69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buck, do I correctly recall your being somewhat less than 100% pleased with your FPA headers ? They look nice, and the fit seems good, everything nicely up and tucked out of the way. Was/is there something you didn't like about them ? I'd be pretty happy if my pipes fit that well, and I'm going to be in the market for new headers....and if their 302 header is as good as the 351W set that you have, maybe the FPAs are a good choice. Have you used other headers you liked better ? LSG

 

are you talking about these FPA headers?

 

this was just the start of the cutting...

 

 

i had to remove about 3/4 of two primary tubes. big PITA to do when everything is welded. you have to find places to cut that will allow a person to make a weld around the hole tube (obstacles like neighboring tubes).

 

Most of these problems were due to the TFS high port heads. However one of the tubes was hitting the oil pan/block rail big time. Given the angles of the heads and there new location, there is no way i can blame the high ports on that. that were also hitting a the stock safety plate. that could partially be blamed on the heads, but with a stock type head it would have bee really close. the clutch linkage was even in the ball park. i'll blame that on the heads. they also hit interfered with the pitman arm. TFS heads? Maybe.

 

i have a stock exhaust bolt pattern. the dimples on the tubes for clearance are way more than necessary.

 

i'm definitely not sold on the ball/socket collector.

 

the clearance to the body is good. it sits about 1/4" (little less) from the passenger side shock tower and steering box. (i've dropped the motor 1/2").

 

Ground clearance is almost too good.

 

the welding quality is ok to good.

 

Stan (person you talk to at FPA) is a flake. The first time i called he thought it would be marginal. Several months passed (financial reasons due to a tree falling on the house) and i called back again to order the headers. He thought sure they would fit no problem even with the raised port heads. I wasn't convinced and ordered them uncoated.

 

I've read their coatings haven't held up all that well.

 

This was my experience on a windsor/hi port combo.

 

are there better headers? i don't know. my expectations of finding anything that didn't require modifications were slim to none.

 

 

on another note, i posted awhile back on a thread you started about 3" tailpipes (no response...). Did you get those installed? I've read of people claiming to install 3" but have never seen actual evidence.

[Angel 24]

Buckeye, I thought the engine shop dyno tuned the engine? Why the need to adjust timing?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Buckeye, I thought the engine shop dyno tuned the engine? Why the need to adjust timing?

 

they pulled it at WOT from 3400 rpm and up which is much different than idling in a car with an air cleaner, etc. temps change and so does the need to adjust idle mixture. i have no idea what fuel was used. the dyno doesn't indicate anything about any other modes of operation.

 

based on the data it seemed to like anywhere from 28 to 32 degrees total.

 

i'm adding more initial timing, keeping the total in the above neighborhood.

Edited November 9, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[LSG 15]

Buck, well that clears THAT up, the pipes look wonderful only because of your normal tender loving care and attention to detail. I must have missed where you were fighting them. Maybe back when I was teasing you about not having a vacuum advance......I'll slowly continue my replacement header search with your experience in mind. LSG

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

LSG,

 

any response to my question?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i was shocked my first choice for plates was available (better be a space after 69 when i get them). unfortunately the backdrop on ohio plates is horrible right now.

 

 

[Junior2561 10]

I hate the current look for Ohio Plates....the Red and Blue ones were nice but the farm sceen one is a joke.

 

I'm surprised you didn't go with Historical plates?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I hate the current look for Ohio Plates....the Red and Blue ones were nice but the farm sceen one is a joke.

 

I'm surprised you didn't go with Historical plates?

 

1. first choice was 69 mach. all other options get a little too full or unreadable. i didn't even fill out the second or third choices on the form. my friend has something like 70RTSE6PK and almost nobody will understand. the one drawback was the horrible background. i'm banking on ohio changing in a few years. i wanted to get the Ohio State background but they won't mix it with custom letters.

 

2. second choice was a restored set of 69 plates. the problem is they are blue letters on a white background. pretty boring and reminds me of the 70's and 80's ohio plates.

 

3. third choice was historical.

[LSG 15]

Buck, no 3 inch tailpipes for me at this time. I was hoping to buy a set from a fellow who removed his, froma 69 stang, because he thought them too loud. he installed 2&1/2s instead. I missed out due to lack of cash in hand at the time he had them for sale, and someone else bought them. Another fellow also had 3 inchers for sale, they didn't fit his watts link setup in the back, but he had sold them by the time i PM'd him. The first fellow is one of ours here on this site, and he said the fit was good on the magnaflow 3s and he liked the product enough that when he changed out to 2 & 1/2s, he again went magnaflow. Currently I'm saving my pennies toward a magnaflow complete 3 inch setup. I'd love to buy just the tailpipes, but magna won't sell them that way. If you're listening magnaflow, YOU SUCK for not being willing to sell tailpipes only. I'm currently working about ~ half time right now, maybe less, so cash for the ride is kinda thin. LSG

[prayers1 153]

69 mach 408w build-

Did you see the new NPD catalog, it has a real nice picture of a Red 69 mach 1. Every time I see a Red Mustang, I think of yours.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

69 mach 408w build-

Did you see the new NPD catalog, it has a real nice picture of a Red 69 mach 1. Every time I see a Red Mustang, I think of yours.

 

i did see that. looks like a nice car. even better is the fact the last three catalogs from them have had 69/70 cars on the cover!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

reverse lights, side marker lights, parking lights and brake lights are all functioning.

 

i had painted the inside of the tail light buckets gloss white. i don't really know if it made any difference.

 

 

 

i've been working on the headliner. so far about 4 hours. most of it's now glued. i'll let it dry for a day and come back and pull the corners and glue those tomorrow night. i really wouldn't want to install one with all the glass in. doesn't seem to be too difficult though. i haven't needed to use any heat yet. it's probably been around 60 degrees in the garage for the last few days.

 

 

[Junior2561 10]

Headlight looks nice and tight. Is it brand new?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

headliner is new. they are pretty cheap.

[prayers1 153]

Not to be funny, but do you have the license plate light.

 

Your brake lights look nice and bright or maybe it's the way the camera captured it. Mine are rather dull, did you use the stock bulbs. If not, what type are you using or do you know of a brighter replacement bulb.

 

Not to get off topic, but what bulbs are you using in your cluster gauge. I would like mine to be brighter. I have good ground, new bulbs and a new curcuit board and regulator. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks! John.

Edited November 18, 2011 by prayers1

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Not to be funny, but do you have the license plate light.

 

Your brake lights look nice and bright or maybe it's the way the camera captured it. Mine are rather dull, did you use the stock bulbs. If not, what type are you using or do you know of a brighter replacement bulb.

 

Not to get off topic, but what bulbs are you using in your cluster gauge. I would like mine to be brighter. I have good ground, new bulbs and a new curcuit board and regulator. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks! John.

 

i don't have the license plate light yet. i believe it mounts to the bumper and i don't know what i'm doing with the bumper yet.

 

i'm using the 1157 ST (Sylvania Silverstar) which produces whiter light for the tail lights.

 

i don't have the instrument clusters together yet. i was planing on using the LED's for that.

[prayers1 153]

What LED number would you be using for the dash cluster. Would the LED's produce too much heat?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

What LED number would you be using for the dash cluster. Would the LED's produce too much heat?

 

sorry, haven't researched it enough...

 

LED's produce almost no heat compared to a normal bulb.

 

if in your research you find something, let me know.

[Blue08 10]

http://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/ Found this kit awhile back, haven't ordered it yet due to spending on other, more important things like brakes and a new battery. But it seems really convenient to just swap them over and not have to mess with anything else. I'll be getting the stock "coke bottle green" color one. Believe it was the "extreme series"

[prayers1 153]

Came across a webpage superbrightleds.com they had some helpful information about conversions to LEDS. One thing I didn't know, is that LED's are not as bright as incandescent bulbs.

I'll be folllowing your progress to see what you've come up with.

 

Just caught Blue08's post- Now I'm confussed.

Edited November 19, 2011 by prayers1
Post came before mine.

[Angel 24]

Any LED that replaces a 161,163,168,194 style bulb will work in the cluster. You can get a pack of 20 LEDs in a 194 size for like $5 on ebay. They come from china but they work. I have about 60 LEDs just collecting dust because I ordered a 20 pack set from 3 different sellers and I didn't like the color of them. Im looking for a specific white to use in the cluster since I was going to be removing the filters. If I was gonna leave the filters, then they would work just fine.

 

The light from an LED is directional. Thats why they dont illuminate their surroundings as well as incandescent bulbs. And for that reason, the only bulbs on my car that aren't LED are the headlights and the back up lamps. Since I need those to see far away at night. However, if you look directly at an LED, they are brighter than incandescent bulbs. For that reason, ALL other bulbs have been replaced with LEDs. Brake, turn signal, side marker lamp, etc. They work great since these bulbs only need to be SEEN. They produce practically no heat, they require less power to run, and they won't break very easily. Unlike incandescent bulbs, they have a polarity though. So if you plug one into a socket and it doesn't light up, just take it out, rotate the bulb 180 degrees, and put it back in.

[Pyetime 10]

BuckeyeDemon can I ask you a favor when you get a chance do you happen to have a pic that shows how your tach is mounted?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

blue08,

 

that looks like a nice option. i was under the impression the dimmer didn't work with led's and that site claims they do (i wonder how well it dims though).

 

thanks.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

do you happen to have a pic that shows how your tach is mounted?

 

i would like to remove the vibration ring on the tach, rework the mount and make my own damper. forward work though.

 

i drilled holes and welded nuts into the A pillar.

 

 

[Pyetime 10]

Your the man, thanks for sharing!