Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 My 69 convertible has never been restored and was a daily driver through many years. then sat. Has been snowed on many winters and the frame is going to need work if not pretty much redone soon. What options do i have that can help me have a sturdy ride to build on, without making a serious dent in my wallet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 My 69 convertible has never been restored and was a daily driver through many years. then sat. Has been snowed on many winters and the frame is going to need work if not pretty much redone soon. What options do i have that can help me have a sturdy ride to build on, without making a serious dent in my wallet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 Would it be possible to provide pictures of the frame front & back. If you are able to do the work yourself the cost will not be to bad even if replacing everything. If you need to farm it out it may get costly in a hurry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 Would it be possible to provide pictures of the frame front & back. If you are able to do the work yourself the cost will not be to bad even if replacing everything. If you need to farm it out it may get costly in a hurry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigperm2 10 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Check out this website! http://www.dansstang.com/ That will give you a hint as to what you are in for. If you can use a mig welder and metal working tools, you can do it for a reasonale price. If you are going to pay someone, you would be better off buying a restored car. I am getting close to finishing my my 69 convertible driver, and I did everything myself (only minor frame patches, no replacement, replaced floor, quarters, fenders, etc.) With time being free, I am probably at $3,000 less than I could sell the car for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigperm2 10 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Check out this website! http://www.dansstang.com/ That will give you a hint as to what you are in for. If you can use a mig welder and metal working tools, you can do it for a reasonale price. If you are going to pay someone, you would be better off buying a restored car. I am getting close to finishing my my 69 convertible driver, and I did everything myself (only minor frame patches, no replacement, replaced floor, quarters, fenders, etc.) With time being free, I am probably at $3,000 less than I could sell the car for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Pull the carpet and front fenders off to see where you're at. I see you're from Ohio, so you're probably gonna have holes in the floors, front frame rails, torque boxes and elsewhere. Sturdy torque boxes are important on a vert. As others have said, the parts aren't too expensive for a regular budget but the time and effort can be quite a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Pull the carpet and front fenders off to see where you're at. I see you're from Ohio, so you're probably gonna have holes in the floors, front frame rails, torque boxes and elsewhere. Sturdy torque boxes are important on a vert. As others have said, the parts aren't too expensive for a regular budget but the time and effort can be quite a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sleek98 12 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Check out my thread in the project forum. If your shock towers need replaced or even if the rail needs done i would highly suggest using the Dynacorn rail, tower, apron piece. It went in without a problem and replaced the front frame rails, and doesnt look hacked together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sleek98 12 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 Check out my thread in the project forum. If your shock towers need replaced or even if the rail needs done i would highly suggest using the Dynacorn rail, tower, apron piece. It went in without a problem and replaced the front frame rails, and doesnt look hacked together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 thanks for all of the feed back! the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? we have been to a few shops and both carged between $85 and $100 dollars an hour. is this as good as im going to get? or does anyone know? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 thanks for all of the feed back! the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? we have been to a few shops and both carged between $85 and $100 dollars an hour. is this as good as im going to get? or does anyone know? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 You might also look for a co-op type place that you can rent space and do the work yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted June 9, 2011 You might also look for a co-op type place that you can rent space and do the work yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? There's a few of us buckeyes here, I recognized the license plate. :smile: Anyway, I've met several guys at cruise-ins who do work on the side. You might try going to a few local cruise nights and ask around "who did your body work", etc ... you might find somebody who can do nice work right down the street ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? There's a few of us buckeyes here, I recognized the license plate. :smile: Anyway, I've met several guys at cruise-ins who do work on the side. You might try going to a few local cruise nights and ask around "who did your body work", etc ... you might find somebody who can do nice work right down the street ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69StangRestomod 11 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 do what I did....just do it! I bought my car when I was 14 (21 now....), bought a welder, read a book or two, and went to town. Metal is nice because if you REALLY fubar it, you can alway cut it out and re-do. only replace what needs to be replaced.. You can do it with common sense and time. just be sure to square the body up before you cut any part of the frame out. I bought a few sticks of 1 5/8" square tubing and braced everything before I would cut anything out. I think if oyu just start working on it, you'll be suprised what oyu can do. buy a cheap set of body hammers, welder, and metal and get after it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69StangRestomod 11 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 do what I did....just do it! I bought my car when I was 14 (21 now....), bought a welder, read a book or two, and went to town. Metal is nice because if you REALLY fubar it, you can alway cut it out and re-do. only replace what needs to be replaced.. You can do it with common sense and time. just be sure to square the body up before you cut any part of the frame out. I bought a few sticks of 1 5/8" square tubing and braced everything before I would cut anything out. I think if oyu just start working on it, you'll be suprised what oyu can do. buy a cheap set of body hammers, welder, and metal and get after it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 thanks for all of the feed back! the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? we have been to a few shops and both carged between $85 and $100 dollars an hour. is this as good as im going to get? or does anyone know? Hamilton area, huh. That's fairly close. I have a pair of used rear frame rails I cut out my my car. replaced them with steel tubing. They're still pretty solid but the leaf springs are still attached at the front. The bolts seem to be stuck in the bushings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted June 10, 2011 thanks for all of the feed back! the "i see your from ohio" post made me laugh, but its totally true lol. anyhow, i dont weld very well and i dont have really anyplace safe enough to tear apart the car.(my barn is gravel and dirt floor) Does anyone know of any shops in this area that doesnt charge an arm and a leg for labor? we have been to a few shops and both carged between $85 and $100 dollars an hour. is this as good as im going to get? or does anyone know? Hamilton area, huh. That's fairly close. I have a pair of used rear frame rails I cut out my my car. replaced them with steel tubing. They're still pretty solid but the leaf springs are still attached at the front. The bolts seem to be stuck in the bushings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
