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miketyler

Restoring original PCB on instrument cluster?

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Have any of you ventured down this path? I am building up a few instrument panels and would like to avoid the expense of new PCB's. These look intact but are delaminating. I was thinking on cleaning and then attempting to re-laminate it using clear silicone? I assume silicone would be friendly to the copper traces? What do you think ?

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You know Mike I read this post earlier and it got me thinking as well. No reason for an older cluster PCB to not be fully functional if all the copper traces are clean and still good. Just because its delaminating should not affect its use. Therefore, I like the idea of using silicon to repair the laminate. I don't expect it to have good adhesion but worth a try. maybe some transparent 2-side adhesive film/tape would work just as well if not better. 3M makes a nice press and stock tape product and it wont dry hard

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I am using my original with no trouble, though it would b a stretch to say I restored it. The important thing is that the copper traces are intact and not broken, obviously. I buzzed them with an ohm meter to check. Using a rubber pencil eraser on the exposed copper is a great way to clean up the contact points. Silicon sound like a good way to fix up the delaminations, mine didn't need any as it was in fairly good shape. Good luck.

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I'm detailing and restoring a few clusters I purchased during my Mach 1 restoration. I really enjoy doing the cosmetic restoration. While I sprung for a new PCB on the tach panel for my car, the expense of a new PCB at around $100 is cost prohibitive when the old ones are working.

 

Once I repair any damaged traces and ring them out, I plan to reseal the delamination and then lightly polish the copper contacts for light, posts, and plug contacts. Its up to the buyer if they want to spring for new PCB or LED lights.

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Has anyone converted their PCB clusters to hard-wires with a multi-pin connector plug?

 

Personally, I don't think the PCB design that Ford went to was all that reliable. They are almost impossible to repair once the copper trace breaks. I much prefer the 65-68 style dash cluster connections.

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I have fixed a couple that got bent and broke close to the edge with no real issue. Not sure how well it will hold up. I don't like the flexible PCB either and although they are delicate and look like crap when they separate they seem to keep working. I would bet more people replace them for their looks and damaged appearance then for them actually not working.

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I was thinking on cleaning and then attempting to re-laminate it using clear silicone? I assume silicone would be friendly to the copper traces? What do you think ?

 

Make sure you get a water based Silicone. a lot of the stuff is ammonia based which will corrode the electronics over time.

 

I agree with you if they are working and you can save them go for it.

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If you can pull the two sides apart, how about spray adhesive.

The getto way would be to pull the part off that dosent have the wires and then put clear shelf paper on it.

Anyone have an old junk one? How about a test to clean it up and run it through a laminating machine?

 

Bob

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