Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

squidz

My Current Project

Recommended Posts

Here's what I have...

 

1970 coupe

302 c4, Acapulco blue

 

Here are the parts...

 

holly 670cfm street avenger carb

scat 347 stroker kit

srp forged pistons

edelbrock rpm air gap

patriot aluminum sbf heads

comp cam

1.6 roller rockers

msd dis, coil, 6a box

Holly 110gph mech pump

3 core rad

 

4 speed toploader

hurst comp shifter

centerforce dual friction

 

8" rear diff

detroit locker

3.8 motive rear gear

 

Hooker Comp headers

Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust

 

 

kyb gas-a-just at all corners

600# 1" lowering springs front

1 1/8" sway bar front

1" sway bar rear

global west 5 leaf 1" lowering springs

1" lowering blocks

race shackles and eurathane bushings

 

steel brake lines

 

17x8 cragars front 245/45 bfg kdw

17x9 cragars rear 275/40 bfg kdw

 

car is in shop right now torque boxes, front rails and shock towers being done

engine is being built

will keep you guys posted

input on the build?

 

oops sorry mod could you move this thread to the current projects directory. thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like a fun project my only input would be the 8" rear, if the engine is making as power as i think it will that 8" may not live long, especially if you run a good sticky tire or slicks. if you don't already have them i would at least get some 31 spline axles made for it and you can use the 31 spline gears from a 9" detroit locker in the 8" unit, that will help it live a little longer but you may still need to upgrade to a 9" at some point in the future depending on how well it hooks up. i'd also consider having the axle tubes welded solid to the center section of the housing as well, that and the 31 spline axles wil make that 8" about as bulletproof as it will ever get.

 

everything else sounds good

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I thought the 8" would be an issue too.... but someone I talked to about that very issue told me that its usually the diff the blows up under torque in the rear end and not the case... The detroit locker i'm using should hold the torque load. Is this true?? If so then my locker should be strong enough.. The 9" is essentially a larger version of the 8 and the internals on the stock diff is same I thought? Input guys??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the pinion gear I have is a motive gear... these are all hardened gears right? So technically... with the setup my 8" should be fairly bulletproof??? I'm not an expert so any input is great! thanks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no idea if they hardened or not but i would ASSume they'd have to be in that application. i'd still seriously consider upgrading to the 31 spline axles though. you can get them from Moser for around $150-200 IIRC and then the side gears for the locker shouldn't be more than $50-75 i wouldn't think

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All cancer has been removed,

 

Both front frame rails replaced

Both front torque boxes replaced

Both rear frame rails replaced

both rear quarters, inners, outers replaced

Front floor plans replaced

both from shock towers replaced

Engine built and installed

Tranny installed

Wilwood discs at all corners

Converted power steering to manual

Global west frame connectors installed

Traction bars installed

New dash installed

Interior being redyed from blue to black

All sheetmetal done, doing bondo

Paint to be done.....

 

Thinking of going with the either the viper blue or satin black maybe tangerine... what u guys think? suggestions on color?

 

 

btw.... I have lots of oem parts available... enquire

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 70 coupe is finally done. Went with a Shelby blue

More pics to come... I thought the car sat a lil high so lowering it some more

Also decided to redo the whole front suspension. Went with the tcp uca with drop bracket and ccp mini sub frame kit. The car is in the shop right now because the patriot heads i had crapped out within the first 500miles of driving. 10 of the 16 valve guides broke so waiting for patriot to repair them....

 

 

....I think I might actually be able to make a coupe pretty mean looking, something fastbacks make easy work of

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The car now handles like its on rails and I don't even have roller perches. The CPP kit and the uca are great and I definitely recommend them. There is virtually no bumpsteer and excellent road feel. Here are some pics I took today

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got any pics of the CPP front lower kit installed on your car? i've only seen pics of one other car and they weren't all that great because of all the oil and grease and stuff, not that's necessarily a bad thing since that car is unrestored and a driver/beater/sem-race car until he can afford to do the car right....just like mine and almost everyone's were at some point and many still are. my cougar is still greasy, oily and nasty too.

 

in fact i sometimes wish my car was still all oily and greasy underneath.....wouldn't be quite as afraid to drive it then

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a pic taken with my phone, not a great pic...

 

got any pics of the CPP front lower kit installed on your car? i've only seen pics of one other car and they weren't all that great because of all the oil and grease and stuff, not that's necessarily a bad thing since that car is unrestored and a driver/beater/sem-race car until he can afford to do the car right....just like mine and almost everyone's were at some point and many still are. my cougar is still greasy, oily and nasty too.

 

in fact i sometimes wish my car was still all oily and greasy underneath.....wouldn't be quite as afraid to drive it then

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks good. i really want to ride in a CPP equipped car and a TCP or GW equipped car to see for myself what the differences are. though that will likely never happen, i can still wish......

 

i really think i'm going to end up going with something that is kind of a combo of the CPP lower kit, a TCP coilover front and Opentracker roller parts. the idea is to use the ORP upper and lower full roller arms, a pair of TCP or TCP style coilovers and a Heidts MII strut rod conversion kit that bolts to the LCA but instead of being a normal straight strut rod it is curved like the CPP lower A-arms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
looks good. i really want to ride in a CPP equipped car and a TCP or GW equipped car to see for myself what the differences are. though that will likely never happen, i can still wish......

 

i really think i'm going to end up going with something that is kind of a combo of the CPP lower kit, a TCP coilover front and Opentracker roller parts. the idea is to use the ORP upper and lower full roller arms, a pair of TCP or TCP style coilovers and a Heidts MII strut rod conversion kit that bolts to the LCA but instead of being a normal straight strut rod it is curved like the CPP lower A-arms.

 

Well I got the cpp to get rid of the strut rods and have a lower a arm. Almost all road race cars use this type of setup with upper and lower a arms. I got the tcp because they come dropped so i don't have to drill my shock towers. It also gives me full adjustability and the option to upgrade to the coilover later on when i have more money to play with. This setup works well for me. I'm gonna hold off on the roller perches cuz when i go coilovers they are rollerized anyways. Yes the handling is night and day. It handles much like a modern car now if not better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well I got the cpp to get rid of the strut rods and have a lower a arm. Almost all road race cars use this type of setup with upper and lower a arms. I got the tcp because they come dropped so i don't have to drill my shock towers. It also gives me full adjustability and the option to upgrade to the coilover later on when i have more money to play with. This setup works well for me. I'm gonna hold off on the roller perches cuz when i go coilovers they are rollerized anyways. Yes the handling is night and day. It handles much like a modern car now if not better.

 

 

it doesn't necessarily have to be a one piece LCA, it's not the flex in the stock style LCA and strut rod units that is the problem, the problem is from the different geometries of the stock LCA and strut rod, they aren't perpindicular to each other. the Heidts MII strut rod i'm talking about corrects the dissimilar geometry between the LCA and strut rod and makes the pivot points perpindicular to each other, in effect making a 2 piece version of the CPP lower A-arm.

 

prd_lg_115.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Got new wheels today... Coys c55.. The cragars look nice but too damn heavy at 42lbs a piece wheel only. The coys weigh 21lbs. What do you guys think?

 

Hi,

 

Beautiful wheels! What sizes/offsets are they? Tires also.....

 

Thanks,

 

MJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what color code is your blue - i want to paint my car the same blue!! with a flat black top....

 

thanks for your time... great ride!!!:tongue_smilie: wheels look great .. shows of those brakes!!

 

My 70 coupe is finally done. Went with a Shelby blue

More pics to come... I thought the car sat a lil high so lowering it some more

Also decided to redo the whole front suspension. Went with the tcp uca with drop bracket and ccp mini sub frame kit. The car is in the shop right now because the patriot heads i had crapped out within the first 500miles of driving. 10 of the 16 valve guides broke so waiting for patriot to repair them....

 

 

....I think I might actually be able to make a coupe pretty mean looking, something fastbacks make easy work of

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...