69 mach 408w build

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

took a couple minutes to throw this together to provide an idea of the dimensions.

 

[stangnet33 88]

Do you like the style of something like this? Found these for around $70.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Do you like the style of something like this? Found these for around $70.

 

 

that's not bad looking. how large is it and would it need to be mounted vertical (looks like the lid might be the breather)?

 

this is the one i was originally trying to use but couldn't find a way to make it work.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

finished it up. like always some epoxy followed by some flattened urethane.

 

 

 

 

 

[Cornerstone 15]

Verrrry niiiiice , very nice. You MUST be dreaming of cruising in that fine mo-sheen. I'd be chompin at the bit bigtime!:drool:

[Powershift 19]

Now THAT is low profile!!

 

Nice work!!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Verrrry niiiiice , very nice. You MUST be dreaming of cruising in that fine mo-sheen. I'd be chompin at the bit bigtime!:drool:

 

it's about 15 degrees out with a sheet of ice, so the motivation drops off a bit during the january and february time frame (for me anyways).

 

it's the time of year when ohio 100% sucks and places like Texas sound so much better!

[Junior2561 10]

That looks great, and its tucked away nicely.

 

x2 on Ohio blowing...I just came in from 45 minutes of shoveling.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

That looks great, and its tucked away nicely.

 

x2 on Ohio blowing...I just came in from 45 minutes of shoveling.

 

as you know, i grew up where your at. i talk to my dad once a week and it seems to average about 6 degrees colder there with a whole lot more snow compared to southern ohio. i've shoveled part of my driveway twice in the last 5 years :)

[Mike65 475]

as you know, i grew up where your at. i talk to my dad once a week and it seems to average about 6 degrees colder there with a whole lot more snow compared to southern ohio. i've shoveled part of my driveway twice in the last 5 years :)

 

The difference in temp & snow is one of the reasons my wife & I moved BACK to NJ but this time to south Jersey from Rochester, NY where we lived for 8 years. The difference in temp from Rochester to here in south Jersey today is about 15 degrees. Today is the first measureable snow fall here, 1".

[Junior2561 10]

as you know, i grew up where your at. i talk to my dad once a week and it seems to average about 6 degrees colder there with a whole lot more snow compared to southern ohio. i've shoveled part of my driveway twice in the last 5 years :)

Its unreal how big of a shift there is around here. From where you are compared to where i am and even from here to the east side of the Cleveland area.

Funny thing is, winter time makes me feel not as frustrated with the rate of my progress. Summer time is when I get the hunger to get a car out and rip on it.

[stangnet33 88]

sorry I didn't see your response to my pic. I was also looking at the ones you tried, they can't lay sideways either ? I like how yours is turning out anyways. :thumbup1:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I was also looking at the ones you tried, they can't lay sideways either?

 

the one i have if laid sideways would just drop out all the fluid from the breather tube unless i connected something to it. it's also pretty long at over 13", so i'm not sure where i would have mounted it sideways.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i'm almost finished cleaning up all the stainless. i still need to find a set of drip rail moldings though.

 

over the last couple of winters i've been fixing up the stainless trim myself. it's pretty boring which is why i only do a couple pieces every winter.

 

everything has been recovered from the original car except the drip rail moldings and the large passenger weatherstrip retainer which was too far gone.

 

why ford didn't make all the trim out of stainless, i don't know. seems like most of the aluminum based trim was eaten by salt after the anodization was chipped.

 

anyways, i tried to take some pics showing removing some basic dings, but the gloss, lighting and zoom were playing tricks on the camera.

 

i'm just using a basic bench grinder. i couldn't justify the money for a long arbored buffer for what i do. this one does have a speed adjust (generally set at half throttle). i buffed all the stainless on my old falcon (it had a whole lot more than this car) using a full speed bench grinder.

 

i start with a Sisal buffing wheel and Emery compound (clean off all residues, tars, etc before hand). at that point after a quick run with the Sisal wheel, it's easy to find the deeper scratches and dents. i rarely use a hammer for the dents and instead just push on the dents to get them up. i'll sand the scratches (and pushed dent areas) with whatever paper makes the job easiest. stepping up to around 320/400 before rebuffing. i've finished with finer paper, but the sisal wheel i believe is more course anyways.

 

after the scratches are all out and the piece looks consistent, i'll step up to a Spiral wheel with Stainless compound. This brings back the brightness. The last step is a Loose wheel and rouge compound. I really struggle to find the last step does much on the hard stainless.

 

leather gloves are a must. i have kicked pieces across the garage before and slipped and scratched the piece on the metal holding the wheel (then i have to almost start over on those scratched areas).

 

 

i also picked up some 3M Rust Fighter 08891 to apply to the seam for the doors.

 

3M Rust Fighter 08891

 

It looks almost like the stuff i found on the inner quarters of my 93 escort. It's runny but is pretty tacky. they sell it in an aerosol can but i already had a sound deadener gun so i used the bulk container. for the door skin seam on the inside, i really think the aerosol option would have made application easier.

 

i sprayed the seam in the doors a couple of weeks ago and it settled down in the seam so i applied a little more today.

 

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

Are you talking about the trim that clips on the outside edge of the drip rails. If so I have 2 sets from a coupe. I am not sure if they interchange but if they do I would give you a good deal on one of the sets.

 

i'm almost finished cleaning up all the stainless. i still need to find a set of drip rail moldings though.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Are you talking about the trim that clips on the outside edge of the drip rails. If so I have 2 sets from a coupe. I am not sure if they interchange but if they do I would give you a good deal on one of the sets.

 

yep. coupes are different. i just dug out my originals, and it looks like i had been working on them. i think they can be salvaged with some more work. in my head i was thinking they were in worse condition.

 

thanks though.

[Jayru 17]

i'm almost finished cleaning up all the stainless. i still need to find a set of drip rail moldings though.

 

over the last couple of winters i've been fixing up the stainless trim myself. it's pretty boring which is why i only do a couple pieces every winter.

 

everything has been recovered from the original car except the drip rail moldings and the large passenger weatherstrip retainer which was too far gone.

 

why ford didn't make all the trim out of stainless, i don't know. seems like most of the aluminum based trim was eaten by salt after the anodization was chipped.

 

anyways, i tried to take some pics showing removing some basic dings, but the gloss, lighting and zoom were playing tricks on the camera.

 

i'm just using a basic bench grinder. i couldn't justify the money for a long arbored buffer for what i do. this one does have a speed adjust (generally set at half throttle). i buffed all the stainless on my old falcon (it had a whole lot more than this car) using a full speed bench grinder.

 

i start with a Sisal buffing wheel and Emery compound (clean off all residues, tars, etc before hand). at that point after a quick run with the Sisal wheel, it's easy to find the deeper scratches and dents. i rarely use a hammer for the dents and instead just push on the dents to get them up. i'll sand the scratches (and pushed dent areas) with whatever paper makes the job easiest. stepping up to around 320/400 before rebuffing. i've finished with finer paper, but the sisal wheel i believe is more course anyways.

 

after the scratches are all out and the piece looks consistent, i'll step up to a Spiral wheel with Stainless compound. This brings back the brightness. The last step is a Loose wheel and rouge compound. I really struggle to find the last step does much on the hard stainless.

 

leather gloves are a must. i have kicked pieces across the garage before and slipped and scratched the piece on the metal holding the wheel (then i have to almost start over on those scratched areas).

 

i also picked up some 3M Rust Fighter 08891 to apply to the seam for the doors.

 

3M Rust Fighter 08891

 

It looks almost like the stuff i found on the inner quarters of my 93 escort. It's runny but is pretty tacky. they sell it in an aerosol can but i already had a sound deadener gun so i used the bulk container. for the door skin seam on the inside, i really think the aerosol option would have made application easier.

 

i sprayed the seam in the doors a couple of weeks ago and it settled down in the seam so i applied a little more today.

 

 

Two questions for you. What exactly is the rust fighter? Is it a rust converting seam sealer of sorts?

 

Also, i tried to buff out a spot on my stainless hood trim molding once (using methods like you described), and i was shocked when a little fine sanding (2000 grit) seemed to scratch away the color and expose a white/grey substrate (almost like an aluminum base) that would not buff out! It was permanently scratched from that point on. Have you ever had this happen? I've been paranoid to ever try and touch the moldings again!

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

What exactly is the rust fighter? Is it a rust converting seam sealer of sorts?

 

it's like an undercoating. it doesn't convert rust. there is a link to the datasheet in the post. it will give a better insight into it's purpose.

 

i tried to buff out a spot on my stainless hood trim molding once (using methods like you described), and i was shocked when a little fine sanding (2000 grit) seemed to scratch away the color and expose a white/grey substrate (almost like an aluminum base) that would not buff out! It was permanently scratched from that point on. Have you ever had this happen? I've been paranoid to ever try and touch the moldings again!

 

the hood molding is aluminum (not stainless) with an anodizing coating. you scratched that coating.

 

to restore that particular piece (hood molding, lower grill moding, trim around grill, lower rocker moldings (69's)), you need to remove the anodizing. then polish and have it re-anodized. if ford didn't put that coating on the aluminum it would quickly oxidize.

[stangnet33 88]

Going a little ways back in the thread you had your steering wheel done by Rimblow Buddy. Just wondering what the turn around time was and the cost. It looks like your's turned out well. Would you do it again ?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Going a little ways back in the thread you had your steering wheel done by Rimblow Buddy. Just wondering what the turn around time was and the cost. It looks like your's turned out well. Would you do it again ?

 

i'm struggling to remember. it seems like it was on the order of a month and $500. That included a new switch. It seems like they were quick to respond with a quote and lead time.

 

They did a good job. I wouldn't consider it a new steering wheel. Mine was trashed.

 

I would use them again (not really any other option, maybe with the exception of a new repop). I personally feel the steering wheel sets the tone of the interior, so anything beyond factory looks out of place to me.

 

I will say, I am concerned about it recracking. There isn't any evidence of there being an issue yet, but with the manual steering i feel like the steering wheel may take a little more abuse.

[69RavenConv 286]

I will say, I am concerned about it recracking. There isn't any evidence of there being an issue yet, but with the manual steering i feel like the steering wheel may take a little more abuse.

 

I've always thought it was UV and temperature extremes that were the biggest enemies, although I could be wrong. Of course, you probably shouldn't use the wheel as a grab bar to pull yourself in and out of the seat or bash on it in a road rage either.:hammer:

[stangnet33 88]

Yes I think with a deluxe interior the steering wheel is one of the top highlights. I've come across a couple other companies that re-fab steering wheels but going by photos it seems that Rimblow Buddies really stand out with their recreating the wood grain look.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I've always thought it was UV and temperature extremes that were the biggest enemies

 

i hope you're right. the princess will probably spend the majority of life in the climate controlled garage.

[bnickel 10,004]

i've never really been much of a fan of the stock classic mustang steering wheels, especially when other classic cars got such cool looking wheels....mostly GM cars of course.....go figure. so I always change out my stock wheel for something else, lately it's been mustang II type sport steering wheels. I have one in the stang now and I have a leather wrapped mid 70's cougar XR7 leather wrapped version for the 69 cougar.

 

 

however I was also able to get my hands on an original FIV secura steering wheel, just like you could out of the many shelby catalogs back in the 60's and it even matches the factory woodgrain in the cougar pretty well too. I won't be using the fake woodgrain though. I'm working on converting it over to real wood veneer througout, in fact that's what i've been working on for the last couple of weeks. it's coming along rather nicely too and the stain i'm using matches the steering wheel almost perfectly. i'm using a mahogany veneer that i got at Lowe's and one of it's recommnded uses is actually dashboards so i thought tht was pretty cool. i'll throw some pics up once i get it all done, hopefully it turns out as sweet in real life as it does in my head....LOL

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i've received most of the glass. I posted measurements of the glass thickness in another thread. but to summarize, the repop glass is about 5-10 mils thicker than my original. The windwhield is about 15 mils thinner than measurements provide by other 69stang members. recall the glass was provided by ECS.

 

they did a nice job on the etchings. they were all located at the positions (and side of the glass) i had specified along with the codes i had specified.

 

 

 

 

i've also been working on getting the fold down seat and the associated panels installed (before popping in the rear glass).

 

this is the repop dynacorn trap door. it looks like a nice piece (i don't have an original to compare it too). i stripped it down and found more brown stuff that appears to be rust. this makes for the second piece of steel that's been EDP coated with rust (i think) underneath. i sprayed black epoxy and topcoated with the dark charcoal metallic i've been using.

 

 

 

 

 

 

i also have a repop fold down assembly. there are several things i don't like about this thing. one bracket was really bent. i'll probably reuse the original hinge bracket from my non-fold down assembly. also i didn't like the way these brackets were attached (don't know exactly how the factory had them) but i could feel the fasteners trying to poke thru the carpet. also the carpet didn't match in pattern or color between the panels. so i removed the carpet and adhesive so i can put my own carpet on (and paint the panels the charcoal metallic).

 

 

 

here is a closeup of the carpet (after i removed it) from two of the panels.

 

there was lots of fraying as well. this carpet looked pretty beat up for a new part shipped directly from dynacorn!

 

 

removing the old glue. DX330 lifts it relatively easily.

 

 

and for those who say the original interior was black, here are some more example of mine where it's clearly not black. you can easily see the metallic.

 

this is the backside of the hinge bracket (wouldn't have seen daylight since it was new).

 

 

and this is the underside of the panel for my original non-folddown. same dark charcoal metallic color. compare that to the black coating on the dynacorn metal.

 

 

here is a comparison to the dark charcoal metallic i've been spraying.