barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 3, 2014 ok great. what does your afr meter do? did you floor it from a stop? the vac cam will improve mileage slightly . . if you are happy the way it is don't tempt fate and just leave it. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 Wont disapear, it will stay on the last one in 5th gear, in city wil dance from green to orange The guy just sent me the new can because it was out of stock so ill have it by thursday Yes i floor it, works great I was told that the avenger will feal a lil stronger and responsive What would be my max degrees With the vac? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 ok i don't understand your afr it should go a bit rich when you floor it but i don't know what it is doing. it should not peg the meter when you floor it. if it shows slightly lean at cruise node this is ok because there is less load on the engine then, however, if you out a 1 step richer main jets in it, it should be perfect at cruise . . if it stumbles.hesitates when you floor it, the bigger jets are too big and should be removed. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 rich when flooring or acelerating cruising is moving cruise on heavy gears is lean no stumbles Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 rich when flooring or acelerating ok but does the meter go to max or does it just lite up a few red bars? cruising is moving sorry i have no idea what this means cruise on heavy gears is lean does this mean cruising on the highway in ANY gear at a low rpm like 2000 or less? no stumbles thats good, it might go slightly faster when you floor it if you out a lighter spring in your carburetor secondaries. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 Full rich acelerating Driving in the city leds are on green orange and red, before it always was on green Driving at 1500 rpm 5th geat at 65 mph the led is lean but it wont dissapear in the gauge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 After all this, I don't think it was ever mentioned what type of Holley was on there before, since this new carb has made such a difference? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 4160 vac sec they geve it with no choke plate, I dont think it had any mods, the avenger is stock but havent got any time to put it and tune it, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 You need to know the LIST number that's usually on the choke horn to know exactly what the old carb was. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) After all this, I don't think it was ever mentioned what type of Holley was on there before, since this new carb has made such a difference? this is the same carb he has had on there all along. all the power increases came from timing alone. i had him lower the float level, set the idle screws and install 1 size bigger jet because once he increased his advance/timing, i told him it would be leaner which was also indicated in his afr meter. his timing is basically done now and so is his carb unless he wants to try 1 size bigger main jet. . Edited November 4, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 Wow! I am having a hard time following and understanding this thread! One post says a new carb is ordered and later the car runs so much different. But I haven't read or missed what carb is currently on there. The posts always state 4160 vac sec, 450, 600, 650, 750, 780.....? Good Luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) 4160 holley classic 600 cfm, i have an avenger 570 that need to clean up, knn filter, 1/2 in spacer, aluminum rad & electric fan, thats going to be installed, i dont think im gonna upgrade anything more on the engine for a while Edited November 4, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 4, 2014 Wow! I am having a hard time following and understanding this thread! One post says a new carb is ordered and later the car runs so much different. But I haven't read or missed what carb is currently on there. The posts always state 4160 vac sec, 450, 600, 650, 750, 780.....? Good Luck! lol, i can't even follow it anymore . . i think it is a basic non adjustable float, straight leg booster 600 cfm non 3310 type, non avenger type, holley, and his friend gave him the other which i think is a 570 holley street avenger that he has not installed yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) Yep ∆∆∆∆ I think ill put important stuff in the first page, w follow ups Edited November 5, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 Yep ∆∆∆∆ I think ill put important stuff in the first page, w follow ups great idea Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 13, 2014 Installed the: new 1 port vac can holley avenger cotton performance filter the AFM is in yellow "Ideal" at idle should I plug the vac can in the vaccum port? how much advance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Installed the: new 1 port vac can holley avenger cotton performance filter the AFM is in yellow "Ideal" at idle should I plug the vac can in the vaccum port? how much advance? the dreaded new carb, i knew it, lol. ok if it runs like c___p don't forget what i told you. yellow is too LEAN for a carburetor car at idle. turn both fuel mix screws equally until highest rpm is achieved then turn them out 1/8 turn more. set your idle speed to 2000 rpm and check timing. connect the can to ported vac on the passenger side of the float bowl metering block and check timing. you want it to add 6 - 8 degrees. if it adds more than stick an allen screw in the port in the can and turn it counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns then try it again. counter clockwise reduces timing. leave it connected to the caeb when done. after you are done, reset your idle timing because it will be off slightly. rev it to 2000 rpm again and make sure it adds 6 - 8 degrees. . Edited November 13, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 13, 2014 the dreaded new carb, i knew it, lol. ok if it runs like c___p don't forget what i told you. yellow is too LEAN for a carburetor car at idle. turn both fuel mix screws equally until highest rpm is achieved then turn them out 1/8 turn more. set your idle speed to 2000 rpm and check timing. connect the can to ported vac on the passenger side of the float bowl metering block and check timing. you want it to add 6 - 8 degrees. if it adds more than stick an allen screw in the port in the can and turn it counter clockwise 3 1/2 turns then try it again. counter clockwise reduces timing. leave it connected to the caeb when done. after you are done, reset your idle timing because it will be off slightly. rev it to 2000 rpm again and make sure it adds 6 - 8 degrees. . hahahah Ill will its yellow towards rich Ive set the idle with vac gauge Ill do the timing stuff and report back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 13, 2014 hahahah Ill will its yellow towards rich Ive set the idle with vac gauge Ill do the timing stuff and report back ok...:flowers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 had some hessitations at cruising speed when I stomp the pedal at 40 miles cruising at 65 the jets are 54 tomorrow Ill try the 64 and see the cruising at the AFR Im runing 12 initial timing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 had some hessitations at cruising speed when I stomp the pedal at 40 milescruising at 65 the jets are 54 tomorrow Ill try the 64 and see the cruising at the AFR Im runing 12 initial timing lol, it should not even run with 54 jets what was in your last carb? what color was your afr when you floored it, huh, huh, come on tell me? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 Red almost disapear :) The smell has gone away 64 jets 4160 54 front 64 back on avenger Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 Red almost disapear :) The smell has gone away 64 jets 4160 54 front 64 back on avenger is red rich or lean. you don't smell gas because with 54 primaries it isn't getting any gas, lol. take the 64's out of your other carb. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 Im doing this it makes sense Published on Sep 28, 2012 everyone has always complained about these being highly untuneable. i have had two and agree but have located the problem. this is an explanation of what i show in vid please read!!!!! There are 3 problems on the Street Avengers that cause the stumbles and hesitations: 1. Lean Jetting. The S/A carbs are jetted very lean on the primary side, and extremely lean on the secondary side. Bump primary jetting up about 3 jet sizes and then make the secondary jets 8 sizes larger than the resulting primaries. To save a few bucks on jets, take the jets out of the secondary side and install them in the primary, and then just buy a pair of jets for the secondary side. This gets the carb jetted about right and will do wonders for throttle response and power. 2. Accel pump lever not touching pump cam. I see this constantly on the S/A carbs, and it's really lousy assembly work at the factory: The accel pump lever that connects between the pump cam and the accel pump arm does not ride on the pump cam at idle. The lever is riding on top of the throttle shaft spring and is not touching the pump cam. Only after you rotate the throttle a bit (with no accel pump action) will the pump cam touch the lever and produce a pump shot. To fix this, remove the lever and bend the lever a little more right where you see the "kick-up" bend in the lever where it's supposed to ride on the cam. By giving the lever more of a bend, the lever will not hit the shaft spring and will ride on the pump cam right where it should. This will produce an instant pump shot off idle, and will solve most of the hesitation/stumble issues associated with these carbs. Keep in mind that you will need to re-adjust the accel pump lash adjustment after you bend the arm. 3. Inadequate secondary idle speed setting. On most S/A carbs, the secondary throttle (idle speed) is fully closed. This causes the primary idle speed setting to get cranked up too far in order to achieve a reasonable idle speed, thus exposing too much of the primary transition slot. This, in turn, will cause an off-idle stumble due to lack of transition fuel enrichment as the throttle is opened. The primary and secondary throttles should be open the same amounts at idle - they should be balanced and see equal airflow. Forget about swapping pump cams and accel pump nozzles - that's not the issue, and it won't solve your problems. Fix the pump lever geometry instead... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted November 15, 2014 (edited) ok but it won't run right . . you read too much. if the pump cam has freeplay you can adjust it. what engine did he have? what temperature did it run at? what cam did he have? what was his compression? what was his timing curve? what was his elevation? what was his gear ratio? . Edited November 15, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites