69_mach_1 10 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) Any body re-skin a 69 mach door? I need to know how to get the old skin off. How do you remove the top section, more specifically the spot welds in the window channel? Edited September 3, 2013 by 69_mach_1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 Just re-skinned a couple doors about 2 months ago. My first time at it as well. The only place you will need to be concerned with is the outer folded hem. If you notice when you have the replacement ski, it already ahs the upper section attached to it. Use a flap disk sander and sand the very leading edge of the hem on all 3-side till you see 3 layers of metal. The skin will pretty much lift off from here except for the occasional stray spot weld. Its pretty self explanatory. Taking the old skin off and cleaning up the shell is a piece of cake. Installing the new skin so that the hem is nice and flat is a SOB ! Its definitely a 2 man job if you have nothing to hold the door with Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bomccorkle 12 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 I must say I was pretty spooked before I did mine but it was far simpler than quarters if that's any consolation. Just set it on there and go to work with the hammer. Bend the lip incrementally around (it'll take a good five passes) and expect to have to use filler around the edge of the door dolly marks are inevitable trying to get that crisp bend Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69_mach_1 10 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 Thanks Guys, I understand how to get the front edge and the bottom edge off, my concern is the top edge where the window comes through. It doesn't look like I can get anything in there to get to the spot welds? And have you tried the Skin Zipper tool to put the new one on? That looks like a good investment even for 2 doors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 Look at your new skin. You will notice nothing is attached to the top except at the front where there is a brace with a couple spot welds at the front end of the door. All the stuff at the top is also on the new skin so you don't need to remove it. Used the skin zipper. Its a frustrating art. Don't let the video fool you. Its not that easy and especially with the3 door lines. The video shows a straight seam door. Your 69 is only straight at the bottom. By the second door I was using just the dolly and hammer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69_mach_1 10 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 Thanks for the info. I haven't bought the skins yet. I was just looking at the door to see what was involved. Ill take another look at it tonight and see if I can make sense of it!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 I guess you could say I "slightly" rebuilt my driver's door. The bottom was rotted from some lovely rat nest. If you are wondering what your inner door should look like before the skin goes on... there are just a couple of places where the top of the outer part of the door top touch the inner structure. I have a skin for the pass. side, might shoot a pic, if you like. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 I did my passengers side door. I took my angle grinder & went all around the outer edges & ground it until the skin came loose. It was easy, took me about 1/2 hour to get the old skin off. After I cleaned up the inside of the door I used Mastercoat silver rust preventive paint on the inside of the door before installing the new skin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 The top portion on the door skin attaches to two areas, front and rear. There are small tabs that get spot welded, you will find them when you take the old skin off. I couldn't get a good pic of the front tab, but the rear is behind the inner structure. Not to bad, just a little tight. When you get going, and if you run into a problem, I'm quite shure there are a few of us who will be able to help you threw it, hope it helps clarify the situation a little. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69_mach_1 10 Report post Posted September 5, 2013 Thanks for the pics guys, that helps a lot. Sorry for the delayed response was out of commission the last two days!! I'll let you know how it goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted September 17, 2013 I was gun shy of the dolly and used a hard rubber mallott as a dolly. I am sure it caused me to make a few extra passes but resulted in zero dents in the outside skin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bomccorkle 12 Report post Posted September 17, 2013 Good thinking sir. I bet a dead blow would work well too, wish I'd have thought of that. All in all not too bad huh? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted September 18, 2013 Nope not at alll. Spent 20 at harbor freight on a skinning kit. After fixing the frame and installing the door popper then shaving the door handle installing the skin took a tad over an hour. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites