Northern Al Radiators vs brass copper

[69isfine 10]

Trying make a choice. Rad leak this week. Not many places rebuild or recode anymore. New price for standard rad is $225. The Northern is on sale for $265 around here.

 

Any experiences to share on the aluminum ones vs regular ones.

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Northern-ALL-PRO-aluminum-radiator-205137-pr-21406.html

[miketyler 15]

Generally I prefer copper/brass but aluminum looks more modern and is perfectly acceptable. There are lots of arguments out there on copper vs aluminum and I have found no substantial benefit of one over the other. I will say that many aluminum units are sold as "direct fit" but still have to have modifications made for mounting, fan shroud mount, hose location, etc. I do think Northern is one of the better brands out there.

[69isfine 10]

Thanks Mike. I am hoping someone can tell me if this rad will need modifications to fit. It doesn't show up on any of the mustang supply sites so knowledge is lacking.

[Rsanter 152]

Unless you really want the hot rod look go,with the brass

Finding someone to work on an aluminum radiator is about impossible.

There are still places that will work on a brass unit

 

Bob

[69isfine 10]

Unless you really want the hot rod look go,with the brass

Finding someone to work on an aluminum radiator is about impossible.

There are still places that will work on a brass unit

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob. Strange thing is that there are only 2 people in my city that will repair the brass ones. They wanted $350-400 for this work. Since this is the second rad replacement, I don't have the oem rad anymore.

 

Don

[jandj1970 13]

Unless you really want the hot rod look go,with the brass

Finding someone to work on an aluminum radiator is about impossible.

There are still places that will work on a brass unit

 

Bob

 

That's why I bought a brass radiator from US radiators, if the aluminium rad needs repairing its impossible to find someone to fix it.

Edited April 24, 2014 by jandj1970
needed to fix spelling

[miketyler 15]

I had bought a 4row aluminum Champion. It's a value-class radiator but was sold as a direct-fit. Well I can tell you nothing fit. It was nearly 2" taller than the top of the core support (surprisingly, the hood would close), the bottom inlet sat right on top of the torsion bar support, no tabs to attach the shroud with, it sat so high, the top saddle clamp was out of the question, trans lines didn't line up, etc. I bought the copper/brass unit by Vista and everything fit.

[69isfine 10]

Thanks Mike, I have both the aluminum arriving tomorrow and a brass copper to assess fit. Both are returnable to the local parts place and only 20-40 apart in price. The warranty is only a year on the Northern but lifetime on the champion.

[ksquared 13]

If you go with aluminum, I suggest spring mounting the radiator. Nothing elaborate but something to help reduce shock to it. Check your local Ace Hardware for a spring assortment. Also run a ground wire from the radiator to the engine/chassis.

[69isfine 10]

Hmm. Springs in an interesting idea. The grounding is to eliminate electrolysis?

[ksquared 13]

Yep about electrolysis. Ron Davis Racing even sells a grounding kit. Go to http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Grounding%20Kit%20Cut%20Sheet_v2.pdf

to see it. He wants $140 for it but you could easily make your own for a lot less. The springs reduce the amplitude of the shocks the radiator feels & therefore reduces metal fatigue & cracking. You will have to fabricate brackets to accomplish but that shouldn't be very hard. I'm thinking a spring about 1/4 to 3/8 in diameter and about 3/4 to 1 inch tall. The springs have to support the weight of the radiator and the water in it plus some for G forces. Wonder if someone already makes such a kit. I'll give Davis a call tomorrow (local to me).

[mustangstofear 608]

We sell a direct fit aluminum Radiator with 1 1/4 tubes compared to the competitors that are 5/8 to 1 inch max. A 2 row radiator will cool much better than a 4 row as long as you have larger tubes.

[Wycked69 20]

We sell a direct fit aluminum Radiator with 1 1/4 tubes compared to the competitors that are 5/8 to 1 inch max. A 2 row radiator will cool much better than a 4 row as long as you have larger tubes.

 

A very good point that many people tend to misunderstand. Logic would seem to have you think a 4 row would cool better. However, a large tube 2 row will always cool better than a 3 or 4 row.

 

I also think its best to advise those using an aluminum radiator when using a coolant that needs to be reduced with water, avoid using common tap water due to its impurities and mineral content. It is suggested to use distilled water. I even do the same for my brass radiator.

[moodster 55]

You're correct about distilled water with aluminum rads. I've also noticed many new engines, with lots of aluminum parts, require manufacturer specific antifreeze and more frequent changing. Look at Subaru for example with their all aluminum engines - they'll void your warranty if you don't change the antifreeze every 30k.

 

david

[Max Power 74]

I was thinking about an aluminum drop in as my brass has a hard time keeping us on hot days. Are any of you seeing improvement in reducing temps? Right now I run a 24" big block radiator, I think three row, brass.

[Wycked69 20]

I put an aluminum in my 66 and it seemed to definitely run cooler. Not a lot but it was cooler according to the temp gauge.

 

I prefer the brass my self just for the durability factor (and appearance)

 

I have a big block brass radiator in my 68 with a built 351C. With a fan shroud also being used, it has never ran hot. I am of the belief that using a proper thermostat, fan, and fan shroud, (correctly) solves many over heating issues.

[stangme428 33]

i also went with aluminum, it does seem to do a great job of dissipating heat, as the underhood temperatures around the radiator seem high.. not a bad thing. also, do not accidentally touch it.. lol

[Max Power 74]

Brass actually dissipates heat better as a metal, but where brass kinda falls down is the brazing on the cooling fins in brass radiators is a poor conductor. Aluminum makes the core to fin transition better.

[ksquared 13]

Yeah, distilled water is a given even without aluminum parts. I've used Redline WaterWetter with noticable success in my 75 Bronco (brass radiator). Temps seemed to drop by 3-5 degrees in the Arizona sun (non scientific test). Not sure if the product is safe to use in an aluminum radiator. Just called Redline to ask but their tech support guy is off today.

[69isfine 10]

Yep about electrolysis. Ron Davis Racing even sells a grounding kit. Go to http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Grounding%20Kit%20Cut%20Sheet_v2.pdf

to see it. He wants $140 for it but you could easily make your own for a lot less. The springs reduce the amplitude of the shocks the radiator feels & therefore reduces metal fatigue & cracking. You will have to fabricate brackets to accomplish but that shouldn't be very hard. I'm thinking a spring about 1/4 to 3/8 in diameter and about 3/4 to 1 inch tall. The springs have to support the weight of the radiator and the water in it plus some for G forces. Wonder if someone already makes such a kit. I'll give Davis a call tomorrow (local to me).

 

How many ground wires are needed. This kit has a fair number. Are you grounding where the supports mee the rad?

[ksquared 13]

My Mustang is still a work in progress so I have not yet implemented this grounding. As such, I don't yet know how many connections are needed. The Davis kit does have a lot of cables (8). I don't know why. Also, the $140 price seems ridiculous regardless of the quality of the components. I think there is some blather about oxygen free copper wire being used. What I would suggest is to measure the voltage between the radiator and the engine block with a good digital multi-meter (DMM). It should be as close to zero as possible. With dissimilar metals and impurities in the coolant, you might see something in the tens of millivolts - maybe more. I suspect that several upper & lower ground points will be needed to get really close to zero. If you just grounded the bottom of the radiator, you could still develop a voltage at the top. Another good reason for using distilled water is it's not a very good electrical conductor.

[69isfine 10]

A couple of things: I am sure I can find some shielded wire with terminal ends and likely to be copper. The Davis ones look like thin wire rope. Can I take 4 points on the rad to one point to ground for each side?

 

For antifreeze, I usually use premix only. I'll check the label for the distilled water.

Edited April 26, 2014 by 69isfine

[Nightowl 10]

I bought a direct fit aluminum one for my 69 4 speed. A direct fit is a stretch, as the bottom of the fan shroud had to be hacked away, and also the 2 side pieces that came with the car, needed to be put back in. I guess they were thrown away, and now I am searching for them. The fan was hitting the shroud, and if I tried to raise the radiator up, then the hood wouldn't close.:thumbdown:

[Max Power 74]

I bought a direct fit aluminum one for my 69 4 speed. A direct fit is a stretch, as the bottom of the fan shroud had to be hacked away, and also the 2 side pieces that came with the car, needed to be put back in. I guess they were thrown away, and now I am searching for them. The fan was hitting the shroud, and if I tried to raise the radiator up, then the hood wouldn't close.:thumbdown:

 

What brand was that?

[69isfine 10]

Is your name Max Power? If yes, super cool.