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miketyler

Rimblow DIY restoration?

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While I know there are a few options for outsourcing this, most are pretty expensive ranging from $250-$1000. Have any of you restored your rimblow wheel?

 

Mine had two cracks in the wheel portion that I have repaired using an industrial grade 2-part structural epoxy. Beyond this, am ready for the difficult task of trying to reproduce the woodgrain finish. I have tried a few techniques and am not having any luck reproducing a nice walnut grained finish thats close to that on the clock and instrument panels.

 

I had my local auto paint shop mix up two wood colored tones taken from my deluxe dash and the colors are a fit. They are basecoat type so final clear coating should be 100% compatible. Have any of you ventured down this path with any success?

 

I am referencing the Mustang Monthly articl but it doesnt go into any real great detail regarding the hand-graining process nor do they show any closeups of their finished product. I would like this level of detail and finish if possible.

 

If you have any expertise here can you share?

 

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_9908_classic_ford_mustang_steering_wheel_restoration/index.html

 

 

wheel_edit-458x347.jpg

Edited by miketyler
added MM link

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Put a 1 pc. brown leather wheelskins cover on it and call it a day.

 

Personally, I can no longer enjoy driving a car with a hard plastic wheel ... especially one with 16:1 Manual Steering.

 

I've been running leather wraps on mine since the mid-80's when no one was doing restorations on them.

 

Rim-blow switch works just like normal, however a new switch is best as old & wore out one can be overly sensitive to pressure.

 

Check it out in my gallery ...

http://www.1969stang.com/gallery/stangs-R-me-Deluxe-GT-Hardtop

 

Doug

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And that's one of my biggest beefs with Mustang Monthly. All they do anymore is give you a picture and a short paragraph. They don't really give you any useful "how-to's" anymore.

 

I too would be interested in an in-depth tell all on how to replicate the wood grain scheme. Bruce

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Did Mustang Monthly ever have good how to's? Unfortunatelly magazines do not have the space or know how to acurately give information to do with anything more than just the basics. I find they give just another rope to hang yourself with. Articles make you think it is easy so you give it a try, and when you are struck by murphy's law, you are left in the cold.

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Hey miketyler,

 

I did a little research and found a hand full of companies that do water based graphics. One company had a pic of a hard hat they had done in walnut wood grain and it was awesome. I'm going to try contact them and see what a steering wheel would cost.

 

Here is a link to the hard hat page. Just scroll down a few clicks. http://www.hydroimaging.com/

 

Here is a link to a company where you can buy a DIY kit for 100 bucks. https://www.mydipkit.com/

 

And another company that makes the previous companies films. http://www.liquidprintone.com/subcategory.php?id=5

 

Bruce

Edited by LindenBruce

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I'm in the same boat. I finished the wheel repairs fine. I welded plastic from another mustang wheel into the cracks on mine, figuring the same plastic might not crack in the future, being the same material. I'll practice painting the wood grain on the old wheel too.

Looks like the water transfer place isn't taking any new orders. Great looking graphics.

Nat

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I wiped all my previous work off the wheel and am starting over. What I noticed is at 10 and 2 oclock on the wheel the surface has been worn smooth so there is no grain. I could see possibly cutting in new grain to match the rest of the wheel then filling the grain with a darker color. Then possibly clear coat the wheel with a tinted clear.

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Did anyone try this? I had put this project on hold as I had plenty of other things to work on but now am ready to proceed. It seems like the hydro solutions would need to have a circular wood grain pattern that would follow the length of the wheel. I have emailed a few vendors on this for feedback.

 

On another note, the repairs I did on my wheel have not held up. I used a two part structural epoxy by 3M thats very popular in the aviation industry. In fact, the wheel is starting to show signs of new cracking. Is there a DIY way to stabilize this?

Edited by miketyler

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