Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 1, 2012 I wish we ALL lived closer together, so we could all link up with our cars at one meet!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted May 1, 2012 I wish we ALL lived closer together, so we could all link up with our cars at one meet!! Maybe, just maybe someday we can have a giant meet out in Kansas or something like that in the middle of the Country. Not fair to all I know but our majority of members are in the continental US. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 6, 2012 Us Bullitt folks do an annual gathering that rotates around the country each year. I've only had the opportunity to attend once; hoping to make it this year. Thought I'd give another update. With the coilover installed I moved on to the Borgeson conversion I had sitting on the shelf after buying it on sale 6 months ago. I also replaced all the steering components with Moog parts (btw, ebay and amazon are your friend for stuff like that). The process went fairly well. Had some problems getting the pitman arm off the old Flaming River box. Had to remove the exhaust manifold to get the steering box out and the new one back in. The steering pump went on easy once I removed all the accessory brackets that were in the way (if you don't have a/c you'll have an easier time). My biggest complaint was the pressure hose. It was about 1 inch too short. I tried and tried to get it on and just couldn't do it. Ended up getting some brake line tubing, some u-bolts and flaring the ends to get a bit more length. This worked except the nut I had was about 1/8" longer than Borgeson's and I didn't have a double flare tool. Between the two issues I could not prevent seeping. So, after struggling with that (not much room to tighten the bolt) I had NAPA make me a new power steering hose that was 2 inches longer and had the correct ends. This issue put me behind by 2 weeks but with the correct length hose I was done in 20 minutes. I also would complain about the customer service. The instructions are fairly vague and lack details like which kind of fluid to use and how much. While I received fairly quick responses to those questions I have yet to hear back about the short hose. You'd think for the price of the system they would offer to send out a new hose that is a bit longer. Since the '69 has a collapsible steering column it isn't supposed to be necessary to cut anything. But after installation I've discovered the rag joint is rubbing against the tube covering the steering column. I'll have to try and cut it with everything installed...not looking forward to that! Even though I've only moved the car in and out of the driveway, I can tell you the steering feels very tight. There is no vague center feel issue. I'm not sure about the return to center yet because I haven't got it aligned yet...plus the rubbing issue. If anyone needs some old steering/suspension parts (except control arms) let me know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 6, 2012 Good update. Be sure and let us know how the steering feels once you get some time on the road. I can see how having a steering hose be a bit too short could be very frustrating. Sounds like you did the right thing having a new hose made! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 9, 2012 I finally broke down and had NAPA make me a longer p/s hose. Should have done that in the first place. I still had to screw the bejeepers out of the nut to get it to stop seeping, but it is working. On the down side I've come to the conclusion I need to cut the inner steering column tube. The rag joint is just rubbing too much and preventing the steering wheel from operation freely. I tried to slightly flair out the inner tube, but the rag joint bolts catch on it. I have absolutely no idea how to cut the tube without removing everything again...a total pain in the arse!! I can't get access with my cutter, dremel or hacksaw blade with everything installed. Does anyone have some suggestions before I remove the exhaust manifold, box and rag joint? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 10, 2012 So I broke down and took it all apart. I used a grinder to make the inner tube flush with the outer tube. Put it back together and smooth steering. I drove it around the block and I can tell you it is night and day compared to the stock system. Absolutely no vagueness. Since the car isn't aligned I can't address return to center issues yet. Sooooo, you won't believe what else I did! During the above fix I also removed the front passenger tire so I could make a minor height adjustment to the coilover. During my little test drive I kept hearing a knock that changed with speed and was related to something rotating. My wife walked next to the car and verified it was from the front right. So I pull the car into the garage and can't find anything wrong. I decide to jack up the front and see what happened when the wheels turned. Have you guessed what I did? Yep, I forgot to tighten the passenger front wheel and it was wobbling back and forth. I had only finger tightened the lugs. I am so lucky the whole thing didn't fall off. Glad I only went around the block. But I'm also thankful for such an easy fix considering all it has taken to get the car going. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted May 10, 2012 Ouch, that could have ended badly. If it helps I have done the same to a rear tyre. Didn't even know until my friend in the car following me was waving and flashing his lights. Pulled over and found two nuts had fallen off completely and the others were nice and loose. Sometimes you just have a win. Makes up for all the crap we deal with fixing these things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted May 10, 2012 SO glad that ended well. I would HATE to hear of what could have happened if the wheel came off!! Glad you got your steering issue fixed too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 12, 2012 Some more follow up. I had the car aligned but we couldn't get it exactly right. I need to recenter the steering box by about 1/2" and then reattach it to the column. I may unscrew the manual link adapter a few turns as well. One of the tie rods is pretty much maxed out. But regardless of all that I can vouch for the Borgeson system. Despite their lack of customer acknowledgement of well known issues, the system works well. My car drives like a modern car. I had it up to 60 for several miles yesterday and it was rock solid. There is absolutely no vagueness in the steering wheel. I would say the turning effort falls in the middle of the stock p/s system and that of a modern car. I don't have any return to center issues. It may not be exactly like a modern car, but I didn't notice any lack of return to center while driving. Absolutely nothing was bothering my while driving. As for the coilover system from streeortrack...get it! Man, that setup is awesome. I feel like I could take any corner with it...and I only have the street version. The ride is a great compromise for the street. It is softer than my gas-a-just shocks (which would knock your teeth out) but firmer than the GR2s. But that is really comparing apples and oranges since those were on the stock style suspension. I have complete confidence in the handling of my car for the first time since I rebuilt the suspension in '94 and it surpasses that by a long mile. I wish you guys could test drive it to get a full appreciation for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted September 30, 2012 The saga continues. After having some over heating problems this summer I decided to install a 3 row radiator. While I was at it I replaced the thermostat...again. I also added concours hoses (I like to look original where I can, even with a restomod). While at it I damaged one of my transmission cooling lines so I needed to replace them. They needed it anyways since they had been cut and spliced previously. Had a heck of a time getting the lines to fit and had to order a set directly from Classic Tube. They worked much better. Also added new valve covers and air cleaner. Took the car out yesterday and really enjoyed the drive. I'm just slightly off on my alignment with a slight drift, but I can fix that. Next project is going to be new rear leafs and bilstein shocks. Sometime in the next year I'll complete the engine conversion from 2V to 4V along with the heads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted September 30, 2012 looking good!!:thumbup1: i like the black out... The saga continues. After having some over heating problems this summer I decided to install a 3 row radiator. While I was at it I replaced the thermostat...again. I also added concours hoses (I like to look original where I can, even with a restomod). While at it I damaged one of my transmission cooling lines so I needed to replace them. They needed it anyways since they had been cut and spliced previously. Had a heck of a time getting the lines to fit and had to order a set directly from Classic Tube. They worked much better. Also added new valve covers and air cleaner. Took the car out yesterday and really enjoyed the drive. I'm just slightly off on my alignment with a slight drift, but I can fix that. Next project is going to be new rear leafs and bilstein shocks. Sometime in the next year I'll complete the engine conversion from 2V to 4V along with the heads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted October 1, 2012 Looks good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted October 1, 2012 Next project is going to be new rear leafs and bilstein shocks. You can't go wrong there! I just swapped to Maier Racing 200lb rear leafs, and Bilstein shocks. Wow, what a difference!! I can't wait to get the Panhard bar on next. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted March 7, 2013 Look what showed up today! Can't wait! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted March 7, 2013 Hello rangerdoc, good to hear that the coilover setup works. Iam going to buy street or tracks stage 4 suspension setup for my mach1. Iam not yet sold on coilover setup, and issues with australian ADR compliance with coilover setup. Can you give me pros and cons of coil over setup compared to street or tracks stage 4 setup, cheers Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted March 18, 2013 Hello rangerdoc, good to hear that the coilover setup works. Iam going to buy street or tracks stage 4 suspension setup for my mach1. Iam not yet sold on coilover setup, and issues with australian ADR compliance with coilover setup. Can you give me pros and cons of coil over setup compared to street or tracks stage 4 setup, cheers Jason. I was looking at doing that setup as well, but after talking to them I decided to spend the little extra for the coilover. The geometry is just better and the car handles great. Of course, it will with the stage 4 as well. I suppose it is a preference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted March 18, 2013 Look at what I'm finally doing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 19, 2013 rangerdoc - how goes it.. any updates.. having too much fun driving to update i bet! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted October 19, 2013 I wish I had good news for you. I'm playing over in the desert for a while so nothing exciting for the car. I tried to get things going before I left but ran into problems. I had to install the intake twice and kept getting coolant in the oil. I did all the things you're supposed to do with sealing it and stuff but for some reason couldn't get it right. I'm going to just take it to a shop when I get home and have them do it, plus I'll put the AFR heads on that I want. On top of that I cracked the base of the carb, so had to get a new one. Then when I finally got the carb all setup the car smoked which led me to take the intake off again. I just ran out of time and basically gave up when I saw the traces of coolant. Not enough to damage things and I did change the oil. I was very frustrated to leave the car like that. I have new leaf springs and bilsteins waiting for the rear as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 19, 2013 ah cool.. no worries ... first .. THANK YOU for your service to our country! that's what these old cars are about... working on them and enjoying the results in the end... i dont think any of the parts i purchase that stated "made for 1969 Mustang" etc fit without a little bit of work ... take care and im sure you'll have some fun installing parts when you get back.. I wish I had good news for you. I'm playing over in the desert for a while so nothing exciting for the car. I tried to get things going before I left but ran into problems. I had to install the intake twice and kept getting coolant in the oil. I did all the things you're supposed to do with sealing it and stuff but for some reason couldn't get it right. I'm going to just take it to a shop when I get home and have them do it, plus I'll put the AFR heads on that I want. On top of that I cracked the base of the carb, so had to get a new one. Then when I finally got the carb all setup the car smoked which led me to take the intake off again. I just ran out of time and basically gave up when I saw the traces of coolant. Not enough to damage things and I did change the oil. I was very frustrated to leave the car like that. I have new leaf springs and bilsteins waiting for the rear as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted May 14, 2014 I decided to finally finish my stereo system. I had prewired the car when I did the interior. I have the center speaker split off to also power the front side speakers. I bought the upgraded dual-voice center speaker and I have always been pleased with it. With the front speakers so low in the foot well it is nice to have the center speaker to hear the vocals clearly. The front speaker pods fit nicely, but the driver's side prevents use of the e-brake. I'm glad I have an automatic so use of the e-brake isn't as necessary as it could be with a manual. The rear speakers fit just fine as well and and sound fine. I can tell they want a bit more power to them, but I don't plan on having things turned up that much anyways. I'm including pictures of the speakers so you all can see the model numbers and get these off amazon or someplace else. The fronts are 4" and are fairly shallow, which is why I went with them. The rears are the same ones NPD advertises fit with the package tray pods, but they charge over $100 more for the same speakers than what I paid for them on amazon. I think I spent about $75 for both sets of speakers and as a prime member shipping was free. Do you have a link? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted May 14, 2014 Post #316 has the pictures. You can look for that model number on amazon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted August 30, 2014 Welp, been away for awhile and since I got back I've been spending most of my time and money on my 2011 pony. Though I did get the new intake/carb setup and running. Today I finished installing new leaf springs and Bilstein shocks to match the front. For several years I've noticed the left rear was lower than the right rear. When I took off the old springs I was happy to see that the new springs should fix the problem (see picture). But, much to my disappointment the left now sits exactly level with the front and the right rear is now an inch higher than the other 3 corners. I didn't take measurements before so I can't verify exactly how it sat before today (though I seem to remember that it really was the left that was low). I do have adjustable shackles, so I could raise the left rear a bit, but then the setup wouldn't match in the back. Anyone have any ideas on lowering the right down an inch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rangerdoc 22 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 Took the car for a spin today. With the new carb and intake I can get the tires to bark when it shifts gears (C4). I also added a couple alignment shims under the engine mounts. For some reason, the fan was hitting the bottom of the shroud ever since I had the engine out for paint. Tried all sorts of things and couldn't figure it out. This seems to be the fix. Unfortunately, I still can't get the car to sit even in the back. I have a thread over at VMF about, but it looks like the frame is tweaked just enough so the right rear sits 3/4" higher than the left rear. I was really hoping the old leaf springs were the problem. So my next task is to figure out why I get what I feel like is binding when I turn the steering wheel to the left. The car drives fine, but something just doesn't "feel" right. Is there any way to check for binding in the steering linkage? This is all started after I put in the Borgeson system. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 is the surface of whatever your car is sitting on level? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites