Idler arm bushing replacement

[MikeStang 247]

Ok guys,

I have never just replaced the idler arm bushing, always just replaced the entire arm.

Whats the procedure?

Remove the nut, beat out the shaft, then beat in a new bushing, or do i have to use my press adn press all this stuff back together?

Help ..would rather spend 30 bucks on bushings than 130 on a whole idler.

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Ok guys,

I have never just replaced the idler arm bushing, always just replaced the entire arm.

Whats the procedure?

Remove the nut, beat out the shaft, then beat in a new bushing, or do i have to use my press adn press all this stuff back together?

Help ..would rather spend 30 bucks on bushings than 130 on a whole idler.

Mike

[TexasEd 190]

Have you thought about these roller idler arms?

 

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/idlerarm/

 

They are $80-95 with a roller bearing instead of the rubber bushing.

[TexasEd 190]

Have you thought about these roller idler arms?

 

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/idlerarm/

 

They are $80-95 with a roller bearing instead of the rubber bushing.

[MikeStang 247]

The problem with the roller arms is that they do not allow the steering wheel to snap back to center when the wheel is released after coming out of a turn.....this can become difficult for some people to get accustom to, especially with Stock ford paower steering, which is TOTALLY Numb and overpowering....The car does not belong to me and the owner wants it factory origional.

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

The problem with the roller arms is that they do not allow the steering wheel to snap back to center when the wheel is released after coming out of a turn.....this can become difficult for some people to get accustom to, especially with Stock ford paower steering, which is TOTALLY Numb and overpowering....The car does not belong to me and the owner wants it factory origional.

Mike

[TexasEd 190]

OK, thanks for that information. Sorry I can't help with the original question.

[TexasEd 190]

OK, thanks for that information. Sorry I can't help with the original question.

[miketyler 15]

I have bought a bushing to replace mine as well. Have had no luck getting the old one out yet.

[MikeStang 247]

Well Mike,

I'm armed with a ton of persistence, a torch, a welder, shop press, and all the tools I have ever needed, along with a bottle of cap'n Morgan and only one coke......so I have a feeling I'm going to win this battle no matter what, but I don't know if I can predict the future for the idler arm tho, we will know in a few short hours, I will post results and pictures if need be.

On a side note.....I have scoured the Internet and most of the mustang sites and can't find any info on rebuilding one of these damn things...I may even video it....I mean after all why spend over 100 bucks and wait q few days to get another when u can rebuild your old one for 20 or less

Mike

[miketyler 15]

haha - agreed. Let me know how it goes. I may need to make a run to the beer store first.

Edited September 1, 2011 by miketyler

[MikeStang 247]

Well, in an effort to make myself feel better and establish a sense of completion to some degree, I decided to Forgo the replacement of the bushing last night, and instead went ahead and put the driver side suspension back together, this way I now have the entire front suspension replaced, and the car can be put on the road to go get an alignment....Then i will replace the idler, which should in no way effect the alignment ...I DONT THINK, at least it hasnt on any of the cars in the past that i have worked on.

I am beginning to wonder if this idler is bad tho, the only signs are the cracking of the bushing...And from what i have read the bushing is bonded to the metal, and thats attatched via the nut and it basically provides a return bounce of sorts to aid the suspension in recovering a neutral balance after coming out of a curve, which in turn makes the steering wheel spin back the other direction after you complete a turn.

You can turn the suspension under the car by grabbing one of the brake drums and pulling it one way or another, and when it reaches its limit of travel it will rebound in your hands and attempt to go back the other direction, it doesnt move much when you do this but it is noticeable......

There is one other thing also.....The idler arm is 2 pieces held together by this Bushing we are talking about....so basically there is a solid piece that bolts to the frame on one end, then another end that has the bushing and nut on it, which attatches to another little piece which has what looks to be a ball joint of sorts on it, and by this i mean its got the little shaft ball and socket type deal on it........This brings me to my next point, or Question......it stand to reason that this little ball and socket part would ALSO be worn out if the bushing is worn out Correct????

So if that is the case, WHY IN THE HELL do they even bother selling the bushing, because you cant buy either of the hard parts sepratley, but you can buy a KIT that has all of the parts in it and the kit comes unassembled, or you can buy a complete Idler...

Now i did notice when i was moving the suspension back and forth that the little ball and socket had good movement back and fourth and seemed pretty tight, until the suspension reached the end of travel, and at this point, the rubber bushing would provide the bounce i described, and this would in turn cause the little ball joint section to appear to lift up and away from the drag link.....and that brings me to the conclusion that the ball and socket joint may be worn out as well.....THUS making it nesicary to change the entire unit......So in conclusion.......I will be going to the body shop where my car is at, jacking the car up and pulling on my BRAND NEW suspension that has a NEW idler arm on it and taking a look to see what a new idler does, then i will make the decision on what to do about the idler on the car im presently working on.......So this means that i didnt mess with the idler on the present car just in case yall are wondering HAHAH.

I will keep yall updated as events transpire.

Mike

[TexasEd 190]

let us know what you learn. If the old one looks like it needs replacement can you post a picture of the ball joint movement at the end of travel that you described?

[LoneWolf2U 136]

To replace the bushing, First remove the inner sleeve tube by pressing it out.

Then press out the rubber, it will take some effort because over time the rubber has bonded to the metal.

Lube the new rubber bushing and press it back in place followed by the inner sleeve tube and reinstall arm.

[miketyler 15]

I did just that pressing out the inner bushing, then rubber, then chiseled out the outer sleeve. Wasnt bad at all. I was curious about the other bushing though it seemed tight and rubber was intact. I removed nut and found a little play in the bracket pin and the bushing. I may replace it all now.

Edited September 2, 2011 by miketyler

[gsxrken 21]

I always thought caster was what returned the steering to center. I'm doubting your theory of a bounce back purpose for the idler. My rack returns fine without one. But I'm here to learn.

[MikeStang 247]

well from what i have read, the reason that all the bushing crap is pressed into place, and the reason you cannott turn a new idler arm is because the rubber is bonded to everything, and once installed the idler faces straight forward, and when turned to one side or the other, the idler is automatically trying to go back to center because the rubber is bonded/ pressed in....this is what i read some where and the theroy seems sound....Buckeye what you know about this.

Mike

[70mstang 11]

Same thing that I have read. it's really the only purpose for the idler arm. Bring it back to center.

[MikeStang 247]

I dont know if its the only purpose, i wonder what would happen if you just removed it......i think the steering linkage would fall down a bit, since you would then have no place that the linkage was actually anchored on LOL.

I may tinker with it tonight.

I did press apart the new bushing last night,,,,,,it came apart super easy, but going back together was a lesson in descruction....the rubber bushing when pressed back into the outer shell got part of the shoulder cut off :(....

I havent removed the bushing from the old idler, wanted to see what would happen by just taking the bushing apart. now i know....

So reading the instructions above .....when i press teh rubber out of the shell, the inner most metal piece will not come loose from the rubber....but from what i see one of you guys said remove it..

Mike

[Ry-speeed 14]

Sorry to bring up a thread that hasn't had seen any activity in 2 years, but there doesn't seem to have been a topic of conversation as of late.

Decided to go ahead and order 2 MOOG bushings to press in/out and re-use the old idler arm.

 

Has anyone had success going this route instead of swapping in an entire re-pop idler arm assembly?

 

Anything else I should know before attempting to swap the bushings??

[bomccorkle 12]

I used a torch to burn the center out of the old bushing then crushed the liner than was left in a vise to get it out. I just turned a piece of delrin for my new bushing ...