Cruzzar finally finished

[Cruzzar 22]

No spectre kit, I made the radiator cover, the export brace cover and the entire air cleaner box (including snorkels) from foam forms and fiberglass layups. I started with a dropped base air cleaner, formed a foam core, glassed it and removed the foam from the inside. Did the same for the snorkels and glassed them to the airbox. I did use a chrome air cleaner lid and use a 14" K&N filter inside. I made the air cleaner because I could not get any aftermarket parts that would fit on the engine's (427 windsor) airgap manifold and still connect with the cold air boxes comming up from the innerpanels and not interfer with the stock hood. I also had to make the montecarlo bar and brackets to clear the snorkels, air cleaner box and distributor. Here's some construction pics of the air box's parts including the grill vents and alum. transition boxes behind the headlight extensions.

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[Cruzzar 22]

No spectre kit, I made the radiator cover, the export brace cover and the entire air cleaner box (including snorkels) from foam forms and fiberglass layups. I started with a dropped base air cleaner, formed a foam core, glassed it and removed the foam from the inside. Did the same for the snorkels and glassed them to the airbox. I did use a chrome air cleaner lid and use a 14" K&N filter inside. I made the air cleaner because I could not get any aftermarket parts that would fit on the engine's (427 windsor) airgap manifold and still connect with the cold air boxes comming up from the innerpanels and not interfer with the stock hood. I also had to make the montecarlo bar and brackets to clear the snorkels, air cleaner box and distributor. Here's some construction pics of the air box's parts including the grill vents and alum. transition boxes behind the headlight extensions.

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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

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[42ITUS 13]

amazing! love it.

[42ITUS 13]

amazing! love it.

[RogerC 136]

Very innovative. I like your thinking.

[RogerC 136]

Very innovative. I like your thinking.

[MikeStang 247]

Thats bad AZZ...Would like to see some more pictures tho....im interested in trying something like that myself, and would like some insight into how to make an air cleaner assy similar to that.....you make it large enough that is looks really cool, and at the same time it helps hide some of the unsigltly things like wires, bolt heads that aint so pretty...oil leaks Etccc.......Ever wonder why all the new cars these days have big huge covers over the motors? Because they are not pretty and have wires and looms all over them place HAHA at least thats my opinion..

I would like to know why you made a foam core to make the aircleaner base....If you have a metal drop base, why didnt you attatch to that ?

I have not messed with fiberglass a whole lot other than to glass over existing stuff, so im a bit of a newb at it......how many layers did you use, and just how thick/strong is it....you using the same old standard fiberglass mats and resin thats been around for ever?>

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Thats bad AZZ...Would like to see some more pictures tho....im interested in trying something like that myself, and would like some insight into how to make an air cleaner assy similar to that.....you make it large enough that is looks really cool, and at the same time it helps hide some of the unsigltly things like wires, bolt heads that aint so pretty...oil leaks Etccc.......Ever wonder why all the new cars these days have big huge covers over the motors? Because they are not pretty and have wires and looms all over them place HAHA at least thats my opinion..

I would like to know why you made a foam core to make the aircleaner base....If you have a metal drop base, why didnt you attatch to that ?

I have not messed with fiberglass a whole lot other than to glass over existing stuff, so im a bit of a newb at it......how many layers did you use, and just how thick/strong is it....you using the same old standard fiberglass mats and resin thats been around for ever?>

Mike

[Cruzzar 22]

MikeStang, I have been fortunate to help friends work on composite airplanes as well as building one with my brother so building covers, enclosures and fairings using fiberglass is not as challenging as if I was just starting but I encourage others to try.

The basic shape of the part can be made out of any type of foam but I like using a dense foam. It cuts easy and can be sanded with 80 grt. sandpaper. I usually cover the foam with grey tape (which acts as a mold release) and put on 3 to 5 layers pending its application. I usually use a 6 oz. bidirectional fiberglass cloth and West's Systems epoxy with a slow activator. I don't use matt because it takes some much time and effort to finish for painting.

The reason I extended the drop base down further is that I wanted a larger (taller) cross sectional area at the interface with the snorkels. I could not go any further because the base would have interferred with the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. Every thing clears in the engine compartment but there is not a lot of room to spare. Here's some pics of my radiator fan shroud (with two speed Tarus fan) using the same method of production.

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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited August 17, 2011 by Cruzzar

[Cruzzar 22]

MikeStang, I have been fortunate to help friends work on composite airplanes as well as building one with my brother so building covers, enclosures and fairings using fiberglass is not as challenging as if I was just starting but I encourage others to try.

The basic shape of the part can be made out of any type of foam but I like using a dense foam. It cuts easy and can be sanded with 80 grt. sandpaper. I usually cover the foam with grey tape (which acts as a mold release) and put on 3 to 5 layers pending its application. I usually use a 6 oz. bidirectional fiberglass cloth and West's Systems epoxy with a slow activator. I don't use matt because it takes some much time and effort to finish for painting.

The reason I extended the drop base down further is that I wanted a larger (taller) cross sectional area at the interface with the snorkels. I could not go any further because the base would have interferred with the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. Every thing clears in the engine compartment but there is not a lot of room to spare. Here's some pics of my radiator fan shroud (with two speed Tarus fan) using the same method of production.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited August 17, 2011 by Cruzzar

[MikeStang 247]

Love it....So is that stuff strong enough to hold that fan in place and handle the fan draw and weight?

Where do you get the West's System epoxy, and when you say bidirectional cloth, are you just talking about regular fiberglass mat?

do you actually lay 3-5 layers of matting, or just 3 coats of the epoxy?>

I can get the dense foam no problem

I see on the radiator on the edges where the shroud attatches that the foam isnt extended all the way out....how did you make the mounting boss locations? Just use tape right on top of the radiator area and lay matting on top of it?

Did you actually leave the foam sitting on the radiator when you applied the product?

Also whats the big weight for in the center LOL is that something to provide a hole so you will have a place to start cutting from to cut out the hole for the fan?

Sorry i know these are newb questions, but i havent had alot of Exp with this stuff, but i think it could become addictive to do...i love to hand make stuff LOL

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Love it....So is that stuff strong enough to hold that fan in place and handle the fan draw and weight?

Where do you get the West's System epoxy, and when you say bidirectional cloth, are you just talking about regular fiberglass mat?

do you actually lay 3-5 layers of matting, or just 3 coats of the epoxy?>

I can get the dense foam no problem

I see on the radiator on the edges where the shroud attatches that the foam isnt extended all the way out....how did you make the mounting boss locations? Just use tape right on top of the radiator area and lay matting on top of it?

Did you actually leave the foam sitting on the radiator when you applied the product?

Also whats the big weight for in the center LOL is that something to provide a hole so you will have a place to start cutting from to cut out the hole for the fan?

Sorry i know these are newb questions, but i havent had alot of Exp with this stuff, but i think it could become addictive to do...i love to hand make stuff LOL

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

About how much of the epoxy resin did it take to make the shroud?

Looking at the prices on tht stuff...its pretty steep :p ...but then again, to get something that is right like you want it costs money some time.

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

About how much of the epoxy resin did it take to make the shroud?

Looking at the prices on tht stuff...its pretty steep :p ...but then again, to get something that is right like you want it costs money some time.

Mike

[Angel 24]

What shade of black did you use for the engine compartment? Satin? Semi-gloss?

[Angel 24]

What shade of black did you use for the engine compartment? Satin? Semi-gloss?

[zach69grande 25]

damn. wow. i mean. wow.

[zach69grande 25]

damn. wow. i mean. wow.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

very nice. great work!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

very nice. great work!

[MikeStang 247]

Would really like to see some close ups of that air cleaner ...especially want to know what the second picture is all about...wondering why you have tape on the top of the thing...assuming you had made the bottom and are going to build the top?

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Would really like to see some close ups of that air cleaner ...especially want to know what the second picture is all about...wondering why you have tape on the top of the thing...assuming you had made the bottom and are going to build the top?

Mike

[Cruzzar 22]

MikeStang, I've used the West Systems for many years for a variety of projects (planes and cars). It is pricy but you don't really want to cut corners on an airplane if you happen to be the pilot and run into clear air turbulance at 10,000 ft. I also like it because when using the slow activator you have about 30 minutes of application time before it sets off. It get hot (100 Degrees) where I live in Calif. A quart would be plenty to do a fan shroud. Here's where I get my supplies www.aircraftspruce.com

The fiberglass cloth (not matt) that I use is mostly bi-directional which means that 50% of the fibers go one direction and 50% go (90 deg.) the other direction. You can buy what is call uni-direction cloth where 90% of the fibers go in one direction and 10% in the other. Their uses all depends on which direction you want most of the glass's strength to align to.

5 layers of 6 oz. glass is definitely strong enough to support the fan's weight and horizontal load that it produces. The Tarus two speed fan is rather heavy. If you notice I used the original plastic Tarus mounting cage. I cut away all of the cage execpt the flat flange that surrounded the perimeter of the blade. This flange is used to bolt the cage to the fiberglass shroud. I attached nutplates to the inside of the fiberglass shroud. Nutplates are held on with flush mounted rivets so you don't have to hold them when you tighten the 10-32 button head bolts down. The have a mechanical locking nut integrated into each nutplate so they won't come loose. I also used nutplates to hold the shroud to the radiator. This fan will not fit in most mustangs. I built my own motor mounts (use the search function above and type in "Cruzzar") and used the Vintage Air front runner which allowed me just enough room to get this all to fit.

I did just tape over the aluminum and then glassed right onto the grey tape. Make sure you run the glass a little over the edges because you will come back later and cut and sand them so they are perfectly flush with the edge of the radiator. The foam stays in place until the epoxy sets up. The foam had a bow in it so I put the weight on it to keep it flat when I glassed it. I did not put glass over the center of the radiator knowing that I would just cut it away anyway. Pics of the Tarus cage and nutplates.

 

Angel, black paint on radiator cover, top of hood and tail light panel in back is a PPG product called Delfleet Essential Flat BLack (esss-911678). I have been told that if you can use a liquid wax on it and it will not absorb the wax and look murky (definetly don't use a paste wax) but I have not tried it yet.

[Cruzzar 22]

MikeStang, I've used the West Systems for many years for a variety of projects (planes and cars). It is pricy but you don't really want to cut corners on an airplane if you happen to be the pilot and run into clear air turbulance at 10,000 ft. I also like it because when using the slow activator you have about 30 minutes of application time before it sets off. It get hot (100 Degrees) where I live in Calif. A quart would be plenty to do a fan shroud. Here's where I get my supplies www.aircraftspruce.com

The fiberglass cloth (not matt) that I use is mostly bi-directional which means that 50% of the fibers go one direction and 50% go (90 deg.) the other direction. You can buy what is call uni-direction cloth where 90% of the fibers go in one direction and 10% in the other. Their uses all depends on which direction you want most of the glass's strength to align to.

5 layers of 6 oz. glass is definitely strong enough to support the fan's weight and horizontal load that it produces. The Tarus two speed fan is rather heavy. If you notice I used the original plastic Tarus mounting cage. I cut away all of the cage execpt the flat flange that surrounded the perimeter of the blade. This flange is used to bolt the cage to the fiberglass shroud. I attached nutplates to the inside of the fiberglass shroud. Nutplates are held on with flush mounted rivets so you don't have to hold them when you tighten the 10-32 button head bolts down. The have a mechanical locking nut integrated into each nutplate so they won't come loose. I also used nutplates to hold the shroud to the radiator. This fan will not fit in most mustangs. I built my own motor mounts (use the search function above and type in "Cruzzar") and used the Vintage Air front runner which allowed me just enough room to get this all to fit.

I did just tape over the aluminum and then glassed right onto the grey tape. Make sure you run the glass a little over the edges because you will come back later and cut and sand them so they are perfectly flush with the edge of the radiator. The foam stays in place until the epoxy sets up. The foam had a bow in it so I put the weight on it to keep it flat when I glassed it. I did not put glass over the center of the radiator knowing that I would just cut it away anyway. Pics of the Tarus cage and nutplates.

 

Angel, black paint on radiator cover, top of hood and tail light panel in back is a PPG product called Delfleet Essential Flat BLack (esss-911678). I have been told that if you can use a liquid wax on it and it will not absorb the wax and look murky (definetly don't use a paste wax) but I have not tried it yet.

[Cruzzar 22]

Mike regarding the air cleaner pic. I will not make another foam mold for the top. This mold is showing that the bottom is done and I am about to glass right onto it to complete the top. It's really hard to glass both side of the air cleaner box at the same time so I do half at a time. That pic shows after I have one side done (the bottom) and about ready to do the other (the top). You can see the cut out area for the distributor has already been glassed. A little trick when doing something like this is to sand a low area into the foam where the glass is to overlap when glassing the second side. In other words, I wanted the sides of the air box to be flat when finished. When you glass one half of the box (either top or bottom) you will run your glass a little over the sides's center so when you glass the second side the glass will overlap the first side's glass a little (you'll scuff up the area where the second side's glass will make contact with the first's side glass to get a good bond). If the foam is perfectly flat to start with, when you put the two overlapping glass layups on, you will end up with a bulge instead of a flat side that will take a lot of filler to get flat. So, if you sand a low area into the foam where the two glass layups overlap the end result will be either a flat or a little low which can be fixed with a little filler. How much of a low area do you create in the foam is up to how many layers of glass are going to end up in that area. If you look at that pic you can see the low area that was sanded into the foam before I did the first layup. I hope this is clear.

Edited August 18, 2011 by Cruzzar