dpuwookie79 11 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 I'm trying to install a newer din style radio in my '69 vert, but am unsure about power usage through the stock wiring harness. The setup I'm going to be installing includes the head unit connected to an amp in the trunk. I'll only be using the pre-outs and remote on the head unit. Power to the amp will be provided using a separate (new) set of high gauge/insulated wiring straight from the battery. So, more specifically, my question is, will I be safe to use the stock harness to provide power & accessory power to the head unit? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cayenne06 10 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 When mine was installed they ran a new line for the head unit as well as for the amps in the trunk. A clean power supply to a high quality head unit will make a difference in the sound. Also you can avoid possible engine noise and hum if you run a dedicated line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpuwookie79 11 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Did you use the stock "accessory" line? If not, where/how did you wire in a new one? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Hey Dpuwookie, where in Indianapolis do you live? I'm in Beech Grove! We need to get together, talk cars and perhaps help each other out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpuwookie79 11 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Hey LilMike, I live near Greenwood... so we're pretty darn close! Send me a PM about your project & etc. I'd be interested in meeting up some time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cayenne06 10 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Did you use the stock "accessory" line? If not, where/how did you wire in a new one? Thanks According to my audio guy they ran a new ignition and constant power line from the fuse box. I am not a technical person so don't have the details. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpuwookie79 11 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Alrighty, thanks for checking into it Cayenne! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 From what I recall, the factory radio connector is a 2-pin male/female connector. One wire is the power (yellow/black) and one is for the radio light (blue/red). I'm pretty sure the yellow/black is the switched 12v, so you will need to run a constant 12v wire. I spliced into the cigar lighter for my 12v wire. I've had no issues using the stock switched 12v wire for my Pioneer CD player. I bought a 2-pin connector from the auto parts store (look in the trailer wiring section), plugged it into the factory harness and hooked up my switched 12v wire to that pigtail and simply left the radio light wire unused (end terminal crimped to avoid grounding the wire). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 Hey LilMike, I live near Greenwood... so we're pretty darn close! Send me a PM about your project & etc. I'd be interested in meeting up some time. Yeah, we are close. Just sent you a PM. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 I agree with Buening, you should be able to connect the radio to the wires where your old radio was. You will need a constant 12volts all the time to supply the radio memory, but you will also need 12 volts to run the radio. If you run a new wire to the battery to run the radio, you will have power on your radio all the time. So that would mean you need a relay. Hook it up to your old wires and see how it works, I will bet it will be fine. Hooking up a wire direct to the battery does give you cleaner voltage without too much noise, but your radio should be able to handle it and not affect the sound. Definately hook your amps in the trunk directly to the battery. Also make sure they have a real good ground. Depending on the size of the amplifiers, you should consider a #12 or maybe even #10 wire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Secz 26 Report post Posted May 1, 2013 I installed an alpine head unit in my '70 Mustang. It's really easy. First run a constant power line (yellow) and plug it into the fuse box. I plugged mine in the fuse box using the same fuse that operates the horn and the flashers. The yellow wire is the "memory" for the radio, basically keeps all of your presets and the time while the car is off. The main power source needs to be connected to a switchable power source from the steering column. Use a tester and test the red wires in the dash and find one that comes on when you turn the key into the Accessory position. Then you can splice into that wire. If you have the factory radio, you can cut off the wire harness off of the back of the old radio and wire up the new radio to the old harness. That way you can use factory connectors, but you will still have to run a new memory wire to the fuse box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted May 2, 2013 If you have the factory radio, you can cut off the wire harness off of the back of the old radio and wire up the new radio to the old harness. That way you can use factory connectors, but you will still have to run a new memory wire to the fuse box. You can simply unplug the factory radio from the main harness and use aftermarket bullet plugs for switched power and lights. I hate to see butchered harnesses that really don't need to be butchered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpuwookie79 11 Report post Posted May 2, 2013 You can simply unplug the factory radio from the main harness and use aftermarket bullet plugs for switched power and lights. I hate to see butchered harnesses that really don't need to be butchered. Unfortunately someone butchered the harness long before I got to the car. Fortunately the leads mentioned by previous posters are still there! I tested them out and it looks like the power problem for the head unit has been resolved. Will post pics when I get the harnesses permanantly attached! Thanks for your help everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 2, 2013 Below is the connector you can buy at any parts store in the trailer section (which matches the factory plug to eliminate any cutting): Just cut the two wires in the middle of the above connector harness and you have two connectors to use on future projects like this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites