Questions regarding Sound Deadening

[prayers1 153]

I want to install a Butyl peel and stick type of Sound Deadener on the roof, floor boards and doors. I've read on several reviews that state, it will unpeel after it gets too hot from sitting outside in the sun. I don't want this to happen after the headliner is installed. Rattle Trap was the only product review that I read about that has good sticking properties.

 

Has anyone had the Peel n Stick type sound deadener come apart from the roof?????

If not, what product are you using.

 

Also, I want to install a Mass Mat Carpet and I still have the OEM sound deadener. Is it possible to install a Foil type sound deadener then the original sound deadener then the mass mat carpet. Or, is that too much material?

 

Do you think the mass mat can take place of the OEM Sound Deadener. The Company claims that the mass mat material is a sound deadener?

Edited August 12, 2013 by prayers1
More of a Question

[prayers1 153]

Anyone?

[danno 128]

I used the insulation that Heating and air conditioning people use to wrap heat ducts to insulate them. I only used this on my floor, as I was trying to keep the engine heat out of the interior. I figured if it is good enough to take the heat ducts, it could handle my car floor. No sticky stuff to worry about. I think when it is installed around a duct, they use a high temp tape, but under my carpet I did not need that. I even have it on the inside of the firewall, between the heater box and firewall. You will have to figure out a way to stick it to you roof, but that should not be difficult with some glues.

[therebel 10]

On my 06 GT I used the black roofing tape that they sell at the hardware store to fix leaky shingles. I only had it in the trunk but it never came off. One side is shiny just like the other sound insulation stuff but was a lot cheaper. It worked pretty good and kept my subs from rattling the the trunk lid. I no longer have the car but I may have a pic somewhere if I can find it.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

For the roof area, use some R11 insul and 3M spray adhesive sprayed on both roof and insul. it will stick and be light weight,plyable and easy to hide.

For the floors, remember each layer of underlayment will raise the carpet level affecting everything from seat height to fittment of trim.

[Mach 351 10]

I used the peel and stick type insulation. Instead of the asphalt base I used the closed-cel foam type. It doesn't smell when it’s hot and you don’t have to worry about it soaking up any water. I laid down an elastomeric paint before hand for extra sound-proofing and insulation (get the type with micro-spheres in it). So far I've only used it on my floors, trunk and doors. I used aluminum tape, but it tends to come up in places you touch with your hands. Altogether, it makes a heck of a difference in both temp and sound. The doors have a nice ‘thunk’ when you close them. I used 3M spray for the doors and just let gravity work on the floors and trunk. I haven’t done the headliner yet, but have heard that the 3M spray is more than enough to keep it up.

[miketyler 15]

I used Dynamat in my Cuda. None of it has released nor was there a smell that I ever noticed. I also used Dynamat plus the Butyl OEM mat and dont see any noticeable difference anywhere. Dynamat is about 1/16" thick and the butyl liner might be 1/8" to 5/32".

Edited August 12, 2013 by miketyler

[prayers1 153]

Thank you all, thats good advise.

 

The OEM material does not cover the seat riser, so there will no no effect in height.

 

Mach 351- what was the name of the material used on your doors. Was it the closed -cel foam?

[Mach 351 10]

Yeah, I used the closed-cel foam insulation on the floors and doors. It works really good and at a fraction of the cost of dynamat. On average it's about $20 for a roll 12"x12'. You can get it at just about any hardware or home improvement place. I think the name brand was something like 'Frost King'. I used 3M spray on the doors for a little extra insurance against peeling. I definitely plan on using it on my headliner as well once I decide to tackle that task.

[miketyler 15]

FrostKing is pretty good stuff for thermal protection but is fairly light. The stuff I bought was grey and came with a heavy foil backing. It didnt stick well for me and I dont think it will offer much in the way of sound deadening but better than nothing.

[prayers1 153]

Mike, how are you liking the Dynamat in the Cuda. Was it worth the money.

 

I already purchased the roof insulation from CJ, so I was thinking of doing this.

FatMat sells a product called Ratteltrap, it's 70 mil, it's suppose to be the stickiest of all sound deadeners. Reason for Rattle trap, I'm concerned on hot days that other deadeners could come loose under the headliner and the cost isn't that bad.

I was going to line the roof with that, then use the roof insulation then headliner.

 

On the floors, I was gonna buy the ACC Mass Mat, it has a built in sound deadener, since I have the OEM mats, I was gonna install that before carpet.

 

On the doors, I was thinking only the Rattletrap, the side closet to the panel. My windows and hardware are already install, so I'm not gonna do the door skin.

 

In the voids near the wheel wells and 1/4 panel, I was going to look for that packing material that comes bulked wrapped in plastic, usually used for packing large items or go to a local HVAC supplier and see what plastic wrap insulation is available. I want to stuff the voids up to the end of the back seat backrest.

 

What do you think?

Edited August 13, 2013 by prayers1
Forgot a word

[miketyler 15]

I used Dynamat all over the Cuda and did the Mach 1 the same way. I was reluctant to line the inside after I went to all the trouble of cleaning and painting it body color. No regrets now, it has all stayed stuck in the doors, floors, quarters, firewall/cowl and roof and we have some serious hot temps here in TX. It may be a bit more expensive but I did shop smart and found deals on eBay and Craigslist.

 

As far as added insulation I always thought more was more. I have the pink insulation batting in the two rear side panels and may Dynamat the inside of the fiberglass panels themselves.

 

I used the thermal king stuff in addition to Dynamat on the cowl only because the factory had the added sheet there. Is all probably overkill but it was cheap and easy to do while it was all open.

Edited August 14, 2013 by miketyler

[prayers1 153]

Mike,

Thank you for taking the time to get back to me.

John

[MikeStang 247]

helped a friend do his entire car in Dynamat...Well we didnt do the doors or roof area, but the floors, firewall, trunk, inner fender wells etc...are all done....let me tell you this, its a SUPER PAIN IN THE ASS TO REMOVE.....

This stuff will not turn loose in the heat, if anything I think it will just make it more sticky because it will soften it up a bit and allow it to form fit the area even better...we used a blow dryer and the little roller thing to install it...

All in all an awesome product.

 

I personally Used a spray on deadner called Lizard skin.....I sprayed it ALL one the inside of the car, along with under the car as well...

I had the inside and underside sand blasted, tehn applied POR 15 both inside and out, let it cure for a week or two, then went back and scuffed it as recommended per their instructions, then applied the Lizard skin, then scuffed that and applied another layer of POR 15 just under the bottom for a nice shiny look and some additional protection LOL.....car sounds very solid

[PaleRider 12]

I used Fatmat - not on roof though. Did put on inside doors sticks fine - no smell