will look stock where people can see things.  Take the wire that normally goes to the + side of the coil and use that for either the coil or electronic ignition that requires +12V in the RUN key position.

 

I've also spliced in male/female bullet plugs behind the ignition switch and before the firewall grommet so that one can use either the pink resistor wire or the bypass wire.

 

Don't bother trying to completely remove the pink resistor wire, as it is embedded deeply into the underdash harness, requiring removal of a lot of tape and then taping things back up. 

Hope this helps.

[Ron m 0]

What about the brown wire on the solenoid? Do you leave it hooked up or disconnect it

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, Ron m said:

What about the brown wire on the solenoid? Do you leave it hooked up or disconnect it

Ron, out of curiosity, why are you bypassing the pink resistor wire- because you are adding Pertronix or something else?