Thoughts on used PWR Brake Booster & Master Cyl

[prayers1 153]

My car has 4 wheel drum brakes, No Power Booster. One of the Po's had already replaced the single Master cylinder with a Dual set up. I don't know if they exchanged the Portportional Valve.

 

This Summer I plan to put front disc on. Presently I don't know if my Dual Master Cyl. would be compatiable or not w/ the new Disc set up.

 

I have an opportunity, to purchase cheap, a used Power Booster & Master Cylinder. Both items are functional, they are replacing them for cosmetic reasons.

 

Would that set up be OK to use or not ?

[LindenBruce 27]

Is your car a 69? If so it came with a dual bowl master cylinder to begin with. If you convert to power make sure you get the rod that attaches to your pedal assembly as well. I'm not sure if your proportioning valve is the same or not. Maybe someone else will know. Bruce

[prayers1 153]

Yes, it is a 1969. I was under the opinion that all manual drum brakes had a single bowl MC.

 

My point here is, does it make sense to buy a usable OEM part. If you should ask why not new. I'm already sinking in thousands of dollars on sheetmetal, labor and paint.

 

If most choose not to do it, then I'd have to wait to do that particular project at a later time. Just wanted a consensus to lead me in the right direction instead of putting good money into bad.

Edited March 1, 2012 by prayers1

[Lemon Owner 11]

Mine is a poverty pack and it came with the dual bowl master with drums all round. If you do upgrade be sure to change your brake pedal and master cylinder to a disc brake one. http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html

 

I also used the below distribution block. One thing I had to do was remove the bracket from the new block and replace it with the original bracket I removed from the drum brake block. This allowed me to mount it in its original location with all the original hose conectors. It also meant I did not have to install a separate proportional valve. Works a treat and looks totally factory which keeps the DMV happy.

[stangnet33 88]

Nothing wrong with using a previously used part as long it is year correct and rebuild-able. I would reseal the master cylinder anyways, the kits are cheap. And as for single or dual reservoir at the start of '67 everything went to dual reservoir even for drums all around.

[1969mustang 10]

I just replaced my power brake booster and master cylinder with re-manufactured from Autozone to hopefully save a few headaches down the road. They both looked good when I got them and I painted them black to match everything else in my engine bay. A-1 Cardone was the name brand and I think the whole setup cost me like $111 and there was like a $58 core charge. I thought that was a good deal. I don't know how much the one your looking at is going to cost you but a re-manufactured one may be worth looking into. I thought $111 for the whole setup was a good deal even though its not brand new I hope it works like new.

 

Drew

[prayers1 153]

I never thought to look into a remanufactured one, $111 doesn't seem so bad. The used one would of cost me $50. I so use to looking at the After Market Catalogs such as CJPony & NPD, that I thought $50 was a good deal on a good working part. Enough said, better to spend money on saftey then anything else.

 

Thanks for the wake up call!

[buening 63]

Just remember the 1969 has a unique booster compared to a 1970 one. The 69 booster rod where the pedal pin mounts is turned down (pin hole is about 1/2" or so below centerline of rod shaft) whereas the 70's pin hole is centered on the shaft.

[LindenBruce 27]

Yes, it is a 1969. I was under the opinion that all manual drum brakes had a single bowl MC.

My point here is, does it make sense to buy a usable OEM part. If you should ask why not new. I'm already sinking in thousands of dollars on sheetmetal, labor and paint.

 

If most choose not to do it, then I'd have to wait to do that particular project at a later time. Just wanted a consensus to lead me in the right direction instead of putting good money into bad.

 

When it comes to safety systems like brakes, I personally prefer new parts over used. It's just not worth getting into an accident and someone getting hurt or worse.

 

NOW, having said that, I have no problem with rebuilding a brake part IF i am intimately familiar with its history. An example would be rebuilding a brake master cylinder if its from a car I drive on a regular basis. Or even if I removed the part from a you pull it yourself yard.

 

Just my two cents. Bruce

[gsxrken 21]

Also I doubt a reman will have spacer between the booster and the firewall that these require. Just heads up

[cmz69 10]

Also I doubt a reman will have spacer between the booster and the firewall that these require. Just heads up

 

I got reman from o'reilly's and it works perfectly fine. If I can recall there was no space on original nor reman, only rubber from internal diaphragm that acts like washer. Only spacer is actually a vent to allow air into the pb on the + side in order to allow the diaphragm to work with vacuum. This sits between pb and master.

 

However, my 69 has drum rear and disc front, could be slightly different setup with drum all way around.

[1969mustang 10]

If I am not mistaken when I was ordering the booster at my local Autozone they asked me if I needed one with the spacer or without and since I had the spacer that was on mine I just took it off to use on the reman that I was getting. You may be able to buy it with that spacer that I am pretty sure is necessary to mount it to the fire wall. Let me tell you it is a pain in the butt to get to the bolts with the studs on the booster that seem 3 or 4 inches long up under that firewall with the whole dash still in the car.

Goodluck,

Drew

[gsxrken 21]

I got reman from o'reilly's and it works perfectly fine. If I can recall there was no space on original nor reman, only rubber from internal diaphragm that acts like washer. Only spacer is actually a vent to allow air into the pb on the + side in order to allow the diaphragm to work with vacuum. This sits between pb and master.

 

However, my 69 has drum rear and disc front, could be slightly different setup with drum all way around.

 

Here's the spacer I'm talking about. It's the black piece tack welded onto the booster can itself.

[prayers1 153]

Are you saying that all 1969 Pwr Brake Boosters need the spacer.

 

If I can recall, it looks like your push rod is different than mine. So, as others said previously, I would need a different one as well?

 

Also from scanning this site it also appears that I need a different brake pedal?

 

I have a 4 speed Top Loader. Is there a vacuum hose involved witht his setup?

Edited March 3, 2012 by prayers1

[cmz69 10]

after looking in my manual, it appears there are multiple set-ups. for combo disc/drum, all around drum, and of course power vs standard. believe it also varied with engine size. mine (blu) is for a 69 fb 302, c4 trans, and 9" rear with stock disc front and drum rear.

 

gsxrken, your doesn't quite seem as big of a pb, maybe why the spacer is there? mine also has the clamp that connects front and rear of pb with the diaphragm clamped between.

[gsxrken 21]

after looking in my manual, it appears there are multiple set-ups. for combo disc/drum, all around drum, and of course power vs standard. believe it also varied with engine size. mine (blu) is for a 69 fb 302, c4 trans, and 9" rear with stock disc front and drum rear.

 

gsxrken, your doesn't quite seem as big of a pb, maybe why the spacer is there? mine also has the clamp that connects front and rear of pb with the diaphragm clamped between.

 

Good leg work there. I do know there was a Midland and a Bendix booster and I don't know the difference. My one is a rebuilt one but is exactly like my original. NJ built M-code front disc.

 

I know over the years I have heard of guys who sent their booster core in and got a booster back with no spacer and they were urgently looking for a spacer. I had to separate my spacer before I returned the core and attached it to the new one, so I wasn't the guy running around looking for a spacer. :)

 

Mine's available cheap, BTW. I eventually went Hydratech's hydroboost. But I had to reuse my power pedal, so you would need to source that.

[LindenBruce 27]

The booster CMZ69 has a pic of is a Midland. The booster GSXRKEN has a picture of is a Bendix. My late 69 428 San Jose car came with a Bendix booster with the spacer. Bruce

[Lemon Owner 11]

Factory disc in my experience all have the spacer. To change from drum to disc you will also need to enlarge the hole in the firewall as per the template in the link I provided. It is easy and well worth doing.

[prayers1 153]

Lemon Owner- Thanks for the heads up, about enlarging the hole. I had no ideal!

Can you imagine trying to place the Booster and scratching your head, why doesn't it fit?

I've read where you can install front disc and still use the manual master.

What are people's thoughts on that?

[cmz69 10]

The only other thing I can think of is what plant the car originates from determines the different pb. I drove my car from the shop minus pb, major leak they bypassed the vacuum line, and it was like stoping with your foot against the tire. If its anything like that, wouldn't recommend it.

[buening 63]

I've read where you can install front disc and still use the manual master.

What are people's thoughts on that?

 

As long as the manual M/C was made for front disc/rear drum then it will work. An easy way to tell is the disc/drum master will have different size bowls. The front bowl IIRC is larger than the rear. On a drum, both bowls are the same size.

 

All Bendix boosters need the spacer. I'm not familiar with the Midland and its need for a spacer, as they quite using those I believe midway through 1969. I do know both were used in 1969 cars. Again, note the pushrod's shape as shown in gsxrken's picture. That is for a 69. If the pushrod does not curve down, its for a 70 car.

[buening 63]

CMZ, keep in mind the Pic #1 and 5 in your post are not for Mustangs. Note that in the Ford manuals they specify if the diagram is for a Mustang/Cougar, or for a generic Ford/Mercury/Lincoln.

[cmz69 10]

CMZ, keep in mind the Pic #1 and 5 in your post are not for Mustangs. Note that in the Ford manuals they specify if the diagram is for a Mustang/Cougar, or for a generic Ford/Mercury/Lincoln.

 

Yep, got that, just thought I'd throw those in. The early vs later change makes sense as well.

[Lemon Owner 11]

In regards to using a manual master cylinder as buening said as long as it is disc drum then fine. Mine however was drum drum and had the same size bowls. I opted to change the master cylinder to a disc drum when I went to power brakes. After a quick search on the interwebz apparently the drum brake master cylinder has a residual pressure valve used by drum brakes to keep them from leaking and other important stuff. This valve built in to the master is not suitable for disc brakes.

[prayers1 153]

My build date is 10/31/1968 is San Jose. Now what does that mean regarding brakes.

 

In regards to bowl size, both bowls are the same.

 

Lately, I've seen or it's just new to me, that you keep the Drum spindels and install (1967 ??) Disc Rotors and get a new 4 piston caliper. Now, do I still need to change my same bowl MC or switch to the MC for disc brakes and how about the Port. Valve?