Quarter Panel Roof Line (pictures)

[LSwat 10]

So I have everywhere on the quarter panel welded except this top roof line. I obviously removed the factory led and the more I think about it, the less I want to re-led it. I also recall reading that the lead will bleed through the paint after a year or two. regardless if this is true or a myth, I was thinking of welding a nice solid bead at this connecting point, and then filling it in with some metal fill.

 

 

Obviously I am looking for some feedback/thoughts on this idea, and if anyone has done this before.

 

 

[manley 13]

I asked the same question awhile back and decided to weld the entire edge to prevent the possibility of the filler cracking later. Someone also suggested cutting a piece of sheet metal to fill that area even more in order to reduce the amount of filler needed.

 

Don't let the metal get too hot or you might warp all your hard work!

[Grabber70Mach 107]

How about this:

 

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/topic,17137.msg225434.html#msg225434

[latoracing 256]

I would recommend solid welding all the led seamed areas. There can be some stress where these pannels join, and if they are just "tacked" into place, the body work put over these areas will eventually crack. I do this to any car that I am completely repainting. The filler you put over this area will cover all the welds. Makes for a better job and a little piece of mind. Use caution, keep the heat down, or you will have a bunch of body work to do. I go 3/4" then move to a cool area.

Looks like we're in the same area of our builds. I just got all the sheet metal on the rear of my build, and had just came in from an afternoon of welding.

Hope this helps.

[Wycked69 20]

We kind of did this differently than most people. Seeing how the original assembly was "spot welded" through all three metal layers (which makes for a stronger joint) we did the following for strength and durability.

 

We drilled totally through all three metal layers with a 3/8" brad point bit at every "previous" spot weld joint. We We then ran a 5/16-18 bolt with fender washer through every other hole and placed a fneder washer and nut on the opposing side. We titghtened the bolts to "squeeze the metal layers together. We dollyed down the lip of the roof at the seam and placed small tacks to keep it down. Now vision for moment every other hole having a bolt clamping the material together while those in between do not. Next we took a 1/2" diameter 16 gauge metal slug and my brother compressed that slug over the open hole on the inside of the open hole while i plugged weld the hole closed. The slug provided an excellent base for the plug weld. After doing all the open holes this way, we removed the bolts and did the same to those holes as well.

 

I assure your this joint is as strong or stronger than the original joint. We cleaned things up and leaded the seam just as it was when it was produced at the factory. Made for a beautiful joint. When you look to the inside, you see all the round disk that seem like a rivet but its not.

 

P.S. The lead work will not bleed through or cause the paint to lift over time if you clean and follow the neutralizing process as instructed.

[LSwat 10]

I asked the same question awhile back and decided to weld the entire edge to prevent the possibility of the filler cracking later. Someone also suggested cutting a piece of sheet metal to fill that area even more in order to reduce the amount of filler needed.

 

Don't let the metal get too hot or you might warp all your hard work!

 

Good suggestions, thank you I plan to do 6 to 8 separate welds across there with a large amount of time in between to allow proper cooling.

 

What did you decide to do? How has it held up?

[latoracing 256]

We kind of did this differently than most people. Seeing how the original assembly was "spot welded" through all three metal layers (which makes for a stronger joint) we did the following for strength and durability.

 

We drilled totally through all three metal layers with a 3/8" brad point bit at every "previous" spot weld joint. We We then ran a 5/16-18 bolt with fender washer through every other hole and placed a fneder washer and nut on the opposing side. We titghtened the bolts to "squeeze the metal layers together. We dollyed down the lip of the roof at the seam and placed small tacks to keep it down. Now vision for moment every other hole having a bolt clamping the material together while those in between do not. Next we took a 1/2" diameter 16 gauge metal slug and my brother compressed that slug over the open hole on the inside of the open hole while i plugged weld the hole closed. The slug provided an excellent base for the plug weld. After doing all the open holes this way, we removed the bolts and did the same to those holes as well.

 

I assure your this joint is as strong or stronger than the original joint. We cleaned things up and leaded the seam just as it was when it was produced at the factory. Made for a beautiful joint. When you look to the inside, you see all the round disk that seem like a rivet but its not.

 

P.S. The lead work will not bleed through or cause the paint to lift over time if you clean and follow the neutralizing process as instructed.

 

Wow. I didn't go through quite that much trouble, but connecting the 3 parts together is a must. I bent the roof skin up and out of the way, ran sheet metal screws between every other plug weld hole, connected the quarter to the sub structure. Once those were welded, removed screws and welded those holes, knocked down all the high spots with a 3" disc, and worked the roof skin back down where it needed to be. I am quite shure Wycked69's method compresses the 3 metal layers as much, if not more than using a spot welder, but with a lot more weld area, that will be quite strong. My "2 layer" compresses the metal together, and all the plug weld holes were drilled in the same locations (where I removed the origonal spot welds) plus a few more.

[MikeStang 247]

weld it all the way.

We used Panel Bond and filler

[maxum96 32]

Here's what a member over on Vintage Mustang Forum does. He owns a body shop.

 

 

After grinding

 

[LSwat 10]

so I have a solid weld seam across the entire section, however after grinding it down it seems slightly low.

 

What does everyone use to raise weld seams? All metal? Bondo?

 

I am concerned with that big of an area that it may crack over time. Has anyone ever done epoxy to raise the section and then top coat it with bondo or tiger hair?

 

Just looking for what will be the strongest bond there and I don't want to re-lead it.

[LSwat 10]

Decided to go with all metal and then topping it with Rage Extreme. I'll post pics once completed.