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Angel

For those of you with Modular engines

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I know there are a few guys on here who have stuck the newer modular engines into our cars. If you dont mind me asking, how much was invested in the installation? Would you do it again? I always loved the thought of a mod motor in the car but knew it would be real expensive to buy all the necessary components for the set up, not including installation of the m2 front suspension.

 

The reason I ask is because I just picked up an engine, transmission, computer and harness from a 2001 cobra for a good price. Now I am wondering if I should stick it in the 69 or if I want to sell it. I know the mustang 2 set up is around $2-2.5k. The price to have it installed once turned me away, but now I got a buddy who installed it on a falcon and is willing to help since he knows how to weld. I know I would have to install a fuel return system, maybe modify the trans tunnel, and then of course there's all the wiring that needs to be done.

 

I was going to build a 408w but because I got this set up for so cheap, and since my buddy was going to weld up a cracked shock tower anyway, I am now forced to consider the swap. I had already planned to spend about $7k on the 408 stroker, if its possible to pull this off with less than that then its a no brainer for me.

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I know there are a few guys on here who have stuck the newer modular engines into our cars. If you dont mind me asking, how much was invested in the installation? Would you do it again? I always loved the thought of a mod motor in the car but knew it would be real expensive to buy all the necessary components for the set up, not including installation of the m2 front suspension.

 

The reason I ask is because I just picked up an engine, transmission, computer and harness from a 2001 cobra for a good price. Now I am wondering if I should stick it in the 69 or if I want to sell it. I know the mustang 2 set up is around $2-2.5k. The price to have it installed once turned me away, but now I got a buddy who installed it on a falcon and is willing to help since he knows how to weld. I know I would have to install a fuel return system, maybe modify the trans tunnel, and then of course there's all the wiring that needs to be done.

 

I was going to build a 408w but because I got this set up for so cheap, and since my buddy was going to weld up a cracked shock tower anyway, I am now forced to consider the swap. I had already planned to spend about $7k on the 408 stroker, if its possible to pull this off with less than that then its a no brainer for me.

 

I say go for it! I'll be jealous if you do. Did you see my post in tech about the boss 429 shock towers? They shaved and recessed them to fit the boss 429 motors. I'm not sure what's involved to do that, but may be a cheaper way of fitting a mod motor without going with a Mustang II suspension (which i personally don't like).

 

Just my 2 cents.

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How many miles are on that '01 motor? The rotating assembly isn't the best in that year DOHC. They were prone to rod knocks if not properly maintained. The '03/'04 Cobra motors were really the rock stars of the 4V Ford Mod motors, but they don't come cheap.

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It's got just over 100k miles on it. It sounded really smooth on the car. I got the complete engine(with accessories), t3650 trans, harness, computer, and full exhaust for $1400. I also got the full interior, f/r brakes, the wheels, spare tire, and a bunch of other stuff for an additional $470. He was selling things for so cheap since he didn't know the value of stuff. He's a chevy guy and "won" the car in a dice game. I have some speculations about that story but that's irrelevant now.

 

Notching the towers would be cool since it would allow me to run stock suspension. However, I won't be able to use my unisteer rack. I don't mind doing the extra work to run this set up, but if this particular engine is going to give me problems down the road, then I may be better off just selling everything. Rod knock seems to be a common problem for the mod motors. I just didn't know it was a common problem for this particular year engine. I have to do a lot of research before committing to this set up.

Edited by Angel

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I wonder how that kit works with the steering shaft from the rack. Would it clear the mod motor headers, or would you need custom headers made?

 

I don't see a strut tower notch kit available on that site though.

 

Looks promising though. It's almost $1500-2k just for a R&P setup, so the whole setup for $2500 sounds awesome!

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I haven't seen anyone using a mod motor AND headers. Usually I see people use the stock manifolds. I can only assume this is because there is no room for long tubes after the engine is cramped into the body.

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I haven't seen anyone using a mod motor AND headers. Usually I see people use the stock manifolds. I can only assume this is because there is no room for long tubes after the engine is cramped into the body.

 

ah, i see. I thought the mod motors came with a tubular type header stock for some reason.

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if you sell it let me know.... i have a 96GT convert with a blown head gasket.. wouldn't mind sticking a cobra motor in it ... i loved my cobra until someone totaled it for me... keep me in mind. id have to change it over to auto etc but its doable:crying:

 

i originally purchased a 98 cobra motor/trans setup for my 69 but sold it because i didnt want to cut the shock towers... but that was just me.. and that was in 2000.

 

It's got just over 100k miles on it. It sounded really smooth on the car. I got the complete engine(with accessories), t3650 trans, harness, computer, and full exhaust for $1400. I also got the full interior, f/r brakes, the wheels, spare tire, and a bunch of other stuff for an additional $470. He was selling things for so cheap since he didn't know the value of stuff. He's a chevy guy and "won" the car in a dice game. I have some speculations about that story but that's irrelevant now.

 

Notching the towers would be cool since it would allow me to run stock suspension. However, I won't be able to use my unisteer rack. I don't mind doing the extra work to run this set up, but if this particular engine is going to give me problems down the road, then I may be better off just selling everything. Rod knock seems to be a common problem for the mod motors. I just didn't know it was a common problem for this particular year engine. I have to do a lot of research before committing to this set up.

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I have just started my Modular setup. The Mustang II I paid $1800 for and I called around some places to see what it would cost to have installed when I wasnt feeling up to the task and they all said around $800. I ended up doing it myself which wasnt as hard I as originally thought it was. I got some prices on the motor and trans it was 7k for the 4.6 DOHC supercharged with T56 trans. The computer and harness is another $800 I got the 4.6 motor mounts from Rod and Customs. I would figure for everything needed to do the swap it would be around $12000

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I am putting a 96 Lincoln Mark 8, 4.6 DOHC (22K for $600) in a 70 Fastback. T45 5 speed ($80). I bought a TCI IFS kit with 4.6 mounts and some upgrades for 3K. I want a modern drivetrain with the classic styling. I do all my own work. I built a 67 coupe with a 530hp 393 stroker and hated it. I guess I am getting older and hp is not as important to me as street manners and drivability. Everyone that I have talked to who has done the swap said they would do it again.

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How many miles are on that '01 motor? The rotating assembly isn't the best in that year DOHC. They were prone to rod knocks if not properly maintained. The '03/'04 Cobra motors were really the rock stars of the 4V Ford Mod motors, but they don't come cheap.

 

The Terminators came with 4340 Forged cranks with center counter balance weights, Manley H beam rods, and Forged dished pistons :)

Even if you could find a used Terminator Cobra crank like i did and send to a machine shop to have it turned down a smigin it would still be pretty cheap.

 

Did anybody see the Mustang Monthy mag with the blue 69 Coyote FB on the cover? They said they used Dynacorn Notched shock towers for the swap, but i think they had to use a coilover suspension setup on the front. But i can only find those notched towers for 67s and 68s!

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I haven't seen anyone using a mod motor AND headers. Usually I see people use the stock manifolds. I can only assume this is because there is no room for long tubes after the engine is cramped into the body.

 

What you'll see alot of guys do is run the factory Cobra Terminator manifolds, they were a high(er) flowing manifold than the regular 32V ones you'd find on a Mach 1, Maurader or 96-01 Cobra

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You know Angel, thanks a lot for posting this thread, all I can think about now is doing a Coyote swap in my Stang! I'm thinking, I can totally pull it off before June to drive down to Key West! Haha! lol

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Haha! I know. It's very tempting. I would love a new coyote in the 69. I've been thinking a lot about this swap and I'm still on the fence about it. The only thing holding me back is lack of time. I've got the money to go either way right now. It's just that to do this swap would probably add another year, minimum, to complete. I know in the long run it might be worth it but at the same time, I miss my car. It's been in my back yard for two years now and I really want to get it back on the road. The mod motor would add fuel injection and a big wow factor to the car. However, the 408 would add a lot more power and the satisfaction of knowing I assembled the engine. I've also been thinking about selling the mod motor and trans since after I get the 69 back on the road, I have to start working on my dads 65. The money I make off the mod motor would help finance the next project. And I do like the simplicity of our original engines. I think it's going to come down to whether or not my friend has time to install the m2 suspension. Otherwise, it's not worth it for me at this time.

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So my friend said he'll help me install and weld the suspension. So I'm back in the game. I found a place that sells the harness and tweaks the computer for $800. Not sure if that's a good price or not. Now I'm looking at mustang 2 kits. They all look very similar. Is there any you guys would recommend? Helix? Rod & custom? Heidts?

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I have the factory harness from the cobra as well and thought about using it. A member that has done it said after all was done, he should've just replaced the harness with one from the detail zone. Apparently its a pain to adapt. If I can't sell the stock harness for a decent amount, I might just try to adapt it myself. Worst case, I buy the detail zone kit anyway. What do you plan to do about the computer?

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So after months of thinking this over, I have decided to use the cobra engine and transmission. The deciding factor was cost and I was actually surprised that it would be cheaper to swap this engine into the car than to build a 408 stroker out of my old engine. After selling all the other parts that I got from that 2001 cobra, I have $800 invested in the engine, trans, computer, and harness. Im probably going to use the Rod & custom kit because it comes complete with everything needed at a good price. Plus I like the service I've received so far and the fact that they always answer the phone when I call. The kit is about $2400 with coil over shocks and minus the brakes, which I will be using the mustang steve brackets to fit the 13" cobra brakes to the M2 drop spindle. The harness and computer re-flash will be $860 from the detail zone.

 

The 408 engine I was planning to build was going to be about $5500 in parts and machine work. Not including the intake and carb, which I was going to re-use from the old engine. The short block alone was going to be around $2500. I also have the Unisteer power rack & pinion which adds another $1400 to this set up. Going this route would have cost me about $6600 to $7200. This is not considering the fact that I would eventually have to replace or upgrade my AOD trans to handle the power from the torque monster I was going to build. That would have been another $1500-2200.

 

The cobra swap is going to cost me around $5k. Even less if I decide to sell the tr-3650 and stay auto. I already had a guy offer me $500 for the 3650. Plus I can sell some of my old suspension and engine parts. Even if I add another $1k in miscellaneous parts to this swap, its still cheaper than the stroker route. In addition, I wont have to worry about breaking my axles and I now have the option to autocross the car a bit. Since the AOD would've been a joke on the road course.

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