CG in TX

I have heard from numerous sources those Hookers and FPA headers are about the only headers that fit the FE big blocks in a Mustang. I bought FPA's for mine but the car is not ready to install the engine. I was told the easy way to install the headers is with the engine pulled. Bolt on the headers, line the engine bay with a tarp or other protective material and slide the engine in with the headers bolted on. It will barely rub going in but will go in. I will find out in a month or so. Here is a link from a guy who replaced is old worn out hookers with new FPA's without pulling the engine: http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1107151030/Finished+installing+FPA's+on+my+Mach+(long+read)

I have the sway bar you are looking for. It is a Global West big block sway bar and is listed on Ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130356871546&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT If you do not wish to bid on it or if it does not sell, contact me and we can work out a good price since I do not need it.

What size wheel do you intend to use? How tall to you want your sidewall? You will want to keep your tire diameter 27" or less. On my restomod, I am going to use 20"x10" rear wheels with 6 3/4" back spacing for a stock rear end. 6 3/4" backspacing may be pushing it but I can always use a spacer. 6 1/2 may not be enough with a 10" wheel. I am going with a 295/30/20 tire with some minor fine tuning of the wheel house. My friend has a 285 tire with a stock wheel house.

I purchased the TMI sport seats. They turned out very nice but expensive.

Sorry, I see you want 9's on the front. 9's may be tight but backspacing should be around 5.25. 8's fit good on the front with 4.75 BS. Again, try before you buy.

10's will fit. The backspacing should be around 6.25". All cars seem to be slightly different so try them on before buying.

I am purchasing custom wheels 20"x10" for my 1969 Fastback restomod (stock rear end) and am not sure of the correct backspacing. The car is naked on the rotisserie which rules out measuring. The wheel company says 5 3/4" backspacing but measuring using a 1970 Fastback looks more like 6" to 6 1/4". Anyone have ideas?

The Marti Report for my car shows it is a plain fastback (not a Mach I or GT). I am thinking of restomod now (instead of building a clone) using an air suspension system. Does anyone out there have any experience with the air suspension systems? Air Ride Technologies seems to be one of the better systems but the price - yikes! Airbagit is less than half the price but is an unknown to me and appears to be more work for install. Any advice?

I bought the March surpintine kit. Very nice!

Figures they start making this stuff 8 months after I paid big bucks to have mine re-chromed by vacuum plating.

I just ordered one myself and it will arrive soon. I will keep you posted.

CV Vacuum Platers restores these dash parts to make them look brand new. I had them restore my deluxe interior instrument pieces and they look better than they ever did new. It is expensive but looks impressive. They have a website if you want to look at their stuff. Do a google search with their name.

It is time to pick out wheels for the project and I am going with the magnum 500. I like the original look unless it can be improved on and still look original but better. The 14's are too small and the 15's look better. I have not seen 17" magnums on a 69 or 70. Do the 17's look too big? I do not like the big wheel look unless it is on a restomod. This car will have the original look to it. Thanks

It has gotten to where I feel uncomfortable when not wearing a seat belt with shoulder harness when driving. Has anyone found a good three point belt system the looks and works good with these cars?

I am looking to install a 4 wheel disc brake kit in my 69 project that will work with 15" wheels. Any suggestions for a good kit that works good and not too expensive?

I received the Marti Report for my car and it appears it is not a Mach 1 as advertised when I purchased it. If I am correct a Mach 1 would show 63C on the data plate. The Marti Report on mine shows 63A. The car came to me without a data plate. We are just now stripping away the numerous layers of paint and the bottom coat appears to have the GT stripe along the bottom. Where on the Marti Report would it indicate the car was a GT? The car is an S code.

OK it's time to order wheels. I am going with magnum 500's and wondering if the aluminum wheels are worth the extra cost. I can buy 3 sets of steel wheels for the price of 1 set of aluminum wheels.

Originality is not really an issue - good drivability is. The car is an S code that came with a 351 not running, a project car. I am replacing the engine with the big block it should have and have to buy a transmission anyway. Performance Automatic builds a AOD 4 speed automatic that fits the FE for a few hundred $$ more than a C4 or C6.

I am considering changing my 3 speed automatic for a 4 speed automatic (C4 to AOD) to keep good low end but also have lower rpm at highway speeds. Has anyone out there done this and was it worth the $$$ and effort?

I am looking for a aluminum radiator for a high horsepower 428. I heard the Griffin 1 1/2" tube radiators are the ones to buy. Anyone here use these or recommend another brand? The engine goes on the dyno next week and I expect around 700 horses.

I am looking for a aluminum radiator for a high horsepower 428. I heard the Griffin 1 1/2" tube radiators are the ones to buy. Anyone here use these or recommend another brand? The engine goes on the dyno next week and I expect around 700 horses.

I am going with a C4 rebuilt to handle up to 800 HP. I found a bellhousing from Bowler transmissions to fit the 428 FE block. It's only money, right?

I am looking for a 428 bellhousing to match c6 tansmission (or c4 - hard to find except for racing crowd).

Do you still have these, I may be interested. CG

Thank you but I am looking a perfect one. My goal is for this project is a show car.