StephenC 10 Report post Posted December 21, 2011 Congratulations on your first kid! Car looks good its coming along nicely! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted December 22, 2011 Congratulations!! I know lots of us have had to put the projects on hold to take care of little ones =0) The engine looks purdy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted December 22, 2011 Thanks fellas! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fastwayfirebird400 14 Report post Posted December 24, 2011 Congrats on the little one ! You said this car was going to be driven alot, did the machine shop install hardened valve seats in the heads? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted December 24, 2011 I dont know. I didnt tell them to. The paperwork said they did a valve job, installed new seals. Is this going to be a problem? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) Hardened exhaust seats on your C8OE-N heads are nearly impossible. There just isn't enough material under the seat to support a new hardened seat once the heads are cut. As long as your existing seats are not badly recessed it will not be a problem. I know as I have done a ton of research on this topic. I was forced to abandon the hardened seats on my heads too. As long as you keep temps in check you will be just fine. You can also run a lead substitute or octane booster to help protect your cast iron seats. If you hear "pinging" under hard acceleration, back out of the throttle and add an octane booster. That will help keep combustion chamber temps under control. I plan on doing this with my car. What casting code is on your block? Does it have the "C" scratch on the back in the bell housing area? Just curious. Bruce Edited December 24, 2011 by LindenBruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks to my "new" friend LindenBruce...we got my CJ put together over the Holiday's. He supplied me with the rockerarms and pushrods. Thanks Bruce!! (P.S.C8ME & Yes it has the C-scratched in the back) Attached are some pics of the motor and one with my Dad putting on the rocker arms for me. Next step: Getting the Toploader rebuilt. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted January 3, 2012 You are welcome dude!! Looking good. My block is the older "A" scratch PI block. The original engine and trans disappeared long before I got the car. To bad too. Is your intake the C6AE or the C7AE? Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
50dan 25 Report post Posted January 3, 2012 Very cool that you are building this thing to your liking and plan to drive it too! Keep us posted how things go. What wheels/tires you plan to setup on it for DD duties? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted January 3, 2012 Intake is C7AE. Thanks 50dan. The plan is to go with magnums. Prob go with a bigger tire in the back. I have seen a lot of tire combos on here. Prob go with one of those. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SunnDogg 18 Report post Posted January 3, 2012 I recently rebuilt mine and found it to be pretty straight forward. I picked up a rebuild kit from Mark Williams (a search should bring up others who've had good experiences) and it came with an instructional CD that walks you through it. I eneded up needing a couple of new gears and he worked with me on those and talked me through a couple steps. http://www.toploaderheaven.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 46 Report post Posted January 3, 2012 I second toploaderheaven.com (Mark Hammons). I just finished rebuilding mine last week. Very straightforward, and pretty good .pdf instructions. I had no problems taking mine apart or putting it back together, aside from trying to find a pair of snap ring pliers that worked :D I've also ordered a few parts from David Kee (http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/ ) and he's a toploader god as well. I have heard nothing but good reviews about his kit too. That said, I can't make any comments first hand about the instructions -- I went with toploaderheaven as I was sold on all the step-by-step pictures that were included in the CD. ps. Your engine looks great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 It has been a while since I have posted an update. We finally got the CJ in the car this weekend. It went in (not without a fight) headers and all. This is a VERY tight fit!!!! Here are some pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hollywoodknight69 14 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 It has been a while since I have posted an update.We finally got the CJ in the car this weekend. It went in (not without a fight) headers and all. This is a VERY tight fit!!!! Here are some pictures. That engine looks great. I can't beleive it installed without any problems, great job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks! It was a pain in the ____! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 7, 2012 Can't believe you got it in like that with the headers, well done!!! How you did it though has me stumped, mine was no way going to come out with the headers on. I'm not even going to attempt again with the Hookers, I've been told FPA's slip in easy so am going to get them. 5 SweellTrex, SextKecy, unlinihada and 2 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted May 8, 2012 Impressive installing with trans and both long tubes for sure. Looks like some other cool projects in that shop too! more pics! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted May 8, 2012 We jacked the car up in the back to the point the nose almost touched the ground. Then we tilted the engine so the tail-shaft was about to touch the ground as well. Then we slipped it in. There is only about a 1/4" of clearance from the headers to the shock towers. That part was easy. The problems came when we tried to put the motor mount bolts through. It was not lining up. We could get one side in. then the other would be off. The issue was with the headers on you could not move the block up in the back and left to right on the sides. We ended up getting it to line up on one side and then we had to open the motor mount hole up slightly. Took us about 6 hours. The next issue will be if I ever need to change the header gaskets. I will have to pull the motor to get them off. I chose the Hookers Super Comps because my dad had them sitting in the garage and gave them to me. Saved me $800. I think in the future I will try the FPA's or buy Stock replacements. I am pleased with result. The restoration shop seems to think It will be up and running in a few weeks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted May 8, 2012 Of all the things that first come to mind to have troubles with slipping it in there, the mount bolts are not one of them. It is a scary thought though, about having to replace a header gasket! Again, well done!! Can't wait to see it come together even more! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 9, 2012 how about a pic of that 64 fairlane? is that yours? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted May 9, 2012 The Fairlane is not my car. It is another car at the restoration shop. I think its the owners sons. Very cool car! I will be back down at the shop and see if I can get a few pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted June 17, 2012 How goes the project dude? I installed my engine/trans/headers several months ago too. I have the FPA's and while they clear everywhere once the assembly is in, the whole install was a real PITA!!! I had to drop my idler arm and pitman arm. The collector tubes clear all around with no problems. Actually, if FPA had moved the collectors in toward the transmission about half an inch things would have been easier going in. There is now way to change the header gaskets without doing a partial engine pull. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted June 18, 2012 The project is getting ready to come home : ( Motor and Transmission are in car. All new brake lines, brakes, fuel lines and wire harness have been installed. Have not started it yet. It just needs a couple of odds and ends to make that happen. My wallet wont allow any more work in the shop at this time. I will save up a little more and hit it again in a few months. I may be able to do a lot of work on the car from my garage? Anyway, you are correct...I will have to pull the motor to change the header gaskets. You have pictures or a thread I can check out? Donny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted June 19, 2012 You know, I never got around to doing a thread. I have a ton of pics. I think I will update my album here so all can see. Yeah, my wallet is dry right now too. All I need is a fan shroud, radiator, and battery and the beast will breath fire yet again. I just got an alternator off of ebay the other day and got it rebuilt/detailed and bolted on. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69R-CODE 25 Report post Posted July 9, 2012 Just to update everyone. Car is back home. I still have not started the engine. All I need to do is hook up a battery and the associated wires. Hope to have that done by the end of the month. Here is a picture of the motor as of 7-7-12. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites