Ray 10 Report post Posted May 5, 2016 Is it possible to post some pictures of the stub tech spindles when you install them, also what offset will you be using on your front wheels, I am curious to see how the steering arm clears the wheel.....Thanks...Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted May 6, 2016 Hi Ray, I'm not sure if I will be using them. I bought them with use of an 18" wheel in mind. I've not bought any wheels yet, and I think I will go for 19" wheels. In that case I might not use the Stub Tech spindles, because the 19" wheels will clear the stock location upper ball joint anyway. An 18" wheel will not, and limit the depth of the rim. Hence the drop spindles. I'll probably do a mock up with them later. Will post pictures. If I decide that I don't need them, I'll sell them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 BAM! Engine is in after grinding down the bottom of the motor mount ears a little bit on the drivers side, due to the Dynacorn shock towers was a bit off with the mounting holes. We then tried to get the T-56 to fit, but it wouldn't so modifications to the transmission tunnel needs to be done. Also, with the rear suspension back in the car, and my brothers 12" rims /335 tires on the car I got confirmation that the wheel well modifications works. The 335 tire was just a little bit to wide (outwards), so 315 tire should work, and perhaps even an 325 tire. The rim has 6.5" backspace, so I now know that I can run that. I'll probably go for an 11" wide rim. This is more clearance than my brother has with the same wheel on his '70 Barracuda. I'll probably hammer that lip a bit for more clearance. There was more clearance on the driver side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 That motor sure looks nice in there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 Got my Rimblow steering wheel back from http://www.rimblowsteeringwheels.com/. It looks great! He could not restore the foam in the pad, so I might buy a new pad for it. We'll see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 These are some before shots: Needless to say, I'm very pleased with the result of the restauration! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 That sure looks nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted July 15, 2016 Haven't done much lately, as we've been painting the workshop floors. But it turned out great. It'll be a joy to start working on the car after the summer holidays. It's amazing how the ceiling lights reflects to the undercarriage now. It'll be a lot easier to work under the car from now on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 16, 2016 Paint that bad boy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted July 16, 2016 Paint that bad boy! LOL, yeah I would! But you see, I ran into a cashflow problem :( Still, need to fit the T-56 first, (got the T-56 spec transmission tunnel support from NPD the other day) and need to flush fit the rear bumper before paint anyway. So I still got work to do at least. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted August 7, 2016 Got the TCP control arms back from powdercoating. Turned out real nice. Very happy with the result! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 8, 2016 Yes they do look nice, very nice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted August 11, 2016 Also got the Headers back, with a new thermal coating. Gonna start fittning the T-56 soon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 11, 2016 The headers do look nice. Is it just called a thermal coating, or is there a trade name? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted August 14, 2016 It's just a ceramic coating. Just for show; here's the before pic of the headers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Time for an update again. Started on getting the Tremec T-56 Magnum installed. First up was installing the engine. Dropped right in of course. Next up, the Magnum. Test fit to see where it hit the floors. It did hit the transmission tunnel crossmember first. I'm using the TCP motor mounts, and I can't drop the engine any more because the Rack & Pinion goes under the oilpan. I know guys who has Mustang 2 style suspension or front steer rack can lower the engine more, and don't have to cut up the floors. Started drilling out spot welds for the transmission tunnel crossmember. 3 Brianguple, Zefevinee and annta60 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Started cutting out the crossmember. Most of it removed. A lot of tools were needed to get it out. Drill, air chissel, pneumatic and electric saws, cutting wheels, and of course crowbars. All of it out. New and old crossmember. The new one is made for the T-56 and is 1.5" taller than the original crossmember. I got it from NPD, P/N 6A023-14A. Then started cutting out the tunnel. All of it out. Before I cut it, I had the heater box in the car, to see the that it wouldn't interfere. I think I'll be ok with the console too, but it might need som reworking to fit over the taller crossmember. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Transmission is in. The rear crossmember of course is in the excact spot of the parking brake brackets. So this is where I am now. I might make a brake that ties up with the TCP subframe X-brace, I'm not sure yet. Got some thinking to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Looking very much like what mods I've had to do to my floor to get my TR6060 in place as well. There's a whole lot of knock on effect with the upgrade. But it'll be so worth it once done. Very nice work. Well done. And that new floor in the workshop makes a massive difference! It looks so impressive in there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Cool. The TR6060 is the OEM version of the T-56. Same transmission. Do you have the console in the car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 On this page is a bunch of pics of where I'm up to with my install. Plus a bunch of other non related car stuff. But you're way ahead of me. I've just fitted a new floor pan. I did pick up a console a while back but I can't see how it will fit. The new shifter hole is 125mm (of the top of my head) further back from standard. I might try and modify it to suit but I also am wishing to fit a tunnel mounted E-brake. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47220-ashs-69-r-code/page-39 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sixt9stang 36 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Nice work! Love the pictures and info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted September 3, 2016 This is the problem I have with the rear transmission mount bracket. The frame is hollowed out in that particular spot, so there's not much to weld in. The hardware is also bolt thru with crush sleeves on the outside brackets, but whith the holes in the frame, there's no way to sandwitch the crush sleeve inside the frame. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 4, 2016 Nice work! Wish I had a third pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 4, 2016 You should be able to plug weld it the entire fold between left to right, front and back, between the cross member and the floor pan. You may have to massage the floor pan though and close up any separation. There will be two plug welds on either side between the horizontal mating surfaces of the cross member and the chassis rails, you can see the small step where they over lap. And also at least 4 solid plug welds in the overlap on the very underside of the chassis rail and the cross member. On the inner vertical of the chassis rail and cross member, instead of doing the internal plug welds perhaps do a weld along the area where there is no opening on the chassis rail? I think if you got all those, it'd be more than strong enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
