mustang monthly side window gluing article

[alex 18]

Does anyone have a link to the Mustang Monthly article on gluing the side windows? I have searched but not found the article. Guess I should have bookmarked the article when I found it a few months ago.

[TheRktmn 15]

Not the magazine article asked for, but a couple of How-tos from the Cougar world that may prove helpful:

 

 

http://www.cougarclub.org/pdf/1969-cougar-door-window-glass-repair.pdf

[mustangstofear 608]

The problem with using the 2 part Epoxy, is that it's to rigid. That was the same problem with the old style mixing cups. Urethane works much better.

[69RavenConv 286]

The problem with using the 2 part Epoxy, is that it's to rigid. That was the same problem with the old style mixing cups. Urethane works much better.

 

+1. Epoxy is brittle and prone to fracture when stressed. That article was written in 1997, I'd go with a modern urethane.

[alex 18]

Should the brackets, when glued, follow/extend the curve of the window or should the brackets break away from the curve and extend straight down? Obviously, I am gluing the brackets with the window out of the car.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I would think the brackets should follow the glass contour, not sure though. Hopefully somebody else will know. I watched the video from West Coast Classic Cougar and on my car all the original glue had to removed from the channels. What I did to center the glass in the channels was insert two 1-inch wide thin pieces of rubber in each channel in a U-shape so that the glass would be centered and snug in the channel. The remainder of the regluing was the same. My channels follow the glass contours.

[alex 18]

I followed the same video however, I could not determine if the window was placed inside down (brackets would not follow the contour of the glass) or outside down (brackets would follow the contour of the glass).

Edited December 26, 2014 by alex

[mustangstofear 608]

You can also put the channel in a vise and squeeze it a little tighter, there by eliminating the spacers on the sides.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I wouldn't squeeze the channel. Sometimes if there is any metal to glass contact the tempered glass will shatter with the slightest jolt, tap, bump, etc.

[Ridge Runner 1,114]

I had a 69 door glass explode ,not fun .Glass went every where .

I have a door Glass here some where with the channels still in place ,i will see if i can find it for measurements and channel tilt.

[barnett468 418]

the biggest problem is squaring up the glass properly with the window . . if you set the bracket on there it will flop side to side . . the window must be in the center of the bracket and the bracket must have the right tilt on it.

 

i center it by folding over a few 2 1/2" long pieces of paper several times in around a 3/8" width.

 

fold two pieces over the glas so it will be around 1" from the end of the bracket and install the bracket.

 

it should be a very snug fit so the bracket doesn't fit.

 

if its loose, the paper needs to be thicker . . if its too tight just unfold it 2 folds and cut them off and try it again.

 

i glue them with 3m 50/50 adhesive.

.

[Ridge Runner 1,114]

I have a pass.side with the channels still in place .

From the front of the glass to the front of the front channel is 3/4 inch.

From the front of the glass to the rear channel is 26 1/2 inches .

Clamping a straight edge to the rear channel i measured from the top edge of the glass to my straight edge 2 3/4 inch for the rear channel tilt .

Clamping the straight edge on the front channel 8 inches inches from the front of the glass and marked on the glass at 8 inches the distance between the glass and the straight edge is 1 1/8 inch .

This window fit very well in my 69 ,it doesn't look like it has ever been apart .

[1969_Mach1 333]

I had a 69 door glass explode ,not fun .Glass went every where .

I have a door Glass here some where with the channels still in place ,i will see if i can find it for measurements and channel tilt.

 

I've had two door windows explode over the years. One in a 1972 Challenger I had. I was making adjustments, got it working and sealing great, shut the door with the window down and it shattered. The other on a new car when I was a GM tech. The body shop replaced a door and couldn't adjust the glass after they reinstalled it. The glass shattered when I shut the door because the body shop didn't install one insulator where the glass attached to the regulator. My point, it doesn't take much with tempered glass, and you definitely don't want any metal to glass contact.

 

This is partly why I mentioned in an earlier post that I inserted two pieces of thin rubber U-shaped pieces in each channel then pressed the glass in. These rubber strips centered the glass in the channel and prevented any metal to glass contact. The glue still bonded the glass to the tracks.

Edited December 27, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[Ridge Runner 1,114]

I had a 66 fast back rear glass i had just set on a rag standing on its edge .My mom walked by and wanted to move it just a little so she could get something behind it.I told her to be very careful they break very easily ,and i barley said it and it disappeared in her hands like a magic trick into tiny little ice cubes .It didn't cut her but i thought she was going to cry .I told her not to worry about it and i had another one ,but that one was Oh so nice ,now she laughs about it .

[mustangstofear 608]

I wouldn't squeeze the channel. Sometimes if there is any metal to glass contact the tempered glass will shatter with the slightest jolt, tap, bump, etc.

 

Not true at all. It would require chipping the edge to cause it to break. Besides, it's going to have urethane all the way around the glass.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Not true at all. It would require chipping the edge to cause it to break. Besides, it's going to have urethane all the way around the glass.

 

 

That is typically true, the edges are the most sensitive. But both door glasses that shattered on me did not have a chipped edge or any impact to an edge. Maybe not as easy, but tempered glass will shatter without being hit on an edge.

[mustangstofear 608]

Any tempered glass can break due to extreme hot or cold, it disturbs the molecules. Take a car that's been sitting out in the hot sun and hit it with cold water and see what happens.

[1969_Mach1 333]

That is true. But, at least in my two cases, thermal shock was not a factor. I don't understand tempered glass at a molecular level. In a Materials Science graduate course I had tempered glass was explained as having a surface hardening treatment. The end result is the glass has residual compressive stresses on the surface. I can be wrong, but I understood it to be these residual compressive stresses that cause it to shatter into small chunks like an explosion.

Edited December 28, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[mustangstofear 608]

Well, since being in the glass business for the last 43 years, I've seen just about every type of glass breakage this is. I would probably disclaim the the compression stress since I've seen tempered glass blow out and hit the pavement at 60 mph and never break. When I tighten up the channel I'm not trying to make it touch the glass, I'm just leaving a smaller gap for the urethane to fill. This also keeps the glass in better alignment.

[rangerdoc 22]

FWIW, this is a link to a thread where I tried to talk someone through the process after doing my windows. I've have no problems.

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/626914-1970-glue-glass-inside-shell-out.html

[1969_Mach1 333]

That's fine mustangtofear. I'm still embracing my theory.

[Lil John SVT 27]

I'm trying to understand something. Both the door windows need to be reglued. I removed all the old hard epoxy out the window brackets. I have some rubber tape that I put on both ends to avoid glass to metal contact. But when I slide the brackets on the glass, they flop side to side. There's no way to tighten the gap. So do I put glue the the brackets and set the glass in inside the door and roll the window up? I know with the bracket not in the right place it'll affect the roll up/down function.

[rangerdoc 22]

Read my link. You have to put in some rubber or something on both sides of the window to center it.

[69RavenConv 286]

Here's what worked for me...

[Lil John SVT 27]

I have some thick rubber tape from work. I put some in the channels. Fits very tight and no movement at all. So that's fixed. Now I have another question.

 

After I install the urethane in the channel and make sure the glass is seated all the way down, do I let it sit and dry or hurry and put it in the door and roll the window up? The reason I'm asking is because when I try to roll the window up with just the window sitting in the channel the channels twist all up. One side always goes up first. I know with the guides that go on the bars on the inside the door won't fit with them bolted to the channels. The urethane will be here tomorrow and I was hoping to do the windows this weekend.