Crate Motor Advice

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

You can get a lower end forged crank and slugs assembly with I-beam rods, bearings, rings, etc from CHP for 2k. You can get AFR 205 heads for 2k, and you can get a comp cams roller conversion cam for less than 1k. That leaves you a generous 1k at the machine shop to get it all balanced and together. That's 6k total.

 

Clearly if you are yanking a spent 2v motor, you will have carb, intake, oil pan, headers to buy, but you get the idea.

 

 

Thanks for responding. It seems you are missing a number of items in your bill of material though to validate your original statement:

 

I just don't like the prices of crate motors when you can build your own for somewhere around half what most places are asking.

 

Using the parts and prices you described above:

 

Crank/Rods/Pistons/Rings/Main Bearings/Rod Bearings: $2000 (legit based on my list)

Heads/Valves/Springs/Retainers/rocker Studs/guide plates: $2000 (legit based on my list)

Cam/Lifters/Timing Chain/Cam Bearings/Pushrods: $1000 (legit based on my list)

Balancing/Assembly: $1000 (machine work and assembly on mine was $1750)

 

I removed the above parts and actuals from my original partslist I already had for the remaining items to make it a similar build to the 427W in the authors original link (similar as in I removed the headers from my list since the crate motor doesn’t come with headers).

 

I’m sure you could find cheaper alternatives to the parts below. But that may mean you increase the probability of having an issue (i.e. cheaper headgaskets). Or you could find used parts (again increase probability of a worn part or damaged). Of course searching for used parts are trying to get the most cost effective part means time and some people don’t want to invest that time.

 

Item Name Manufacturer Part Number Price

1 Block Ford Stock $250

2 Cam Retainer FMS FMS-M-6269-A351 $40

3 Fuel Pump Ecentric Ford M-6287-B302 $21

4 Windage Tray Canton Racing Products 20-933 $50

5 Oil Pump Melling 10832 $54

6 Oil Pump Shaft ARP 154-7901 $19

7 Oil Pump Pickup Canton Racing Products 15-661 $40

8 Oil Pan Canton Racing Products 15-660 $240

9 Timing Cover Ford Stock $125

10 Timing Pointer Ford Stock $7

11 Harmonic Balancer ATI 917511AK $379

12 Flywheel Centerforce 700230 $348

13 Valve Covers Proform Parts 302-001 $110

14 Rockers Dove TBD $240

15 Intake Manifold Edelbrock 2981 $276

16 Carb Spacer Canton Racing Products 85-154 $20

17 Carb ProSystems $725

18 Fuel Rail Earl's Performance AT101295ERL $90

19 Fuel Pressure Adaptor Russel Performance 670353 $15

20 Fuel Pressure Gauge Russel Performance 650390 $30

21 Fuel Pump Carter Racing M60968 $145

22 Distributor MSD 8578 $246

23 Distributor Gear MSD 85834 $64

24 Spark Plug Wires Taylor 73053 $65.99

25 Spark Plug Wire Holders MFY 5075611 $37.00

26 Spark Plugs Autolite 3924 $15.92

30 Water Pump FlowKooler 1681 $86

31 Water Neck Ford Stock $0

32 Thermostat TBD TBD TBD

33 Main Studs Canton Racing Products 20-934 $125

34 Timing Chain Cam Bolt ARP 255-1001 $4

35 Cam Retainer Bolts Rollmaster w/Timing Chain $0

36 Timing Chain Cover Bolts ARP 154-1504 $23

37 Oil Pan Bolts ARP 254-1802 $24

38 Oil Pump Bolts ARP 150-6902 $7

39 Oil Pump Pickup Bolts ARP 154-7005 $7

40 Harmonic Balancer Bolt ARP 150-2503 $23

41 Head Studs ARP 254-4503 $160

42 Water Neck Bolts ARP 450-7402 $6

43 Rocker Studs ARP 100-7101 $0

44 Carb Studs ARP 400-2403 $23

45 Intake Manifold Bolts ARP 454-2001 $33

46 Valve Cover Studs Trick Flow Specialties TFS-25200801 $25

47 Water Pump Bolts TBD TBD $24

48 Water Pump Pulley Bolts N/A N/A $6

49 Fuel Pump Bolts N/A N/A $6

50 Flywheel Bolts ARP 200-2802 $14

51 Rocker Lock Nuts N/A N/A $0

52 Pilot Bushing CMS 302R $10

53 Head Dowels TFS TFS-51400420 $10

54 Oil Galley Plugs ERS EPK21B $14.99

55 Valve Cover Gaskets Fel-Pro Z1645 $34

56 Intake Manifold Gaskets COM IR149SPL094KF $25

57 Water Neck Gasket TBD TBD TBD

58 Timing Chain Cover Gasket ROL 14050 $15

59 Oil Pan Gasket Fel-Pro 1810 $17

60 Water Pump Gasket N/A N/A $0

61 Head Gasket Cometic H1503SP1056S $190

62 Carb Gasket X2 Mr Gasket 54 $10

63 Fuel Pump Gasket Carter Racing N/A $0

64 Rear Main Seal Corteco 17034 $12

65 Oil Pump Gasket N/A N/A $0

66 Oil Pump Pickup Gasket N/A N/A $0

 

 

The total for the additional items not part of your original $6k is $4830. The new total is thus $10830 compared to $12k of the crate motor the author originally mentioned in the below link. If you consider the addtional machine work/assembly costs (due to your lower estimate), shipping and tax (i live in ohio with a jegs and summit), the price comes out to be about the same. I always find it interesting to see people claim that a 500 hp motor can be built for $5-6k. These little parts add up. I too severly understimated the costs years ago when i made the estimates on the back of a napkin.

 

427W stroker

 

Now maybe I’m misunderstanding what you mean that it costs $6k to build your own engine. If you are saying that you already have all the other parts then that doesn’t seem fair to compare those numbers to the crate cost. Before heading to the machine shop I already had 90% of the parts. So I guess at that point I could have said I could build my own engine (ignoring labor) for about $2k which was a savings of $10k over the crate motor. That to me only means that a crate engine doesn’t make sense if you already have a lot of the parts (which I mentioned previously). That doesn’t really mean it only costs $2k to build a motor.

 

To add to my previous post, i think it's crazy for a rookie to build one of these 400 to 600 hp strokers on their own due to the cost for a competent shop to do those tasks. I had already indicated what those additional costs are and now maybe you can see how they compare to the total costs. If you know all the in's and out's of building a motor properly then that's a different story. If you want to do a rebuild on a stocker than i say go for it. But too many times a rookie doesn't think about needing to have those nice new Eagle rods checked to make sure they are round (then months later discover the bearings are getting chewed up) or even calculating the compression ratio for the needs of the cam or the fuel type desired.

 

in my opinion, the cheap crate engines have to be taking short cuts somewhere (cheaper parts/less machine work) or maybe they have an hourly rate that is ridiculously low (can't save that much because labor isn't the dominate factor).

 

to summarize a crate engine can be a good fit for certain people.

[BigDuke6 17]

 

The total for the additional items not part of your original $6k is $4830. The new total is thus $10830 compared to $12k of the crate motor the author originally mentioned in the below link. I.................. I always find it interesting to see people claim that a 500 hp motor can be built for $5-6k. These little parts add up. I too severly understimated the costs years ago when i made the estimates on the back of a napkin.

 

 

exactly my situation. I budgeted x and spent 2*X . Then did it all over again when I wrecked my car in an accident. Planned on Y and spent 5*Y. I am into my car for over 6 figures.

 

 

 

in my opinion, the cheap crate engines have to be taking short cuts somewhere (cheaper parts/less machine work) or maybe they have an hourly rate that is ridiculously low (can't save that much because labor isn't the dominate factor).

 

I don't see how they can do it either. I priced my build and it came way more than the cheap places.

 

I am hoping Max gives some thought to my suggestion to keep his 393W and port his heads for a grand and call it day. Otherwise, it is a descent into madness and extreme expenditures.

[DRASTiK 22]

I suppose the true definition of 'engine' may differ from one person to another. Some view a built engine as a shortblock, others view it as a long block with heads and maybe an intake. Others feel that a complete carb to pan setup with bolt on accessories qualifies as an 'engine'. Just depends.

[sportsroof69 13]

When I decided to do my 408, everything on my current shortblock was pretty well used up. The block was .060, so it was done, the timing chain cover was busted. I wasn't going to use the stock oil pan, and everything else was pretty well worn, so I was starting over. In fact, the only things I was going to reuse were the rockers, and heads.

 

Since I needed pretty much everything, I used Fordstrokers, and just bought a shortblock, with the complete bottom end package that includes timing cover, oil pan, oil pump, and pickup, camshaft, timing chain, and billet Pumpshaft, and an SFI balancer.

 

So basically when my shortblock showed up, I had to bolt the heads, and intake on, get my pushrods, and put the front accessories on, and install the flywheel and it was ready. I gave $4150 for it.

 

That price included some other stuff too, like my PAC valve springs, and Comp lifters. I really don't think I could have built the shortblock myself for the same price, with all the extra parts included.

 

Here's what my receipt has.

 

408W complete shortblock

Roller 351 machined block

scat cast steel 4.00 crankshaft

Scat forged steel I beam connecting rods 6.200

Probe SRS 2618 forged pistons (22 dish) 4.030

Perfect Circle Moly file fit rings

Clevite 77 main bearings

Clevite 77 rod bearings

Clevite 77 cam bearings

Screw in galley plugs

ARP main studs

Freeze plugs

Bullet Custom hyd roller camshaft

SA gear billet timing chain w/Torrington bearing

Melling oil pump M83

Morose oil pickup

ARP billet Pumpshaft

Fel pro 1 piece pan gasket

Morose 7qt oil pan

Mr gasket oil pan bolts

Timing chain cover

Fel pro timing chain cover gasket set

Comp cams hyd roller lifter

TEA PAC valve spring kit

Power bond SFI 28oz balancer

 

$4151.00

 

 

Notice that that includes my custom cam from Bullet, which I worked with Bullet directly on concerning my heads, intake, and car, even though fordstrokers got it for me at a discounted price. It also has good valve springs too. By the time you factor in quality machine work, balancing, and assembly, I would have had a hard time building that myself. It showed up fully assembled, even with the camshaft installed and degreed.

 

Aside from that, I got a complete build sheet, showing all the bearing clearances, ring gaps, dck heights, cylinder bores, end play, ect.... And I got the bobweight sheet. Now that I have the engine torn apart, we've checked all the tolerances, and the build sheet seems to be dead on. No cut corners, and everything looks top notch.

 

 

 

It seems like a lot of people build these strokers with some expense that isn't necessary. Theses 500-600 hp strokers do not need a forged crank, and H beam rods. Not only that, but H beams are heavy, and will actually hurt the engines accelleration, aside from being expensive and not necessary.

Edited March 30, 2012 by sportsroof69

[69gmachine 15]

I've got about $12K in my engine starting with a used core, so the crate motors look like a bargain to me. There weren't hardly any crate engines available whe I started collecting parts.

 

I couldn't plunk down that much money at one time anyway, so I bought a forged crank and waited until I recovered. Then I bought forged pistons and waited some more. That went on until I got all the parts together to take to a machine shop. I've rebuilt a handful of small blocks, but nothing with this much power and there was no way I was going to risk wiping out all my money by trying to put it togther myself.

 

By the time the engine was done there were several vendors selling crate motors. I did get a lot of custom things done that you wouldn't get in a crate motor like indexed and sleeved lifter bushings, splayed 4 bolt mains on 2, 3 an 4 and (unnecessarily heavy) Carillo H beam rods. I also had the block converted to a 1 piece rear main seal, but wouldn't recommend it to anyone. It's no better than a 2 piece put together right so that was a big waste of money.

 

In the end I'm happy with what I have. I've never had anything with this much power. Until it can fire up, its a paper weight. An engine has to make the wheels turn.

Edited March 30, 2012 by 69gmachine
just for laughs

[sportsroof69 13]

I think the one piece rear main is a great thing to do, because if it does leak, you can change it without pulling the engine.

[Powershift 19]

My Mach's build is being funded by the sale of my 600+hp Whipple supercharged 2003 Cobra. So, I knew loosing that car meant the Mach had to make a ton of power, and be very reliable, to replace the hole left in my heart from selling my amazing Cobra. After looking at a TON of crate motors out there, I chose Keith Craft Racing due to their great reputation, and the list of top quality parts used in their engines.

 

Here is the basic list of my motor:

 

408 Street/Performance Crate

Horsepower: 550 hp

Torque: 550 ft/lbs

Compression: 10:1

 

Block: Fully Machined and Prepped Production 351W Block

Crankshaft: Eagle 4340 Steel

Stroke: 4.000" or 4.100"

Connecting Rods: Eagle H-Beam 6.200"

Pistons: Mahle Forged

Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller

Cam: Comp Cams Custom Hydraulic Roller (242/245, 110 lobe sep, .580 lift)

Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hydraulic Roller

Cylinder Heads: AFR 205

Valves: SI 2.08/1.6

Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller

Intake: Edelbrock Air-Gap, Port Matched

Waterpump: Edelbrock Aluminum

Carburetor: Quick Fuel 780cfm

Valve Covers: FRPP Boss flat top

Wire Looms: Smoothie

Oil Pump: Melling High Volume

Oil Pan: Moroso Front Sump, powder coated black

Balancer: Pioneer SFI

Ignition: MSD Distributor w/Keith Craft Logo Moroso Plug Wires

Gaskets: Felpro

Fasteners: ARP

Holley Fuel Pump

Russell Fuel Log (Black)

Fuel Lines and Fittings (Black)

Oil: 1 Case Joe Gibbs Hot Rod

 

Total: Just under $10,500 (plus shipping)

 

 

I would be HARD pressed to build that motor myself, using a local machine shop's service, sourcing everything to include the block, for that amount. NOT to mention, it will be dyno run, tested, and dialed in.

[Max Power 74]

 

 

 

to summarize a crate engine can be a good fit for certain people.

 

 

I never said otherwise.

 

 

Looking at the responses here, it looks like a crate engine is the way to go.

[69gmachine 15]

I never said otherwise.

 

 

Looking at the responses here, it looks like a crate engine is the way to go.

 

Most of us don't have the necessary specialized tools and skills to put together a reliable 500+ HP engine at all, much less cheaper than a shop that has everything handy. Most of those who do, value their time too much for it to be cost effective. I applaud your ability to do it yourself. Your skill set and circumstances seem to be the exception. All of us have different levels of what we feel comfortable doing ourselves.

[Jimjific 23]

Here's my two cents. I'm more in line with Max Power. I figure if I do the work, I take those savings and buy the cool tools to help me do it. That, way, I have the tools for future use. I do this with house projects too. I built me deck so I went out and bought a nice 12" compound miter saw with stand. Now I have that for all the things that I do. I am currently looking at making my own jointed strut rods and roller suspension. Yes, I could just buy them, But I can make the struts cheaper with my lathe and mill over the $400+ TCP wants. I will have to make some of the tooling like a spherical tool post but then I will have this unique fixture for the lathe. Not to mention learning a new skill. Yes, this takes time and I might not finish for some time, but I get there eventually and like Max said, it doesn't feel like work when you enjoy doing it.

 

In the end we are all different but I imagine we would all agree we dig the very cool 69 Stang.

 

Jim

[Max Power 74]

Looking back at Buckeye Demon's list, if you are at the point where you need to buy cam retainers and harmonic balance bolts, yeah, there is a pretty good chance that a crate motor is what you need. It's a wash financially, and you get turn key with a warranty. I have never been at that point, so I guess I have a different perspective. My machine shop costs are also less than half of his, so I might be benefiting from regional pricing as well.

 

In a scenario where you have a car with nothing in the bay, there is a strong case for crates. If you have something to work with already, it depends on your build. In my 50 years on this planet, I have never bought a cam retainer...LOL! I guess I am lucky.

 

In regards to the advice on keeping the 393, I am considering it. Rather than port the RPM heads though, I think I will replace then with 205s with a 5cc bigger chamber to drop compression a little though. I may have a pipeline to get a magazine build on this, so if I can get some donations from the MFGs for the project, that will shape what I do.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

My machine shop costs are also less than half of his, so I might be benefiting from regional pricing as well.

 

 

i included the extra assembly costs from the machine shop (see my first post) because you stated $1k that included the costs of putting it together.

 

Pure machine work that i don't have the tooling for was around $1k.

 

Sorry if i misunderstood what you were saying.

 

That leaves you a generous 1k at the machine shop to get it all balanced and together.

[BigDuke6 17]

Rather than port the RPM heads though, I think I will replace then with 205s with a 5cc bigger chamber to drop compression a little though. I may have a pipeline to get a magazine build on this, so if I can get some donations from the MFGs for the project, that will shape what I do.

 

if the mags don't cover the new heads, I note that fox lake can rework your RPMs to outflow AFR 205s on the intake side and only be slightly outflowed on the exhaust side. All that plus new valves, springs, and resized combustion chambers for about $1k, compared to $1900 for the AFRs. That is $900 dollary-doos for more or less the same thing.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Looking back at Buckeye Demon's list, if you are at the point where you need to buy cam retainers and harmonic balance bolts, yeah, there is a pretty good chance that a crate motor is what you need.

 

In my 50 years on this planet, I have never bought a cam retainer...LOL! I guess I am lucky.

 

 

so a new cam retainer and harmonic balancer bolt represent a reduction of $63 of the total $4830 in additional parts costs i had listed.

 

what other used original parts or rusty fasteners would you save from an original motor to build a stroker?

 

how about the following?

block 250

retainer 40

ecentric 21

timing cover 125

timing pointer 7

harmonic balancer bolt 23

water neck bolts 6

fuel pump bolts 6

 

the above totals to a savings of $478. That represents 4% of a $11000 build.

[Dave_Mustang_50 2]

I have just over 2k miles on my Ford Racing 427 and love it. I paid 8900 from Jegs. I had no problems like several people said I would with anything including the high port heads and headers. I would have spent around 6k just stroking my 351c to 393 or 408 and would then wonder how much my block was gonna take. Also, I now have a serpentine belt setup with an a/c setup from a fox body stang.

[Max Power 74]

so a new cam retainer and harmonic balancer bolt represent a reduction of $63 of the total $4830 in additional parts costs i had listed.

 

what other used original parts or rusty fasteners would you save from an original motor to build a stroker?

 

how about the following?

block 250

retainer 40

ecentric 21

timing cover 125

timing pointer 7

harmonic balancer bolt 23

water neck bolts 6

fuel pump bolts 6

 

the above totals to a savings of $478. That represents 4% of a $11000 build.

 

OK, since you seem really really really focused in this, let me go down the list for you on things I didn't buy:

 

Item Name Manufacturer Part Number Price

1 Block Ford Stock $250

2 Cam Retainer FMS FMS-M-6269-A351 $40

3 Fuel Pump Ecentric Ford M-6287-B302 $21

4 Windage Tray Canton Racing Products 20-933 $50

5 Oil Pump Melling 10832 $54

6 Oil Pump Shaft ARP 154-7901 $19

7 Oil Pump Pickup Canton Racing Products 15-661 $40

8 Oil Pan Canton Racing Products 15-660 $240

9 Timing Cover Ford Stock $125

10 Timing Pointer Ford Stock $7

11 Harmonic Balancer ATI 917511AK $379

12 Flywheel Centerforce 700230 $348

13 Valve Covers Proform Parts 302-001 $110

14 Rockers Dove TBD $240

15 Intake Manifold Edelbrock 2981 $276

16 Carb Spacer Canton Racing Products 85-154 $20

17 Carb ProSystems $725

18 Fuel Rail Earl's Performance AT101295ERL $90

19 Fuel Pressure Adaptor Russel Performance 670353 $15

20 Fuel Pressure Gauge Russel Performance 650390 $30

21 Fuel Pump Carter Racing M60968 $145

22 Distributor MSD 8578 $246

23 Distributor Gear MSD 85834 $64

24 Spark Plug Wires Taylor 73053 $65.99

25 Spark Plug Wire Holders MFY 5075611 $37.00

26 Spark Plugs Autolite 3924 $15.92

30 Water Pump FlowKooler 1681 $86

31 Water Neck Ford Stock $0

32 Thermostat TBD TBD TBD

33 Main Studs Canton Racing Products 20-934 $125

34 Timing Chain Cam Bolt ARP 255-1001 $4

35 Cam Retainer Bolts Rollmaster w/Timing Chain $0

36 Timing Chain Cover Bolts ARP 154-1504 $23

37 Oil Pan Bolts ARP 254-1802 $24

38 Oil Pump Bolts ARP 150-6902 $7

39 Oil Pump Pickup Bolts ARP 154-7005 $7

40 Harmonic Balancer Bolt ARP 150-2503 $23

41 Head Studs ARP 254-4503 $160

42 Water Neck Bolts ARP 450-7402 $6

43 Rocker Studs ARP 100-7101 $0

44 Carb Studs ARP 400-2403 $23

45 Intake Manifold Bolts ARP 454-2001 $33

46 Valve Cover Studs Trick Flow Specialties TFS-25200801 $25

47 Water Pump Bolts TBD TBD $24

48 Water Pump Pulley Bolts N/A N/A $6

49 Fuel Pump Bolts N/A N/A $6

50 Flywheel Bolts ARP 200-2802 $14

51 Rocker Lock Nuts N/A N/A $0

52 Pilot Bushing CMS 302R $10

53 Head Dowels TFS TFS-51400420 $10

54 Oil Galley Plugs ERS EPK21B $14.99

55 Valve Cover Gaskets Fel-Pro Z1645 $34

56 Intake Manifold Gaskets COM IR149SPL094KF $25

57 Water Neck Gasket TBD TBD TBD

58 Timing Chain Cover Gasket ROL 14050 $15

59 Oil Pan Gasket Fel-Pro 1810 $17

60 Water Pump Gasket N/A N/A $0

61 Head Gasket Cometic H1503SP1056S $190

62 Carb Gasket X2 Mr Gasket 54 $10

63 Fuel Pump Gasket Carter Racing N/A $0

64 Rear Main Seal Corteco 17034 $12

65 Oil Pump Gasket N/A N/A $0

66 Oil Pump Pickup Gasket N/A N/A $0

 

I took a tired old 351 with little oil pressure and built a CHP 393 stroker at over 400hp for about 4k last time. There wasn't a single crate on the market for less than 6 at the time.

 

I am sorry, I know how much I spent, I am not gonna go out to the shop and dig up receipts to prove a point.

 

At this point, seems it seems we are digging at minutia, I am out of this conversation.

 

Cheers!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

OK, since you seem really really really focused in this, let me go down the list for you on things I didn't buy:

 

Item Name Manufacturer Part Number Price

.

.

.

 

I took a tired old 351 with little oil pressure and built a CHP 393 stroker at over 400hp for about 4k last time. There wasn't a single crate on the market for less than 6 at the time.

 

I am sorry, I know how much I spent, I am not gonna go out to the shop and dig up receipts to prove a point.

 

At this point, seems it seems we are digging at minutia, I am out of this conversation.

 

Cheers!

 

doesn't seem like minutia to me but i can understand why you are out of the conversation.

 

i'm not at all interested how you took a tired 351w and built a 400hp motor.

 

i was just trying to understand your statements of how you can build a motor for $6k and have the same specs as the engine in the original link (538hp/427W for $12k). I'm concerned people might get in over their heads financially (or technically) if they haven't built a motor like this before.

 

but perhaps it's as simple as reusing parts like the stock main bolts to hold that long stroke crank in the block at 6500 rpm or even the factory balancer or cast flywheel...

 

have a great day!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I used Fordstrokers, and just bought a shortblock, with the complete bottom end package that includes timing cover, oil pan, oil pump, and pickup, camshaft, timing chain, and billet Pumpshaft, and an SFI balancer.

 

I gave $4150 for it.

 

That price included some other stuff too, like my PAC valve springs, and Comp lifters. I really don't think I could have built the shortblock myself for the same price, with all the extra parts included.

 

Here's what my receipt has.

 

408W complete shortblock

Roller 351 machined block

scat cast steel 4.00 crankshaft

Scat forged steel I beam connecting rods 6.200

Probe SRS 2618 forged pistons (22 dish) 4.030

Perfect Circle Moly file fit rings

Clevite 77 main bearings

Clevite 77 rod bearings

Clevite 77 cam bearings

Screw in galley plugs

ARP main studs

Freeze plugs

Bullet Custom hyd roller camshaft

SA gear billet timing chain w/Torrington bearing

Melling oil pump M83

Morose oil pickup

ARP billet Pumpshaft

Fel pro 1 piece pan gasket

Morose 7qt oil pan

Mr gasket oil pan bolts

Timing chain cover

Fel pro timing chain cover gasket set

Comp cams hyd roller lifter

TEA PAC valve spring kit

Power bond SFI 28oz balancer

 

$4151.00

 

for a point of reference, i included only the parts in my list to make it functionally equivalent to all the included parts in your shortblock (i also included springs/lifters, all associated machining/assembly costs for the shortblock and any small parts missing from your list) and it totalled $5500.

 

Our parts are pretty similar (mine went neutral balanced with the added security of a forged crank and h-beams, so that probably accounts for about $600-$700). I also assumed $0 for the block and timing cover since i reused my originals and $0 for shipping/tax.