69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 All, I have been having a few electrical gremlins. Let me preface my question with what I am dealing with. I have a restored the underdash wire harness (mid-life wire harness) new firewall forward wire harness, new headlight switch, new headlights, new fuses, new dimmer switch. Issue #1 Low beam lights, parking lights, and turn signals all work fine when you pull headlight switch out. When I switch to high beam the low beams go out and the high beams do not come on. All other lights work fine. Issue #2 Circuit Board lights do not work (granted its the original printed circuit board) I have a new one on order but they use to work before I connected headlights. (Made me think I blew a fuse) I checked the fuse panel with a test light and I am only getting power on one side of the fuse on two fuses. (keep in mind these are new fuses installed by mid-life) I feel they are the correct fuses and should be new. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
therebel 10 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 If there is power on one side of the fuse and not the other, than the fuse is bad. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. OHM test the fuses. That is the only way to tell if they are good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 With the fuse out, there is still only power on one side is that correct? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969mustang 10 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) With the fuse out, there is still only power on one side is that correct? Yes that is correct. I am having a similar problem with my high beam lights. The low beams work perfect but when I switch to high beams they come on for a couple of minutes, flicker on and off, the all headlights go off completely. If I tap the dimmer switch and put them back on dim the dims come back on and they work perfect. I'm thinking I need to replace my dimmer switch because I'm still using the original. Edited August 29, 2013 by 1969mustang Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 Checked the fuses. You are correct. Two of them were bad. Still did not fix the low beam going out when high beam is engaged. I have looked for grounds on the headlight harness and can not find any. Could that be my problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
therebel 10 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) Headlights ground back through the harness and then to ground somewhere but without a schematic, I cannot tell you exactly where. There won't be one in the bucket. Sounds like your dimmer switch on the floor may be bad. Edited August 29, 2013 by therebel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kris 90 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) your low beams should shut off when your high beams are engaged, thats how mine worked before I tore my car down to rebuild it. Sounds like it is working correctly to me. Edited August 29, 2013 by Kris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 I would try another head light switch, it sounds to me like it is no good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
therebel 10 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 your low beams should shut off when your high beams are engaged, so it sounds like it is working correctly to me Mine didn't. All four where on when I hit the highs. Newer vehicles normally cut the lows when the highs are on but I didn't think our cars did that. OP, do your lows have a two or three prong connection? If two then they should go out when your turn the highs on. If three then they should stay on from what I remember. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 29, 2013 I have read all four should be on when on high beam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 Headlight switch is not the cause of the high beam failures. The headlight switch provides power to the dimmer switch, which simply switches it over to low beams or high beams. If low beams work and high beams don't, it is likely the dimmer switch that is bad. To test it, unplug the switch and jumper the red/orange wire to the red/black wire (high beams). If high beams work, then switch is definitely bad. The two bad fuses: do you think they were bad when I provided the harness? I check continuity across all fuses during my final checkout procedure. I will willingly provide replacements upon request. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 No the fuses were good. I found an exposed wire on my headlight extension. You did a great job! I'm going to get a new dimmer switch and report my findings Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaun071 62 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 Was there a clicking coming from the headlight switch? Also do you have higher wattage headlights fitted? I had a similar problem when I converted my lights over to halogen lights. The headlight switch has an inbuilt circuit breaker and if you fit higher output lights without fitting relays to the headlight circuit the breaker will trip when you turn high beam on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 I have not heard a ticking. I am using halogen bulbs I got from autozone . I went and got a new dimmer switch today also and still have the same issue. You think the Halogen bulbs are the problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 forgot to mention. I am using Sylvania Part # H5001XV and H5006XV for high and low beams. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 I have not heard a ticking. I am using halogen bulbs I got from autozone . I went and got a new dimmer switch today also and still have the same issue. You think the Halogen bulbs are the problem? Absolutely. Halogen lamps use more current than the headlight switch/circuit breaker was designed for. If you want to continue using Halogen lamps, you'll need to use a relay directly off of the battery and the trigger signal will be the headlight signal. You'll need one relay for low beams and another for high beams. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 Figured out my problem. The person who installed my firewall forward wire harness got two wires backward when re-pinning the connectors. After much checking I pulled out the diagram and double checked and found his mistake. It works fine now and everything lights up! Thanks for all the help and info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted September 3, 2013 It sure sounds like you have a dimmer switch problem. And all for headlights are on for high beam. There are 2 filaments in each of the low beam light bulbs, one for high and one for low. So the low beam light bulbs might have one filament broken so maybe it looks like it works for the high beam and does not for the low beam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted September 4, 2013 Figured out my problem. The person who installed my firewall forward wire harness got two wires backward when re-pinning the connectors. After much checking I pulled out the diagram and double checked and found his mistake. It works fine now and everything lights up! Thanks for all the help and info. I know that the Alloy Metal reproductions have two green/black wires of the same gauge (high beams and washer pump), but switching those two wires doesn't account for your original issue. Can I ask which two wires were backwards? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted September 4, 2013 It was the two green black wires. they say in the instructions that one is bigger gauge than other. the bigger one needing to be on the #5 pin. The guy who wired my car had them backwards. i also found some of the pins not all the way pulled through only making partial contact. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted September 10, 2013 OK. I have more problems. Now that I have fixed the headlight problems, I have other problems. I do not have power going to my oil pressure indicator. And I am blowing my courtesy light fuse. When I first hooked everything up correctly. All my gauges seemed to work fine. I had oil pressure indicator, fuel gauge, and temp. (This is a w/tach car). When I put a test light on the fuse tabs I get power on some and none on others. Where do you even start? These parts I have replaced: New CVR New Headlight Switch New Dimmer switch New Printed Circuit Board New Headlight Harness New Headlight Extensions New Voltage Regulator New Ground Strap New Battery Cables Help Please!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted September 10, 2013 I forgot to post what things work and what does not: Things that work: Headlight (High Beam & Low Beam) Parking lights Turn Signals (front and rear) emergency flasher Marker lights Tail Lights Brake Lights Dash lights Heater motor Things that do not work or have problems. No oil pressure indicator light (worked before now it does not) Both 20 amp fuses show no power 4 amp fuse shows no voltage when tested 14 amp courtesy light works for a while then blows fuse Clock does not get voltage (I believe on the same fuse as couresy light Gas gauge moves from burried empty to on the E when key is on. Have not ran the car to see if water temp gauge works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted September 10, 2013 For the courtesy lamps, check for a pinched or grounded wire. The guages need to have the centering spacers installed. When you replaced the printed film, Did you recheck all of the pods for center? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted September 10, 2013 The Gauges have the centering spacers still installed. I assumed they were centered if they were still on? I did look at them and they seemed not to be touching. I did not want to remove the spacers for fear they would tear or break. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted September 10, 2013 With the key in the "run" position, both side of every fuse should have 12 volts. If only one side of a fuse has voltage, the fuse is blown. This is the place to start. You could have a bad key switch, because the voltage goes from the battery, to the key switch, then to the fuse panel. 2 of the fuses do not go through the key switch, the should have voltage on them even if the key is off. For the oil pressure light, if you disconnect the wire that attached to the oil pressure sense switch ( near the fuel pump), and short between this wire connector and ground, the oil light should go on. You also need the key in the "run" position. If you put a voltmeter in this cable connector pin, you should get 12 volts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites