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70 Mach 1 - I'm stuck on Heater Core

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Hello All,

Well I finally did it. I pulled the dash pad and started to work at removing the heater box to get at the core.

 

What I did so far.

1. - Disconnect Battery

2. - Unplugged the 2 lines to the heater box

3. - Removed glovebox and glovebox door.

4. - I disconnected the heater hoses

Pulled dash pad

5. - Disconnected the cables that operate the heater doors

6. -Removed 5 nuts on firewall

7. - Removed 1 bolt attaching the box inside

8. - Removed the little courtesy light

9. - Took Bolts out (3) that hold the dash assembly on the pass side.

 

After removing a lot of stuff, I was able to pull the box inward so the screws come back in from the firewall. But I can't get any further. I'm stuck.

 

I am enclosing a picture and have 4 areas of concern.

 

Area A - This is like a hard plastic vent that runs to the defrosters.

It is attached with 3 bolts at the top. I can only get to 2 of the bolts.

The 3rd bolt is behind a bracket for the instrument panel. Not sure if it will help to remove this bracket.

 

Area X - Behind the radio there is another hard plastic tube that sends hot air to the driver and pass side feet area. - - This piece seems like it is part of the reason I can't pull the box a little more forward

 

Does anyone KNow how this "tube" is attached to the box and is it possible to disconnect it.

 

Area #3 - It seems as though the box may be hanging on the carpet a little.

Does this mean I will need to pull the kick panels and center console?

 

I had thought about trying to replace the core right where it is, but I know this is not a great way to do it. I bought new gaskets and seals and the core. It looks like it would be pretty easy to pop the clips on the top and bottom of the core box but the upper right side, I can't really see.

 

I looked at trying to pull the instrument cluster so i could pull the rest of the metal dash forward but even that is a problem.

I cant't pull the instrument cluster forward because of a "plastic collar" on the steering column. I am not sure how that comes off but it look slike you gotta pull the steering wheel. I would hate to do that.

 

It just seems like this job is turning out to be much much more than I bargained for. I did pull bolt "C" in an attempt to move the metal dash support forward.

 

I am thinking I am in way over my head. I am nervous I'll forget how everything goes.

 

Could someone please offer some suggestions.

When I pull the heater box inward, once the bolts are through the firewall, shouldn't the box drop downward.

 

It was freezing cold so I stopped work but I would really like to figure how to get this done. I thought I could handle it but not real sure now.

 

 

Thanks and sorry for the long post....... Print Dad

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I wish I could beam to Boston and give you a couple hours of help, Jim. Don't know if I have any answers for you, but I sure do sympathize. That "collar" you mention...I'm wondering if that's just the little plastic/rubber collar that goes around the steering column to give a "finished" appearance. If so, it just unhooks from the bottom and comes off easy as pie. It's probably something else. I think I could be helpful if one of my coupe's was apart like they used to be for months. Now that everything is back together, it's hard to recall how everything goes.

 

Hoping somebody smart happens along here quick.

 

Tom

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I can't remember having trouble with the vent ducts but I do remember the steel lower dash had to be loosend and the passenger side was completely undone. The heater assembly was a tight fit and I flexed the steel dash to remove it.

Don't get worried about rembering how it goes back together as it is really quite simple. Just document your removal steps and reverse the proceedure. Photos are a great help.

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The vent that gives the driver air at the floorboards is attached to the heater box by two plastic fasteners. I can't remember how I separated it though. You should be able to disconnect the defrost vent from the heater box and leave it attached to the dash. I do recommend loosening the bolts in the lower metal dash to swing it out some. You may have to remove the right side bolts completely if push comes to shove. Just be thankful you aren't working on an A/C car, you'd be in for a real treat :biggrin:

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I have tackled this heater core a couple times and it looks like you are right where you want to be. Your next step would be to undo the clips on the heater core box (see pic) I believe there is about 8 of them and the front cover off the box can slip out. The heater core is right behind it and will move out a bit to get to the hose clamps. (Not much room for clamps behind the core but it is possible) The core just rest in the box on some foam seals.

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Hello All,

I just re-checked the new "Shop Manual" and it appears that I need to pull the

plastic push rivets as RacerX and a few others indicate.

 

I am going to try and remove the push rivets and I think that I will have enough room to

pull the box. I have removed the bolts that hold the lower dash on the pass side and it pulls inward a bit. I will try perhaps later today, (depends on the wife's plans).. LOL

 

To stang69sk, I was thinking of trying to split the case right where it is. I can see the top and bottom clips fine but the far right side may be an issue.

 

I would love to be able to do this right and pull the whole box apart and change all the gaskets.

 

I appreciate all the responses and ideas. I'm gonna get this done for sure.

 

Once again as in the past, I appreciate the help offered on the forum and hope I

can help someone in the future.

 

 

Print Dad

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I wish I could beam to Boston and give you a couple hours of help, Jim. Don't know if I have any answers for you, but I sure do sympathize. That "collar" you mention...I'm wondering if that's just the little plastic/rubber collar that goes around the steering column to give a "finished" appearance. If so, it just unhooks from the bottom and comes off easy as pie. It's probably something else. I think I could be helpful if one of my coupe's was apart like they used to be for months. Now that everything is back together, it's hard to recall how everything goes.

 

Hoping somebody smart happens along here quick.

 

Tom

 

Hello Tom.

Too damn cold to hang around here in the Boston area (LOL).

 

I know how it feels to not be able to help. I have been trying to help the guy

in Virginnia with his 70 convertible.

 

As far as the plastic collar...it looks like it has to slide. I don't think it will split. It has a split in it, but it is real hard plastic and I am pretty certain it would break if I try to open it enough to remove. It is my hope that I don't have to touch it. I think if I can get the distributtion duct out of the way, I should be fine.

I know you would be able to fix this real quick and I just wish I were closer.

 

I'll get this fixed and post back. These cars are great but they do present challenges. I guess that builds character. LOL MY wife thinks I 'm a character now.

 

Be well...be warm and keep wrenching....... Print DAd . Jim

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Jim,

 

If you are planning on changing all of the gaskets and seals (with a kit) you will need to pull the whole thing out. Because you have to glue the gaskets to the flappers after you clean them up and its just easier to put back together that way. And you can spray some paint on it too to make it fresh. I also had my entire dash out when I did this so it was way easier.

 

I remember removing the defroster vent before taking it out though.

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Hello All,

I managed to get the vent duct that goes to the floor out.

I am still having a little trouble with the defroster vent.

 

The box is so loose but I can't seem to manage to pull it out.

I have the bolts through the firewall and I would say it came inward about

1.5 inches but it won't drop. Looking a little closer, I think I may have to pull back the rug which of course involves removing the kick panel, the door rocker panel.

 

i gave up for today and may take a few days away from the car.

I am getting frustrated that this seems like it should not be this tough.

 

Perhaps a new fresh attempt will give me better results. I am toying with the

idea of spliting the case in the car. I really don't think I want to do this but i can't understand what else could be holding this in.

 

I will post a follow up soon. For now....she sleeps and I'll keep thinking about the issue.

 

Thanks and Happy New Year to all. Jim P DAD

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I have mine all the way out and laying in the basement. I put in a new core a while ago. I ran down and snapped some pics and am loading up some that may help. When I pulled mine out it all came out in one piece and it has a lot of clips all around it holding the front and the back together.

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Hello 70mstang,

Thanks for the great pictures. I had no idea of what this would look like.

It looks pretty simple but I still can't get it out.

I know it is all loose but I must be missing something.

I plan to try Friday if my wife gives the OK.

 

She kind gets upset when I work on the car.

 

I was wondering....if I ever get this damn thing out.......

I had planned to attach the heater hoses before re-install

but I am not sure if that will work or not.

 

I guess I should just focus on trying to get it out.

 

My next thought may be to cut the defroster vent and hope I can get a

replacement. The reason I think I gotta cut it is because there are

3 screws that attach it to the top of the metal dash. I can't get to the one closest to the

driver side because the nut is up behind the instrument panel bracket.

 

Lastly...when I pull the box, how far should it have to pull inward before it will drop.

 

 

Thanks again for the great pictures........ Happy New Year.... Print Dad Jim

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dont cut the defroster vent! It just slips on the box end... once the box is loose I think it is possible to slip it off without removing it. If you cant get it off, how would you replace it anyway?

 

I dont recall having too hard of a time with these but I usually take the dash out first.

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Remove the instrument panel pad. Remove the glove compartment liner and door. Remove the air distribution duct from the heater. Disconnect the control cables from the heater assembly. Disconnect the wires from the blower motor resister. Remove thr right courtesy light located on the underside of the instrument panel if so equipped. Remove the heater support to dash panel attaching screw. Disconnect the vacuum hoses and remove the power vent air duct. Remove the blower motor ground wire grounding screw in the engine compartment. Disconnect the heater hoses, working in the engine compartment remove the heater assembly retaining nuts. Remove the instrument panel to cowel panel attaching screws. Remove the instrument panel right side brace. Pull the heater assembly and the right side of the instrument panel rearward and remove the heater assembly.

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This was from my 69 shop manuel. I used a while back for my ac unit but maybe it will help you in your 70. I will try to scan this section if you need me too. Just let me know. Will be working this weekend . I know i had somewhat of the same problem but i think it was some bracket and the drain hose holding mine tight and it would not drop. I did not have to cut vent unscrewed support bracket that attached defroster vent to the middle air duct (the large one in the middle) happy new year too all.

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Hello Klevor and the others,

First - I removed everything except the instrument cluster but it is loose.

Today I pulled the clips that hold the box. I got to the core OK and actually it didn't look bad but I have a new one.

 

A few friends stopped by to help. They think I should just replace the core and put it all back together with new gaskets. The problem is I won't be able to change the gasket near the motor or the large gasket near the air inlet (cowl).

I may try tomorrow to pull the unit out again.

 

Klevor, I have a shop manual (from Santa) for the 70 so thanks you don't need to scan, but I appreciate the offer.

 

 

Now I have several questions related to this job.

1. Should I just put in the new core in the car and try to get a clip on the pass side even though it is tight?

2. - Inside the heater box is a "door assembly" - mine was pretty rusty. I cleaned it up real well and hit it with rust convertor etc... - - but why is it rusted? Is it just from age or could there be a problem up near the cowl? - The area under and around the box looks great no rust.

3. - Just want to be sure I run the heater hoses correct. I am pretty certain the top hose runs to the front of the water pump and the lower hose runs behind the water pump. This is a 351 Clev so it is a dry intake.

 

4. - Will I have to burp the hoses when I change this or will the air come out on it's own. I don't want to create a vapor lock situation.?

 

6. - Is there a cure for this thing called old age that is creeping up on me real fast????

As witnessed by the fact I can't count to 5 without forgetting where i was.. LOL

 

Happy New Year and thanks for all the help and hanging with me. it sure is nice to know I can ask questions from some real great people.

 

Hey Pakrat- - where you been? Print Dad

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