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rchappelear

TCP rack clearance issues

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I first installed my TCP manual rack into my 69 mustang. followed by my 351w motor with a Canton high capacity oil pan, with tko600 mounted to it.

I purchased the ron morris engine mounts for both stock and the 1/2 drop option.

 

I installed the engine and trany hoping it would fit with the stock height but would not fit, so we swapped to the 1/2 drop and the engine trans comb fit perfectly.

 

I just noticed today that the TCP rack inner right and left boots are being pinched up against the oil pan. I have only about a 1/4" clearance between the rack shaft and the canton oil pan.

 

besides modifying the tunnel so i can use the stock height engine mounts to make clearance, i was wondering if i could possibly take a mallet to the oil pan and add and additional 1/4" or less clearance. (of course i don't want to compromise the through of my crank shaft)

 

what are your thoughts

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I just put some more shims under the rack mounts, and got a longer, grade 8 bolt to mount it.

 

My boots still rub on the pan, but they are not pinched.

 

I would shim the rack before you beat up your pan.

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You could also use the big block mounting brackets for the TCP R&P, it will clear pan easily. But it will change the geometry of your intermediate steering shaft which may cause issues with headers or your Zbar if you have one.

 

You would have to somewhat disassemble the rack to swap out the mounts. Also, I don't think TCP sells them separately.

 

He best option right now is to shim the rack.

 

I was able to shim mine another 3/8" without having to re-do the intermediate shaft.

 

Of course, he could always put a different oil pan on it.

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7900-184 is the part# for the BB brackets, I had to buy them...they're not cheap $229. Also need a .90 inch spacer for the drivers side bracket which is not replaceable, they want $60 for that...made my own. Like I said, your intermediate shaft will lower as the rack lowers so check clearances and shaft length.

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Awesome, thank you for the information. I was not sure if i was going to be able to shim or replace with different brackets. I really didn't want to scrap the oil pan, since its a $300 item.

Never know what you are going to get when you start modifying parts on a 40yr old car.

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called TCP twice on the big block mounts and sounds like it would be a big undertaking to do this. the Tech kept referring to use shims to drop the rack and shims to raise the engine block.

I know i am limited on dropping the rack due to the lower control arm bracket holes.

I know i am limited on raising the engine due to the TKO600 clearing the tunnel.

 

I am going to try to drop the rack as much as i can ( possibly 1/8")

if that is not enough i will raise the engine as much as i can with out the tranny hitting the tunnel.

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I know i am limited on dropping the rack due to the lower control arm bracket holes.

I know i am limited on raising the engine due to the TKO600 clearing the tunnel.

 

I am going to try to drop the rack as much as i can ( possibly 1/8")

 

How much do you need to drop it? I have about 3/4 inch of shims and still have adjustment on the lower control arm to rack mount since they have slotted holes.

 

Just make sure that when when you shim it that much, you get longer grade 8 bolts for the rack to frame mounts.

 

If it is that bad, I would honestly start looking at a different oil pan.

 

I don't know how much different there is in the 302 vs 351 pan, but I have a 302, with a aftermarket pan that was 7/8 inch deeper where the rack crossed under. I also have Ron morris lowered engine mounts and a TKO600. I have my trans mount shimmed about 3/4 inch up, to where I barely have half a finger of clearance between my trans and tunnel. and everything fits tight, but it all fits.

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So i have taken your advise and decided to use shims between the frame rail and TCP rack mounts.... i have enough adjustment on the brackets for the lower control arms, but the brackets for the frame rails will require me to use 3/4" of spacers!!!!  that seems like alot of spacers.  Will this be safe?

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so just talked with TCP tech and they told me that i can do 3/4 spacers, but i will have to change out my tirerods to a bump steer set up and possible mess around with the geometry of the control arms/suspension setup. 

I dont see why this would be a problem with the steering set up the big block rack drops it down a total of .9".... anyone have the same issues?

 

fun doing mods to classic cars, always something to deal with

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