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juit

holley runing rich all the time

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Wont disapear, it will stay on the last one in 5th gear, in city wil dance from green to orange

 

The guy just sent me the new can because it was out of stock so ill have it by thursday

 

 

Yes i floor it, works great

 

I was told that the avenger will feal a lil stronger and responsive

 

What would be my max degrees With the vac?

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ok

 

i don't understand your afr

 

it should go a bit rich when you floor it but i don't know what it is doing.

 

it should not peg the meter when you floor it.

 

if it shows slightly lean at cruise node this is ok because there is less load on the engine then, however, if you out a 1 step richer main jets in it, it should be perfect at cruise . . if it stumbles.hesitates when you floor it, the bigger jets are too big and should be removed.

.

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rich when flooring or acelerating

 

ok but does the meter go to max or does it just lite up a few red bars?

 

 

 

cruising is moving

 

sorry i have no idea what this means

 

 

 

cruise on heavy gears is lean

 

does this mean cruising on the highway in ANY gear at a low rpm like 2000 or less?

 

 

 

no stumbles

 

thats good, it might go slightly faster when you floor it if you out a lighter spring in your carburetor secondaries.

.

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Full rich acelerating

 

Driving in the city leds are on green orange and red, before it always was on green

 

Driving at 1500 rpm 5th geat at 65 mph the led is lean but it wont dissapear in the gauge

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After all this, I don't think it was ever mentioned what type of Holley was on there before, since this new carb has made such a difference?

 

this is the same carb he has had on there all along.

 

all the power increases came from timing alone.

 

i had him lower the float level, set the idle screws and install 1 size bigger jet because once he increased his advance/timing, i told him it would be leaner which was also indicated in his afr meter.

 

his timing is basically done now and so is his carb unless he wants to try 1 size bigger main jet.

.

Edited by barnett468

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Wow! I am having a hard time following and understanding this thread! One post says a new carb is ordered and later the car runs so much different. But I haven't read or missed what carb is currently on there. The posts always state 4160 vac sec, 450, 600, 650, 750, 780.....?

 

Good Luck!

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4160 holley classic 600 cfm, i have an avenger 570 that need to clean up, knn filter, 1/2 in spacer, aluminum rad & electric fan, thats going to be installed, i dont think im gonna upgrade anything more on the engine for a while

Edited by juit

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Wow! I am having a hard time following and understanding this thread! One post says a new carb is ordered and later the car runs so much different. But I haven't read or missed what carb is currently on there. The posts always state 4160 vac sec, 450, 600, 650, 750, 780.....?

 

Good Luck!

lol, i can't even follow it anymore . . i think it is a basic non adjustable float, straight leg booster 600 cfm non 3310 type, non avenger type, holley, and his friend gave him the other which i think is a 570 holley street avenger that he has not installed yet.

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Installed the:

new 1 port vac can

holley avenger

cotton performance filter

 

the AFM is in yellow "Ideal" at idle

 

should I plug the vac can in the vaccum port?

how much advance?

 

the dreaded new carb, i knew it, lol. ok if it runs like c___p don't forget what i told you.

 

yellow is too LEAN for a carburetor car at idle.

 

turn both fuel mix screws equally until highest rpm is achieved then turn them out 1/8 turn more.

 

set your idle speed to 2000 rpm and check timing.

 

connect the can to ported vac on the passenger side of the float bowl metering block and check timing.

 

you want it to add 6 - 8 degrees.

 

if it adds more than stick an allen screw in the port in the can and turn it counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns then try it again.

 

counter clockwise reduces timing.

 

leave it connected to the caeb when done.

 

after you are done, reset your idle timing because it will be off slightly.

 

rev it to 2000 rpm again and make sure it adds 6 - 8 degrees.

.

Edited by barnett468

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the dreaded new carb, i knew it, lol. ok if it runs like c___p don't forget what i told you.

 

yellow is too LEAN for a carburetor car at idle.

 

turn both fuel mix screws equally until highest rpm is achieved then turn them out 1/8 turn more.

 

set your idle speed to 2000 rpm and check timing.

 

connect the can to ported vac on the passenger side of the float bowl metering block and check timing.

 

you want it to add 6 - 8 degrees.

 

if it adds more than stick an allen screw in the port in the can and turn it counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns then try it again.

 

counter clockwise reduces timing.

 

leave it connected to the caeb when done.

 

after you are done, reset your idle timing because it will be off slightly.

 

rev it to 2000 rpm again and make sure it adds 6 - 8 degrees.

.

 

 

 

hahahah Ill will

 

its yellow towards rich

 

Ive set the idle with vac gauge

 

Ill do the timing stuff and report back

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had some hessitations at cruising speed when I stomp the pedal at 40 miles

cruising at 65 the

jets are 54 tomorrow Ill try the 64 and see the cruising at the AFR

 

Im runing 12 initial timing

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had some hessitations at cruising speed when I stomp the pedal at 40 miles

cruising at 65 the

jets are 54 tomorrow Ill try the 64 and see the cruising at the AFR

 

Im runing 12 initial timing

 

lol, it should not even run with 54 jets

 

what was in your last carb?

 

what color was your afr when you floored it, huh, huh, come on tell me?

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Im doing this it makes sense

 

Published on Sep 28, 2012

everyone has always complained about these being highly untuneable. i have had two and agree but have located the problem. this is an explanation of what i show in vid please read!!!!!

 

There are 3 problems on the Street Avengers that cause the stumbles and hesitations:

1. Lean Jetting. The S/A carbs are jetted very lean on the primary side, and extremely lean on the secondary side. Bump primary jetting up about 3 jet sizes and then make the secondary jets 8 sizes larger than the resulting primaries. To save a few bucks on jets, take the jets out of the secondary side and install them in the primary, and then just buy a pair of jets for the secondary side. This gets the carb jetted about right and will do wonders for throttle response and power.

2. Accel pump lever not touching pump cam. I see this constantly on the S/A carbs, and it's really lousy assembly work at the factory: The accel pump lever that connects between the pump cam and the accel pump arm does not ride on the pump cam at idle. The lever is riding on top of the throttle shaft spring and is not touching the pump cam. Only after you rotate the throttle a bit (with no accel pump action) will the pump cam touch the lever and produce a pump shot. To fix this, remove the lever and bend the lever a little more right where you see the "kick-up" bend in the lever where it's supposed to ride on the cam. By giving the lever more of a bend, the lever will not hit the shaft spring and will ride on the pump cam right where it should. This will produce an instant pump shot off idle, and will solve most of the hesitation/stumble issues associated with these carbs. Keep in mind that you will need to re-adjust the accel pump lash adjustment after you bend the arm.

3. Inadequate secondary idle speed setting. On most S/A carbs, the secondary throttle (idle speed) is fully closed. This causes the primary idle speed setting to get cranked up too far in order to achieve a reasonable idle speed, thus exposing too much of the primary transition slot. This, in turn, will cause an off-idle stumble due to lack of transition fuel enrichment as the throttle is opened. The primary and secondary throttles should be open the same amounts at idle - they should be balanced and see equal airflow.

Forget about swapping pump cams and accel pump nozzles - that's not the issue, and it won't solve your problems. Fix the pump lever geometry instead...

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ok but it won't run right . . you read too much.

 

if the pump cam has freeplay you can adjust it.

 

what engine did he have?

 

what temperature did it run at?

 

what cam did he have?

 

what was his compression?

 

what was his timing curve?

 

what was his elevation?

 

what was his gear ratio?

.

Edited by barnett468

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