cmz69

Oh, and some swap meets may have some individual letters for sale, last I looked bout $7 a pop.

Dental floss works wonders. Slide it in-between letter and deck all the way against stud and pull up. Then come in from other side. May have to play around with it til it pops loose. Won't do any damage to paint. You should be able to find some new clips online, usually the issue is the clips lost their tension on the pins. Securing them with an adhesive wouldn't hurt, I'd definitely try and find one that's safe on paint.

Looks like it gets in the way of vacuum line inlet on Carb manifold, surely you would have remember getting that outta the way.

I'm thinking part of dash, or around pulley component. My car's at paint, so I can't look and see. This is a brain teaser. I have after market Carb, on a car with at least two previous owners, but it does fit nicely.

I had a similar issue. I measure the distance from pump to inlet at a 90. Then went to auto parts store and looked threw their inventory. Found one that was close to my measurements with the correct openings. Tried bout an inch off either end. Gives me bout an inch of clearance from the belt. It has a tight bend, causing the hose to be oval vs. Round. That shouldn't cause a volume issue until it kinks. Like taking a cup and squeezing the top. The universal hoses work great for straighter shots, but wouldn't recommend them for any angle greater then 45.

Think I found the spring I used at Ace Hardware, and use a rubber grommet. Like those used for electrical wires thru sheet metal. Just found one with ID large enough for rod to move freely. Took some finesse, while compressing spring on rod, slid grommet into place. I haven't had any problems so far, though I don't use parking brake much. Easy, cheap, and quick fix. Works for my daily driver, may not be ideal for show car.

according to the shop manual i have, for 302 at idle rpm's are between 550-1600 at 6*, 26-31 dwell angle, 0.017 distributor point gap, 0.032-0.036 spark plug gap. if the carb rebuild doesn't do much, i'd move on to a spark/distributor problem. hope these help.

i would definitely do a carb rebuild for starters. not hard but can be lil frustrating. the kits usually have instructions, as mach1rider said, and you can always look it up on the holley website. i have a rebuild manual that covers 2300, 4100, and 4500 series holley carbs. shot me a pm if you have any questions and i'll look it up for you. good way i hear to find a vacuum leak is spraying starting fluid in the area you think is leaking and wait for engine to sound different. if you do a rebuild, make sure you get the right power valve, think holley has a reference chart online, and might as well rebuild both so you have a back-up. i'd work on the carb before trying anything with the points, and swap them out later. keep note of the idle mixture settings, when you rebuild, count the turns inward prior to removal and don't snug them down. if you don't you could start at 1.5 turns out, but may need to adjust them some more, best to put them back to where they are, this is usually a factory setting. clean up the rust, you should actually find more then your two yellow lines, they were probably painted there by someone else during their tuning, keep note of where they are. you can do this from under the car, when one area is clean hit the ignition just enough the get the shaft to turn and not start, and so on until the the rust is clean. a dremel tool with wire brush or extra fine grinding head works great, or good ole sand paper/wire brush with elbow grease. you may even see some #'s. i believe a socket and ratchet worked good for mine. i don't have a vacuum advance distributor, but would go with capping the vacuum as the main use is during acceleration from my understanding. if you don't have a full tool set, i recommend getting a mechanics set from craftsmen, they have a 260 piece for less then $300. don"t know much on timing lights, but i'd definitely would get one with a tach.

Yep, got that, just thought I'd throw those in. The early vs later change makes sense as well.

The only other thing I can think of is what plant the car originates from determines the different pb. I drove my car from the shop minus pb, major leak they bypassed the vacuum line, and it was like stoping with your foot against the tire. If its anything like that, wouldn't recommend it.

Kinda in the same boat, in Houston summers average high 90's at least, winters will rarely get in 20's. Also have guys recommend AMS oil.

ok, unfortunatly i did not find anything on the shelby. however, as i mentioned they usually used similar mounting hardware so here is a pic of rear for mustang and front for thunderbird. looks like they are the screw like piece or the push on pin clamp. i hope this helps.

after looking in my manual, it appears there are multiple set-ups. for combo disc/drum, all around drum, and of course power vs standard. believe it also varied with engine size. mine (blu) is for a 69 fb 302, c4 trans, and 9" rear with stock disc front and drum rear. gsxrken, your doesn't quite seem as big of a pb, maybe why the spacer is there? mine also has the clamp that connects front and rear of pb with the diaphragm clamped between.

I got reman from o'reilly's and it works perfectly fine. If I can recall there was no space on original nor reman, only rubber from internal diaphragm that acts like washer. Only spacer is actually a vent to allow air into the pb on the + side in order to allow the diaphragm to work with vacuum. This sits between pb and master. However, my 69 has drum rear and disc front, could be slightly different setup with drum all way around.

And hooking it around shaft and spinning it into place? I'd try that before prying on it. Like I said, run the risk of metal fatigue on the tab, and if you don't put it back in the right spot you have bringing, or it will have too much play. As I mention, mine had neither, so I use spring from hardware store and a rubber grommet with id just larger than shaft.