DarkBuddha

Thanks for posting the pics Mike. I was thinking of getting one of the fox body console Hammer shifters (especially when I can get one for $115 brand new). The stock fox body shifter is very very similar to our shifters in design and dimensions, so I was going to see if it could fit the stock '70 Mach console. The only issue is that I don't like that the Hammer requires ratcheting to all positions (vs the Starshifter, which allows shifting directly to any position from park and then ratcheting to any other position).

Pics MikeStang?

lol... I just had to clean out my PM boxes and found PMs with you Pak about parting out the ps system in your car. Apparently I wanted to buy some of the stuff to do some development work with. My how things don't really change... I was still going to do that stuff until I finally just bought a Borgeson conversion.

I got my parts from Kris today. Exactly as represented and described. Thanks Kris.

If the rear is giving you the most problems, focus your attention there. Is it particularly stiff? The old conventional wisdom was to use a stiff damper with a soft spring and a soft damper with a stiff spring. Stiff springs with stiff dampers will ALWAYS suck, just as soft springs with soft dampers always sucks. So if the rear feels a bit harsh and hard, maybe try something cheap like a set of relatively soft Monroe Matic-plus ($12/each) or KYB Excel G shocks ($20/each). I ran Monroe Matic-plus shocks on my '70 with those clamped coils and I can recommend them for ride quality.

That's a really excellent video! Thanks for posting it.

I think he was being sarcastic... He probably needed to delete them entirely to get the car that low. I have admit I'm kinda bummed to hear the ride is that harsh, 'cause it sure does look good and I'd love to be able to go that low.

So I did buy the Borgeson upgrade this weekend, so I'm committed now. I've been planning to call Maier for a while, and then they invited me to via their fb page when I asked a couple questions. I'll definitely be sure to ask about the integrated box setup on Ol' Blue.

We should start a "Old Timers Drive It In 2015" club... I'm sure there's more than a few of us that should join.

Looks like an awesome project, but I wish I could see it better... pics are so small.

Good point about the bump stops... I know when I just had spring clamps taking 1.5 coils worth out of my stock springs (I know, I know... not the best way to lower a car, but it totally worked for a really really long time) that I had to trim the bump stops to stop from hitting them on full compression in hard cornering. I also agree that it's difficult to avoid a harsh(er) ride, especially once you start modifying them for more suspension performance. Big sway bars, higher rate springs, firmer dampers, poly bushings, low profile tires, less suspension travel, etc., all contribute. If you're willing to compromise here and there, you can probably find a setup that is tolerable and still handles decently. Let how you drive the car decide how it should be set up. If it's a cruiser and stance matters a lot, go with softer (stock?) spring rates and maybe drop spindles instead of high rate cut coils. Back down on the sway bar sizing a bit. Switch to a tire with a bit more sidewall and tires noted for their ride quality versus outright handling.

So I did finally click my way into buying everything I was thinking of and saved about right around $175 thanks to the holiday weekend's discounts. Was tempted to buy more, but was able to resist. Anyway, hope everyone scores something cool this weekend.

I had some coin burning a whole in my pocket so I went on a spending spree... spent more than I intended, but a lot less than I could've. Got Summit to price match on a Borgeson conversion and Global West strut rods, and I bought a set of drum brake spindles from a member here for a big brake conversion. Relatively small but darned expensive pieces to a big puzzle.

Sorry... Guess I missed that in reading the description.

My suggestion is to give the springs time (and mileage) to settle in a bit. I've found that leaf springs tend to relax a bit. Worst case scenario, you add lowering blocks (cheap!) to get the ride height you want.

By my estimation, you're going at lightning speed! I've been at it for over 13 years now and still ain't even close to be done. I'll be happy just to have it on the road again in 2015 after nearly 20 years of it being off the road altogether.

Where are you located? I might be interested in a couple things, but shipping could kill it.

Yeah... I'd say just replace them entirely. It'll a bit more involved, but do it once, do it right.

Thought this would be helpful and fun. I figured we could share any info on places having sales, good deals, etc., and share your planned purchases in case someone knows where to get a better deal. I know I'm looking at spending a bit on stuff between now and Monday, so I'm open to any suggestions that might save me some coin. Stuff I'm eyeing: Drum spindles Borgeson 999024 integrated power steering conversion, $737 at CJ Pony Parts Global West adjustable strut rods, $369 at Speedway Reproduction '70 tail light bezels, $112/pair at YearOne.com

You may be able to fix them up with a bit of hammering and welding (and frame shop time?), but given that replacement shock towers are now a click away and not terribly expensive, I vote for replacing them. I definitely also agree with adding the readily available reinforcement kit since it's also just a click away. It won't be cheap, but you won't ever have to worry about it again. BTW, alternatively, if you don't care about originality, or are planning on upgrading the suspension and stuff, and you're going to cut out the towers anyway, maybe look into one of the bolt-in front suspension kits that include rack&pinion and arms and brake upgrades, etc. One last thing, the shock tower reinforcement kit that everyone sells is the same as is specified in the Boss 302 racing chassis preparation manual. Using it as a guide, I made my own abreviated version with some steel plate from Lowes, a cut-off wheel, a claw hammer, and a bench vise. Not easy, but very CHEAP and totally functional. You can find pics here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showpost.php?p=129946&postcount=28

PM sent. Thanks.

I keep coming and going... so many projects, so little time. On top of the cars, I've been focused on organizing, promoting, and fostering the local car scene a bit and putting on meets, and dyno days, and cruises, a monthly cars & coffee, and a weekend long charity car show and autocross, and etc. etc. etc. I need to buckle down and focus on one car at a time, and fewer events. I'd love to get the Mustang just back on the road and driving so I can upgrade as I enjoy it. And I want to get the XR4TI back into autocross & rallycross shape. And I want to do a few upgrades to the Focus ST. And I want to get started on restomodding the hand-me-down 280zx I was gifted by my father-in-law. Sigh...

After sleeping on it, I've reconsidered. Even with return to center issues, I think the Borgeson unit is better than investing more in the stock system. Plus, everyone I talked to said it was a huge improvement in control and road feel. I think that is enough alone to make it worthwhile. Cavboy78, it's a good question. One of them was definitely on the original pump. I will definitely do a Saginaw when I do mine.

After sleeping on it, I've reconsidered. Even with return to center issues, I think the Borgeson unit is better than investing more in the stock system. Plus, everyone I talked to said it was a huge improvement in control and road feel. I think that is enough alone to make it worthwhile. Cavboy78, it's a good question. One of them was definitely on the original pump. I will definitely do a Saginaw when I do mine.

I'm still super dubious of the self-centering of the Borgeson setup... talked to 2 guys with it at a show today. Both said it won't self center, even with 4+ degrees of caster. So at this point, I think I'm going to try to make the most of the stock steering for a while... install some poly bushings in the ram, go with a roller idler arm, etc. If that works well, I'll probably have the stock box rebuilt with 12:1 gears. If it continues to leak like a sieve, I'll probably go with the Borgeson and live with the lack of self-center.