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bryonbush

engine lift plate Q

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got everything ready to pull the motor and trans tomorrow. problem is, when going to mount the plate to the intake manifold, the screws only go in a few turns and that's it. the threads on the screws and intake aren't messed up. anyone else have this problem?

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You NEED full thread engagement. A few threads won't cut it. You may need longer fasteners. I know you said the threads are good, but have you tried running a tap into the intake manifold bosses to make sure they are clean? Or blown compressed air into the bosses? Good luck. Bruce

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I guess you might say old school method, but an alternative approach is to connect a chain diagonally over the top of the motor. Attach one end to the front of one cylinder head and the other end to the back of the opposite cylinder head. Select the most suitable cylinder head bolt holes that are typically for the P/S pump or alternator. You may have to adjust the lift point on the chain a time or two to get the balance you want. This was a common method before lift plates were around.

 

This is how I've always lifted motor without factory installed lift plates. I've never used a lift plate attached to the intake manifold.

Edited by 1969_Mach1

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I guess you might say old school method, but an alternative approach is to connect a chain diagonally over the top of the motor. Attach one end to the front of one cylinder head and the other end to the back of the opposite cylinder head. Select the most suitable cylinder head bolt holes that are typically for the P/S pump or alternator. You may have to adjust the lift point on the chain a time or two to get the balance you want. This was a common method before lift plates were around.

 

This is how I've always lifted motor without factory installed lift plates. I've never used a lift plate attached to the intake manifold.

 

X2, that is how I always lift a motor, & IMHO the best way for me.

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got everything ready to pull the motor and trans tomorrow. problem is, when going to mount the plate to the intake manifold, the screws only go in a few turns and that's it. the threads on the screws and intake aren't messed up. anyone else have this problem?

 

Just a thought.....................If you are using studs that mounted the carb to the intake, make sure you don't have them inverted. The threads going in to the intake are course threads (5/16-18) while the opposite end of the stud are fine thread (5/16-24).

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X3. I have always used a chain from corner to corner as well. I don't trust those lift plates, especially if you have an aluminum intake. I know, I know, I have seen the tests and know how much it took to break parts. It's just a mental thing with me. I would rather be safe than sorry. B.

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went out and cleaned the threads and were all good now. now off to HD to get some better bolts. thanks guys. I actually saw the chain method and liked that idea but dont have a strong enough chain. it kinda seems like four bolts on the intake would be stronger than 2. but im not choosy

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The plate typically works. I've never heard of it failing. With the chain method you are using either a 3/8 or 7/16 diameter bolt depending on what hole you select. Plus the load applied to bolts with the chain method is predominately shear. With the lift plate on the intake manifold, the bolts are in pure tension. And, if you are using a grade 5 or stronger bolt, the weak link is going to be the threads in the intake manifold. They work, I personally don't trust them.

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went out and cleaned the threads and were all good now. now off to HD to get some better bolts. thanks guys. I actually saw the chain method and liked that idea but dont have a strong enough chain. it kinda seems like four bolts on the intake would be stronger than 2. but im not choosy

 

what do you mean 2 bolts in the intake, you must use 4 bolts if you use the carb position lift bracket, however, if your intake is a chinese one i would bot use that method.

 

the bolts in the end of the head suggestion is far more secure than the intake plate.

 

also the grade 5 bolts from most hardware stores are chinese and are not grade 5 i guarantee it, so there us no way in heck i would use those on my newly rebuilt engine.

.

Edited by barnett468

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barnett468,

 

He might have been comparing using a chain attached diagonally to the cylinder heads with two bolts vs. four bolts when using the carb position lift bracket.

 

hi;

 

yes, thanks and thats what i was guessing/hoping but just wanted to clarify for him to be safe.

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I have used both ways ,and both work fine .Never heard of an intake failing But like said use grade 8 bolts. I bought one of the screw type weight shifting motor pullers from Harbor freight ,it attaches to the front of the head on one side and the back of the opposite head. It is great for tilting the motor when replacing or pulling .And they don't cost much.

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