lincoln8 10 Report post Posted August 26, 2011 There is a company in Chicago who makes a very nice 24" rad for 199.00. The rads are a little thicker than stock and have two rows of 1 inch tubes that will out cool most four tube rads. The rad bolted in place with no problems and when painted black it looks darn good. Check engineered-products on ebay. I live in Vancouver so I have no ties with this company other to recommend a good made in the USA product which I would easliy compare to a Be Cool rad for a lot less money. I believe all Be Cool rads are 2 row as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lincoln8 10 Report post Posted August 26, 2011 There is a company in Chicago who makes a very nice 24" rad for 199.00. The rads are a little thicker than stock and have two rows of 1 inch tubes that will out cool most four tube rads. The rad bolted in place with no problems and when painted black it looks darn good. Check engineered-products on ebay. I live in Vancouver so I have no ties with this company other to recommend a good made in the USA product which I would easliy compare to a Be Cool rad for a lot less money. I believe all Be Cool rads are 2 row as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) I need a new radiator for the 408. Right now I'm running stock radiator for a 351W, w/ AC, and an electric fan, and it's getting hot. I'm looking for reviews on some aluminum radiators. I'd like some sort of "cost effective" route, as some radiators are pretty high. I have a drivers side inlet water pump, so my lower hose is on the drivers side, and the upper hose is on the passenger side. What are you guys running? I'd like to spend around $300. I am running a stock dimension 2 row aluminum PWR radiator with a flex-lite trim line electric pusher fan on a 357W with 11:1 CR and a hot roller cam and I cannot seem to get my engine temp above 160 when sitting in traffic. WHen cruising, the temps are around 150. I have a March Serpentine conversion and a Meziere electric water pump and there wasn't enough room for a puller fan so I put a pusher on it. If anything, my car runs too cold now. http://www.absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=121 Priced at $375 Edited August 28, 2011 by BigDuke6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) I need a new radiator for the 408. Right now I'm running stock radiator for a 351W, w/ AC, and an electric fan, and it's getting hot. I'm looking for reviews on some aluminum radiators. I'd like some sort of "cost effective" route, as some radiators are pretty high. I have a drivers side inlet water pump, so my lower hose is on the drivers side, and the upper hose is on the passenger side. What are you guys running? I'd like to spend around $300. I am running a stock dimension 2 row aluminum PWR radiator with a flex-lite trim line electric pusher fan on a 357W with 11:1 CR and a hot roller cam and I cannot seem to get my engine temp above 160 when sitting in traffic. WHen cruising, the temps are around 150. I have a March Serpentine conversion and a Meziere electric water pump and there wasn't enough room for a puller fan so I put a pusher on it. If anything, my car runs too cold now. http://www.absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=121 Priced at $375 Edited August 28, 2011 by BigDuke6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 I am running a stock dimension 2 row aluminum radiator from absolute radiator with a flex-lite trim line electric pusher fan on a 357W with 11:1 CR and a hot roller cam and I cannot seem to get my engine temp above 160 when sitting in traffic. WHen cruising, the temps are around 150. I have a March Serpentine conversion and a Meziere electric water pump and there wasn't enough room for a puller fan so I put a pusher on it. If anything, my car runs too cold now. http://www.absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=121 Priced at $375 Are you using a thermostat? If you are, what temp thermostat are you running? I've been to Furth many times. I was in the U.S. Army in Bamberg, and we would go to your area on trips pretty often. My kids loved the Playmobile Land there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 I am running a stock dimension 2 row aluminum radiator from absolute radiator with a flex-lite trim line electric pusher fan on a 357W with 11:1 CR and a hot roller cam and I cannot seem to get my engine temp above 160 when sitting in traffic. WHen cruising, the temps are around 150. I have a March Serpentine conversion and a Meziere electric water pump and there wasn't enough room for a puller fan so I put a pusher on it. If anything, my car runs too cold now. http://www.absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=121 Priced at $375 Are you using a thermostat? If you are, what temp thermostat are you running? I've been to Furth many times. I was in the U.S. Army in Bamberg, and we would go to your area on trips pretty often. My kids loved the Playmobile Land there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Are you using a thermostat? If you are, what temp thermostat are you running? I've been to Furth many times. I was in the U.S. Army in Bamberg, and we would go to your area on trips pretty often. My kids loved the Playmobile Land there. I have a thermostat linked to the fan that is supposed to switch on at 190 but the car never gets above 160. I don't know if the fan is on or not because you cannot hear it above the sound of the engine. I have already hooked up with some army guys at Bamberg. One guy has a 12 second 2004 Mach 1. My big worry is that my car won't pass TUV inspection because the exhaust is so loud. Edited August 28, 2011 by BigDuke6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Are you using a thermostat? If you are, what temp thermostat are you running? I've been to Furth many times. I was in the U.S. Army in Bamberg, and we would go to your area on trips pretty often. My kids loved the Playmobile Land there. I have a thermostat linked to the fan that is supposed to switch on at 190 but the car never gets above 160. I don't know if the fan is on or not because you cannot hear it above the sound of the engine. I have already hooked up with some army guys at Bamberg. One guy has a 12 second 2004 Mach 1. My big worry is that my car won't pass TUV inspection because the exhaust is so loud. Edited August 28, 2011 by BigDuke6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) I have a thermostat linked to the fan that is supposed to switch on at 190 but the car never gets above 160. I don't know if the fan is on or not because you cannot hear it above the sound of the engine. I have already hooked up with some army guys at Bamberg. One guy has a 12 second 2004 Mach 1. My big worry is that my car won't pass TUV inspection because the exhaust is so loud. I think if you were to put a 180 degree thermostat in the thermostat housing, it would fix your problem. It would hold your coolant in the engine until it got to 180 degrees, then it would open up allowing the hot coolant to flow out. The only thing your fan thermostat does is turn on the fan when it gets hot. You will find your heater works much better when it gets cold also. Edited August 30, 2011 by jholmes217 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) I have a thermostat linked to the fan that is supposed to switch on at 190 but the car never gets above 160. I don't know if the fan is on or not because you cannot hear it above the sound of the engine. I have already hooked up with some army guys at Bamberg. One guy has a 12 second 2004 Mach 1. My big worry is that my car won't pass TUV inspection because the exhaust is so loud. I think if you were to put a 180 degree thermostat in the thermostat housing, it would fix your problem. It would hold your coolant in the engine until it got to 180 degrees, then it would open up allowing the hot coolant to flow out. The only thing your fan thermostat does is turn on the fan when it gets hot. You will find your heater works much better when it gets cold also. Edited August 30, 2011 by jholmes217 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 Running too cool? Not a bad problem to have around where I live...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 Running too cool? Not a bad problem to have around where I live...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 Running too cool? Not a bad problem to have around where I live...... I think you want the car to run at least 180. I have a hard time getting it up to 160. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 Running too cool? Not a bad problem to have around where I live...... I think you want the car to run at least 180. I have a hard time getting it up to 160. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 I think if you were to put a 180 degree thermostat in the thermostat housing, it would fix your problem. It would hold your coolant in the engine until it got to 180 degrees, then it would open up allowing the hot coolant to flow out. The only thing your fan thermastat does is turn on the fan when it gets hot. You will find your heater works much better when it gets cold also. This is what I think your answer is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 I think if you were to put a 180 degree thermostat in the thermostat housing, it would fix your problem. It would hold your coolant in the engine until it got to 180 degrees, then it would open up allowing the hot coolant to flow out. The only thing your fan thermastat does is turn on the fan when it gets hot. You will find your heater works much better when it gets cold also. This is what I think your answer is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 This is what I think your answer is. As it is written, so it shall be done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigDuke6 17 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 This is what I think your answer is. As it is written, so it shall be done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 I think you want the car to run at least 180. I have a hard time getting it up to 160. Agreed. A stable 180-190, even 200. Given the current temps in our area, a car that runs too cool is almost unheard of. Assuming you have confirmed these cool temps with another gauge or non contact temp reader, how did the car run before you went with the serpentine system and electric water pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 I think you want the car to run at least 180. I have a hard time getting it up to 160. Agreed. A stable 180-190, even 200. Given the current temps in our area, a car that runs too cool is almost unheard of. Assuming you have confirmed these cool temps with another gauge or non contact temp reader, how did the car run before you went with the serpentine system and electric water pump? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 As it is written, so it shall be done. Hey BigDuke6; Did a 180 degree thermostat solve your problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 I wouldn't rely on a stock temp gauge to determine if it's running too cool. With a 180 'stat my gauge barely moved into the normal range, so I decided to swap it out for a 190. It made absolutely no difference at the gauge. My conclusion was that the gauge is way out of calibration, so I put the 180 back in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 I ran a simple test to id the temp reading of the guage. From a cold start with a thermometer in the rad neck. Start eng and let warm till stat opens noting the temp guage reading to rad temps. Start up = 60 temp idling 2 mins = 100, needle halfway to T idling 5 mins = 160, needle at ctr of T idling 10 mins = 182, needle ctr of T-E Stat fully open = 188, needle passes down the Left side of E Basing it on those reading, needle straight thru the M is apporx 210 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites