Front end suspension upgrade??

[Chris'69Mach 23]

What are the pros and cons of a coil over conversion that is mounted on the UCA and the coil over conversion being mounted on the LCA?

 

Also, what conversion kit is the best for being a direct bolt on and not having to do any mods?

 

I am also wanting to do a power rack and pinion upgrade.... any suggestions for the best without having to make any mods? Kind of leary about cutting the steering column shaft.

[Jimjific 23]

Here are a couple of links of what I did for my suspension.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12922

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=13559

 

The main difference between upper and lower arm coil overs is that you can use a lighter spring on a coil over that attaches to the lower arm. This is because they mount further away from the arms pivot or attachment point. The lighter spring will equal a nicer ride.

 

One thing to remember about coil overs that I got fooled by because I didn't think it through is that you CAN NOT adjust your ride height with them. People think that if you adjust the spring perch it will lower the car. It doesn't since all that does is increase the pre-load on the spring.

 

Some day I will switch to the lower arm mounted coil overs. I'd like to make my own so until then, I went with the upper mount.

 

Hope this helps,

Jim

[Chris'69Mach 23]

Does anyone recommend a certain power rack and pinion and front coil overs with the least amount of mods?

[390mach1 49]

I just bought that Total control product kit as well. I can't wait tell it gets here an I can install it. I'm far from finished with the car so won't know how they ride. What did you get the 1" or 2" drop? How do you like them?

[Rsanter 152]

Frankly I do not like the geometry on any of the power rack set ups for the mustangs. They all have compromises that I do not like including loss of turning radius on many of them.

 

I recommend to replace the steering box with a integral power box like from CCP or borgeson. I like the CCP just a little bit better right now.

I am currently doing this conversion on my 69 and it will be less than $900 to do it.

 

Bob

[rwcstang 201]

I have Street Or Tracks "Sport" Coil Over Conversion, nice ride you totally feel the difference right away.

 

as for R&P most kits are not that great, but I herd great things about TCP.

 

Also, I herd Retro Rack (based in Australia) has a kit that is worth talking about, but I dont know much about them, maybe someone can chime in.

 

SummitRacing just started selling their products.

 

http://retrorack.net/lhd-retrorack-kits/67-70mustang-lhdkit

 

 

The RetroRack is unique because it is the only rack & pinion steering system in the world where every main component: The Pinion Housing, Valve Housing, Drag Link & Cylinder Barrel can be rotated 360º degrees and locked into desired position. This innovative and unique feature resolves tight fitments and mounting issues previously experience with other steering racks.

• Full 5 Axis CNC machining of every component from high strength T6061 Billet.

• 7 inches of rack travel.

• No cast or welded components providing the ultimate in strength and safety.

• Helical cut 4140 chrome moly rack bar and flame hardened with over a 1 inch O/A diameter.

• Every component is highly polished then ED Coated which providing corrosion resistance and requires no polishing.

• RetroRack exceeds global engineering and Australian Design Rules (ADR) standards.

• Lifetime Warranty.

 

The Retro Rack CTO (Center Take Off) is a world revolution in Universal Rack and Pinion design.

Every component is designed to rotate 360º degrees providing the ultimate in steering fitment flexibility and steering Geometrics.

 

Features of the Bolt in Kit:

Full Billet CNC including the Cylinder Barrel, Pinion Housing & Valve Housing with NO castings or welded components.

Highly Polished then ED Coated which eliminates repolishing and provides the ultimate protection from harsh conditions.

All Bolt in Kits come with detailed Installation Instructions

Matching RetroRack Custom Steering Columns (LHD) available

[Jimjific 23]

I used the TCP 1 inch drop upper mounting coil overs.

 

As far as rack's go, to me it is the single most noticeable improvement that you can make. Steering boxes old or new always have a dead spot and it only will get worse as they wear. The rack I use goes for ~$100 from NAPA. True, I worked with Larry to put my system together, but I would say on the high end I might have spent $800 for my conversion. Yes there is some turning radius loss and although I have some thoughts on how to get rid of it, it really hasn't bothered me after a year of driving the car.

 

Jim

[70Mach03 12]

I recently replaced the Mustang II R&P system that was on my 1970 Mach I when I got it 10 years ago. Going by the part numbers it was a 1978 Mustang II system I never really cared for it. It had a very wide turning radius, a vague road feel, bump steer, and finally, was leaking like a sieve. It looked like a cobbled together system. Hopefully a R/P kit would be better than what I had.

 

I decided to go with a Borgeson System. Problem for me was basically having to rebuild the old stock system to convert. While the Borgeson kit was cheaper than most of the other systems, once I got into it I had to buy a center link, idler/pitman arm, a power steering bracket as the 351 Cleveland engine used a unique bracket and a few other items. Also the 1970 Mustang used some one year only parts which incorporate 1 1/16†openings instead of the normal 1†for other years which were more expensive and harder to find.

 

Borgeson doesn’t make a kit for the 351C so they pieced together a kit for me sans a power steering bracket. I got it separately from March Pullies. The additional parts I had to buy pushed the price well past most replacement R&P systems.

 

Once installed, the steering effort was much higher initially, however I went to a big empty parking lot and did figure eight’s for a while and it loosened up. I’ve had the Borgeson system now for about six months and love it. It has good road feel and no bump steer problems. If I was replacing a stock Mustang system I’d recommend it for most people who want a good driver and not concerned with maintaining the stock system and look. There seems to be something "magical" in being able to say you have "Rack & Pinion" in your classic Mustang but I'm much happier with the Borgeson than I was with my "old" R&P.

 

Good luck with yours and keep us informed on your progress

[Jimjific 23]

Not trying to start an argument here, but there is nothing "magical" about a rack system other than they are better. Show me what modern car uses a recirculating ball steering box? It sounds like you had a bad rack experience due to a bad design. I have no bump steer in my system since the tie rods are mounted on a plate that locates them perfectly. Besides the superior design of a rack, one more thing to consider is that in my quick count, a rack eliminates 4 joints/pivots (Idler arms and such) that can wear and cause more slop.

 

Jim

[Chris'69Mach 23]

Basically, as many of you have figured out, I want the nice handling of a new car in the Mustang. I do not have a matching #'s Mach and love the creature comforts of the modern cars.

 

So, I figured "Suspension Upgrade" front and rear. I figured that I would tackle the more expensive front end first. I had already replaced all the suspension with new parts including the UCAs and LCAs... everything except the center link and everything below the P/S pump. I am still not satisfied with the handling.

 

I am looking for a good quality power rack and pinion set up and the same for the front coil over system. That won't break the bank and have the wife screaming at me.

 

Any recommendations would be clearly appreciated with the pros and cons.

[Chris'69Mach 23]

I have looked at what TCP offered for the front coil over set up and I'm intrigued. But which set up?

 

My Mustang is my DD by the way.

Edited January 3, 2014 by Chris'69Mach
spelling

[rwcstang 201]

Basically' date=' as many of you have figured out, I want the nice handling of a new car in the Mustang. I do not have a matching #'s Mach and love the creature comforts of the modern cars.

 

So, I figured "Suspension Upgrade" front and rear. I figured that I would tackle the more expensive front end first. I had already replaced all the suspension with new parts including the UCAs and LCAs... everything except the center link and everything below the P/S pump. I am still not satisfied with the handling.

 

I am looking for a good quality power rack and pinion set up and the same for the front coil over system. That won't break the bank and have the wife screaming at me.

 

Any recommendations would be clearly appreciated with the pros and cons.[/quote']

 

 

coil overs will be fine with DD is just depends on how stiff you want it to be, I went with SOT coilvoer kit because they had 3 different type of spring rates.

 

if you want in all in one kit, go with TCP you can go with the Coilover set up now and then later you can get their Rack & Pinion. What I like about their company is that you can build your car in stages instead of having to buy one whole kit.

[Jimjific 23]

Here's what I went with from M.U.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=COC3+01&catkey=65-73$srccode=MUEMVWEB

 

I've been pretty happy with them. I couldn't see paying the extra money for the double adjustable. As it is, you get 16 settings to choose from. You can definitely tell the difference between 1, 8 and 16. One nice thing about coil overs too is that when you need to work on your suspension, they make it easy to tear it down since you don't need a spring compressor. I did replace their upper mounting plates with my own so I could attach a home made Monte Carlo bar.

 

Jim

[chillininnh 21]

I'm using the Ron Morris Tubular Coil-Over Front Suspension and it is a HUGE improvement over stock and am very pleased with it. If I were shopping for a coil-over conversion I would want a kit that moves the coil to the lower control arm. I really like the Street or Track coil-over kit and would be my choice for my next project.

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

[RPM 1,190]

coil overs will be fine with DD is just depends on how stiff you want it to be, I went with SOT coilvoer kit because they had 3 different type of spring rates.

 

 

As long as you go with a common size coil over with a 2-1/2" diameter spring, several companies (AFCO, QA1, Eibach, Bilstein and others) make quality springs in a wide variety of rates. For example on front set ups with a 12" length spring which mounts to the lower arm as most have, Ron Morris uses 350# for small blocks, other companies use 450#. But you can get the springs in 25# increments to pick whichever fits you and your set up. Even though SoT offers three spring rates, you are not limited to those. There are several sites that have spring rate calculators to get your set up close. Rear suspensions have the same variations in spring rates depending on the company. But it all boils down to your preference on the comfort you want, and the type of driving you do. Good luck.

 

Bob

[chillininnh 21]

As long as you go with a common size coil over with a 2-1/2" diameter spring, several companies (AFCO, QA1, Eibach, Bilstein and others) make quality springs in a wide variety of rates. For example on front set ups with a 12" length spring which mounts to the lower arm as most have, Ron Morris uses 350# for small blocks, other companies use 450#. But you can get the springs in 25# increments to pick whichever fits you and your set up. Even though SoT offers three spring rates, you are not limited to those. There are several sites that have spring rate calculators to get your set up close. Rear suspensions have the same variations in spring rates depending on the company. But it all boils down to your preference on the comfort you want, and the type of driving you do. Good luck.

 

Bob

 

Real good point Bob. I bought my RM kit back in 2007 and it actually came with QA1 12-400 springs. I have never weighed my car but using the charts on the Ride-Tech site I was able to make a guesstimate that the front of my car probably weighs in around 1900 lbs. I then went to the AFCO site and using their calculator I'm in the ball park with the 400's. The chart recommends 375's but seeing that my front end weight is a bit of a guess I decided to leave them be. I'm just cruising this old girl all over hell's creation and the ride is firm but forgiving.

[Rip Rock 13]

I really liked the TCP front end stuff. Easy to put in and was a major improvement over the stock stuff. Used it for a year then bought a 5.4 so I had to take it all out. Have a R&C in there now, just so I could fit in the wide motor. So I got the TCP stuff sitting on the shelf wondering what to do with it.